Originally Posted by rvguy1966
I would like to hear the un biased version of the actual differences.
Maybe you can form your own opinion and put together an unbiased chart. Here is a partial of how I formed my own opinion.
I went through two Hensleys before owning a ProPride (now, two ProPrides)...because the Hensley was the bomb in it's day...which has come and gone. With exception of some subtle improvements on the ProPride, they both perform the same basic function...but, for me, that is where the similarities end. Aside from the subtle improvements, construction is the key for me.
While running a ProPride and a Hensley hitch, I reconditioned the Hensley.
...and it looked presentable...but after working with the ProPride, no matter how pretty...in the back of my mind, I knew it was substandard by comparison.
Aside from the bearing fits, the Hensley looks like something a welder could build on the back of his welding truck with some thin, low-yield plate and a big side-grinder. Construction is crude at best and the plate does not have good wear characteristics where the stiff-arms pin up. I, personally, don't like the ball welded to the hitch either.
The ProPride is constructed using more machined components and therefore, more accurately built, as well as, more compact. The only thin plate on the ProPride is a bolt-on cover. Where the Hensley stiff-arms pin to the hitch head, ProPride uses a yoke system which is equipped with bronze bushings to handle movement.
The stinger receiving box for the ProPride is precision built to mate up to the centering ramp of the stinger and has a robust stiffener around the opening.
The Hensley stinger receiving box...to be blunt, it is scabbed-together, make-shift affair and it's shape changes with time and use as the centering ramp for the stinger distorts the receiving box. Gimpy piece-milled stiffener around the opening, as well.
The ProPride Stinger is not only adjustable but it is build with a uniform, machined centering ramp.
....and it can be dialed in as close as you want. The only way you can dial in a stinger for a HA hitch is to order a replacement from ProPride, of all people.
The Hensley stinger...well...you fill in the blanks. It is in a fixed attitude for better or worse. I had two Hensley hitches rigged up on two trailers to tow with two TVs. Hensley couldn't provide the drop necessary for my 2013 3/4-ton Suburban (w/ tow package). They suggested that I cut my coupler off my trailer and weld a new one on above the A-frame along with some other hair-brained ideas such as flipping my axles over to make the trailer taller (I kid you not) and adding a second receiver on my Suburban. Base on my phone calls, I am totally convinced that HA has zero engineering base to draw on. When I asked specific, technical questions, all I got was a "canned", pre-rehearsed answers that were not even relevant to the question I asked. I'll say it to you and I'll say it to them...what a bunch of worms. During the heat of the moment when I indicated that I was through with HA hitches, they were very interested in buying my used, worn hitches to recondition and sell to some unsuspecting souls which I told them I would throw them off the creek bridge before I excepted their offer. Wonder how many miles where already on your new hitch when you bought it?
In the long run, it worked out fine as the POS Hensley stingers would not interchange between Hensley hitches...an unforgivable screw-up in the manufacturing community (of which I am a part of). Is it any wonder why their stingers wedge and stick? I got rid of one Hensley hitch on a trailer I recently sold and the second one is being used as a door-stop in my shop.
Hensley uses a gimpy spring-loaded dog-point to retain the WD bars in the hitch head whereas PP uses a fool-proof solid disc system. If the HA dog-points aren't to the perfect depth, the WD bar hits the end of the threads ruining the bar retainer. Problem is, you don't know if your retainer is ruined until the WD bar falls out at speed. The PP retainer is installed with the disc in a milled slot in the side of the bolt-in bushing. It's in no bind and couldn't get loose if it wanted to. The ProPride bushings are more robust and a better fit in the head as compared to the HA. Hensley sells a bag of spare parts to keep their hitch going...with PP, there is no such bag required.
The ProPride WD bar tensioner jacks have a right-angle drive on top which makes access easier but more importantly, it prevents the WD bar tension from changing due to vibration like what occurs on the HA (the reason HA doesn't recommend lubing the threads of the jack).
As mentioned in post above, the ProPride requires no drilling of the A-frame. I like the links from the jack towers to the WD bars better on the PP as the thin-walled tubing of the HA tends to wear and elongate on the HA.
So why would anyone pay more for the HA?.....my guess is that they were just uninformed at the time of purchase and needed RVGuy to put together a chart. This is no where near a difficult decision once you know what you are dealing with.
I sincerely do believe that HA was a stand-up company in its day and if they had worked on a continual improvement process, they would be marketing ProPride's P3 hitch today. I get the impression that they are hanging on based on their former position in the industry. I'm not a gambling man but I would wager that their days are numbered.
No, I'm not affiliated with Sean. He stole my girlfriend and I'm still pissed about that. I'm thinking about painting my ProPride hitches chipped-up, pumpkin-orange and post them all over the internet just to get back at him.