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Old 04-09-2013, 07:45 PM   #1
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Hensley question/ issue ?

So we purchased our Airstream last fall & it came equipped with a Hensley (bonus?) So far I'd say I'm happy with it, but, I have a question for those with more experience under their belts.
Granted, we've only had the opporutunity to haul the Airstream a few times over the last 6 months due to the winter weather, but it seems like the hitch is always "cocked" to the right. (curbside) So this seems odd to me. Should'nt it be centered? Especially when going straight down the road? I can lift the little pivoting bar inside the hitch & it allows the hitch to "pivot" from side to side and even when I center everything & hook-up, it seems like when I stop the hitch is to one side. It does'nt pull to either side while towing, in fact, it tows Awesome! My concern is somethings wrong, or is this "normal" ?
Any feedback would be great!
Todd.
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:16 PM   #2
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That is common as when you bring your rig to a stop, you very often cock the wheel as you come to a stop.

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Old 04-09-2013, 08:31 PM   #3
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This is addressed on the HAHA users thread. It is long, but highly useful as a source of information. I'd transfer this thread to that thread (as others might benefit, even though it is addressed; ask the moderators).

Getting the hitch centered might require some background work/verification first:

1] TT axle age and condition. There are threads here on how to check. Age takes a toll.

2] TT axle alignment. Ask your local RV dealer which big truck retailer they send problematic alignment issues to. Have the alignment verified.

3] TT brake & bearing adjustment. No drag from either. Verify this, don't just assume it.

4] TT & TV tire load. Use Chapter Four of this Tire Service .pdf on RV's to properly rule out tire related adjustments (loads and pressures).

TT tires are always to be at sidewall maximum pressure and TV tires are to be Load vs. Pressure "inside" the vehicle manufacturer guidelines. The heaviest tire on an axle determines pressure for both tires. Etc.

5] The hitch. Are all pieces as new? No worn brackets? Etc. See the HAHA guide and manufacturer guide. Taking apart one of these hitches isn't by any means a hard job (just a heavy sonuva . . ) and this confirmation is vital. One never knows the stresses to which a used hitch has been through. Wearing pieces need replacement and a "kit" of commonly-worn bits is available from HENSLEY (and just good to own).

6] As in the HAHA thread, using a certified, segmented drive-on weight scale to adjust the weight distribution is a requirement for best performance. Several passes across the scale can do it (see specifics of how to). The "CAT SCALE" thread is the primer.

The above should be gotten out of the way. Set. Verified.

Finally, adjusting the HAHA so that the TT follows the TV can usually be done by adjusting the length of the strut arms. This is the way I do mine:

- Loosen strut arms

- At the lowest rolling speed possible, put TV in Neutral and use TT brakes to stop the combination. Set TV parking brake without ever using TV service brake.

- From front of TV look underneath and back to TT. Does it appear to be "centered"?

- If so, set struts to "tight" even if they are slightly different in length afterwards.

Pull forward and achieve a light speed (10-mph) and come to stop using service brakes. Check "centeredness" again.

If not as wanted, start over.

NOTE: One must have installed towing mirrors that allow visual convergence at about 200' to the rear of the combination vehicle. Equally, from both sides of vehicle. Use this as a check to hitch adjustment. Many factory towing mirrors or add-ons aren't up to the job . . be certain.

The right mirrors will show up the last bit of "centering" adjustment wanted.

And, as Moosetag indicates, the TT may be a little off after a full stop. Learning to adjust the TT brake controller is useful here. It may still be on one side or the other but one wants it to be the very last moment of TT movement as one comes to a full stop.

Good luck

.
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:40 PM   #4
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I found that a small wireless camera is great for observing the centering of the hitch head while driving down the road. Assuming all mechanical issues are OK, per above, adjusting the struts will center everything.
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:05 PM   #5
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The hitch head, by design, shifts to one side or the other depending on how you brake and stop (i.e. on a curve).

Having said that - a hitch head that is not mounted exactly square to the trailer frame can also cause it to track to one side when travelling on a straight and level stretch of highway.

The Hensley manual states the struts "are correctly adjusted when the Upper Unit is held firmly in a position perpendicular to the centerline of the trailer". This is easier said than done but the manual does go on to qualify that "it doesn't have to be absolutely perfect!".

To ensure that the hitch head tracks on centre when travelling on a straight piece of highway we've developed our own little homegrown practice to fine-tune the strut adjustment. This is not in the manual - but is not hard to do.

Once the hitch is ready for its 1st of the year dry run one of my sons or a neighbour will ride in the back of the of the tow vehicle observing the behaviour of the hitch on a straight (and quiet) piece of road - advising whether the head is tracking on centre or not - and if - not which side it is tracking on and by how much (i.e. a little or a lot). The "adjustment" is to pull over to the side of the road and lengthen the appropriate strut by a 1/4 or 1/2 turn - then shortening the other strut by the same amount. The cycle of driving, observing and adjusting each strut is repeated until the hitch head is tracking on centre.



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Old 04-10-2013, 06:13 AM   #6
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OH!!!!! Mine has to be perfectly straight......but that's my problem.....anal retentive, you know.

I do think being centered does help eliminate the "Hensley Bump".
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:34 AM   #7
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Thank you Guys, Many things I did'nt even consider was the effect of the trailer brakes ( which is currently an "issue" being addressed. I also recall the previous owner telling me there was a rebuild kit in the Hensley bag. Maybe one week-end I'll devote to tackling that beast. It certianly looks like it could stand some TLC, but that in itself, is a whole different post. I will add however, just after we purchased, I contacted Hensley Mfg. to see about maybe sending our very dated looking unit in for maybe some sort of "rebuild" or "refab" service. Only to be told they offered no such service. Which surprised me, considering the cost of these units new. I guess I'll be the one updating the looks & performance of this little known "wonder", currently it looks like scrap metal attached to the front of my rig!
Thanks again everyone!
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:45 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by truxpin View Post
Thank you Guys, Many things I did'nt even consider was the effect of the trailer brakes ( which is currently an "issue" being addressed. I also recall the previous owner telling me there was a rebuild kit in the Hensley bag. Maybe one week-end I'll devote to tackling that beast. It certianly looks like it could stand some TLC, but that in itself, is a whole different post. I will add however, just after we purchased, I contacted Hensley Mfg. to see about maybe sending our very dated looking unit in for maybe some sort of "rebuild" or "refab" service. Only to be told they offered no such service. Which surprised me, considering the cost of these units new. I guess I'll be the one updating the looks & performance of this little known "wonder", currently it looks like scrap metal attached to the front of my rig!
Thanks again everyone!
Search the forum on hensley rebuilding, or hensley repainting, etc. Lots of info out there. It's not that difficult and we are always here to help.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:15 AM   #9
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Another thing that is easier to set up on the ProPride. Just set the yoke in the center using a tape measure, and you're done.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:32 AM   #10
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Another thing that is easier to set up on the ProPride. Just set the yoke in the center using a tape measure, and you're done.
I'm not too sure about that. I would not assume any trailer tongue or frame or axle(s) are exactly geometrically true. I found mine to be off in several dimensions by 1/16" to 3/16". These inaccuracies will make any measured hitch install off a little and result in the head running a bit off center while being pulled straight.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:50 AM   #11
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I've installed six ProPride hitches (actually one three times), and three more using the tape measure, and they all have run straight and true.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:19 AM   #12
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By camera while running down the road? That's what made me suspicious and caused me to measure the tongue accurately, independent of the hitch. Never felt anything and everything looked fine until I left my hitchin' camera on. It ran just a little off center (more of the "Humpy" part of the arm between the box and head showing on one side). Hitch is dimensionally correct....the A-frame and coupler attachment is not.
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:02 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truxpin View Post
So we purchased our Airstream last fall & it came equipped with a Hensley (bonus?) So far I'd say I'm happy with it, but, I have a question for those with more experience under their belts.
Granted, we've only had the opporutunity to haul the Airstream a few times over the last 6 months due to the winter weather, but it seems like the hitch is always "cocked" to the right. (curbside) So this seems odd to me. Should'nt it be centered? Especially when going straight down the road? I can lift the little pivoting bar inside the hitch & it allows the hitch to "pivot" from side to side and even when I center everything & hook-up, it seems like when I stop the hitch is to one side. It does'nt pull to either side while towing, in fact, it tows Awesome! My concern is somethings wrong, or is this "normal" ?
Any feedback would be great!
Todd.
The causative factor is imbalance between the braking of the tow vehicle ((TV) and the trailer. The brake controller must be set so that the trailer brakes apply slightly more braking action than the tow vehicle, thus holding the trailer back from the toe vehicle keeping the Hensley straight. When you get right down to it the tow vehicles brakes are working harder than the trailers to stop the forward motion.
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:36 PM   #14
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That is true Griff, and it goes without saying, but that is only one (perhaps the biggest) contributor.
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:20 PM   #15
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It is the simplest. With a helper in another vehicle one can test brake application settings to find brake lock on a variety of surfaces (which is important). The better the brake controller is what goes without saying (DIRECLINK or MAXBRAKE currently the top-of-the-heap).

Dry concrete, dry asphalt (then, wet) and broken surface (rough pavment, then dirt, then gravel) are "the test" of knowing how to set brake controller settings.

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Old 04-23-2013, 06:05 AM   #16
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Thumbs up

This photo was taken on the day I first installed the Hensley, I still use the HB method in lining up the hitch head.


Perpendicular good, vertical not so much, but DW has noted that fact for years.

Bob
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Old 04-29-2013, 03:45 PM   #17
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Another thing that is easier to set up on the ProPride. Just set the yoke in the center using a tape measure, and you're done.
For those pondering the purchase of an HaHa vs a P3 - this is a statement that I also believe 1000% and I'm moving onto my third trailer with a P3.
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:53 PM   #18
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Question Easy to set up...

Takes 40min every spring.....


Start to finish....



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Old 06-24-2013, 02:15 PM   #19
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Instead of starting a new thread I thought I would add on to the end of this one.

I have no experience with a Hensley, other than watching Hensley's videos and reading 2Airishuman's "Ultimate Hensley User's Guide" thread (for two days and still not finished). Having read and watch, I feel confident that I can hookup and adjust the torsion arms properly.

I'm considering a second hand 34' trailer that has a Hensley as part of the package. It comes with a 2" offset hitch bar. I have been swapping emails with one of the techs at Hensley trying to figure out what I need. He tells me I need a 6" offset hitch bar, instead of the 2". I do not want to purchase a 6" offset hitch bar prior to purchasing the trailer. But, I want to move the trailer immediately if I purchase it. So I have a small dilemma.

I am towing with a 2012 Chevy 2500. The hitch opening that measures 20" to the top while the truck is empty, loaded about 19". The top of the ball receiver on my 25' trailer measures about 18 3/4" empty and varies lower depending on load. I assume a 34' Airstream will vary similarly. I do not know if I should tow temporarily with the 2" offset hitch bar. Assuming the information I have is correct, the front of the trailer will be 3" to 4" high if I use the bar that comes with the trailer. If I purchase this 34'er I have to drive it 150 miles to get it home.


So, my questions are:
  1. Will I be able to tow it home SAFELY with the 2" offset hitch bar? If I do, will the rear trailer axel be overloaded enough to blow out the tires?
  2. Hensley users that are towing with a Chevy or GMC 2500 pickup, what offset/drop hitch bar are you using?
  3. When looking at a used Hensley, checking it for condition, what are the items I should be most concerned about.
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:41 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
Instead of starting a new thread I thought I would add on to the end of this one.

I have no experience with a Hensley, other than watching Hensley's videos and reading 2Airishuman's "Ultimate Hensley User's Guide" thread (for two days and still not finished). Having read and watch, I feel confident that I can hookup and adjust the torsion arms properly.

I'm considering a second hand 34' trailer that has a Hensley as part of the package. It comes with a 2" offset hitch bar. I have been swapping emails with one of the techs at Hensley trying to figure out what I need. He tells me I need a 6" offset hitch bar, instead of the 2". I do not want to purchase a 6" offset hitch bar prior to purchasing the trailer. But, I want to move the trailer immediately if I purchase it. So I have a small dilemma.

I am towing with a 2012 Chevy 2500. The hitch opening that measures 20" to the top while the truck is empty, loaded about 19". The top of the ball receiver on my 25' trailer measures about 18 3/4" empty and varies lower depending on load. I assume a 34' Airstream will vary similarly. I do not know if I should tow temporarily with the 2" offset hitch bar. Assuming the information I have is correct, the front of the trailer will be 3" to 4" high if I use the bar that comes with the trailer. If I purchase this 34'er I have to drive it 150 miles to get it home.


So, my questions are:
  1. Will I be able to tow it home SAFELY with the 2" offset hitch bar? If I do, will the rear trailer axel be overloaded enough to blow out the tires?
  2. Hensley users that are towing with a Chevy or GMC 2500 pickup, what offset/drop hitch bar are you using?
  3. When looking at a used Hensley, checking it for condition, what are the items I should be most concerned about.

What size wheels and tires on the 1012 Chevy. I have had my Hensley for over 10 years on my 1976 31' Sovereign and have changed trucks 3 times. My 2004 Chevy Suburban had smaller 15" or 16" wheels. and an after market receiver that bolted to the frame. I was able to use a 2" drop bar. My 2008 Chevy Suburban had the larger wheels, I think 20" and the receiver was built in to the Chevy frame and bumper. The 2" drop bar was not enough drop so I went with the 6" drop bar. and it worked perfectly. My 2012 Chevy Suburban has the same same wheels and receiver setup as the 2008, and I still use the 6" drop.

Here is a picture of the 2" drop bar in the 2008 Chevy Suburban backed of the the trailer.

Click image for larger version

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Here a picture of the 2008 Suburban with the 6" drop bar.

Click image for larger version

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I know Hensley will exchange drop bars at no cost just pay shipping cost. But I think this is limited to the original owner. If the person you are buying from is the original owner maybe they would do a swap for him and you pay the postage. Just a thought.

Also if you don't have the Hensley manual you can down load it from their web site. Get a grease guns and grease the 2 fittings, check the chains and brackets and follow the instructions in the manual to make sure its set up properly. You should be good.
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