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Old 09-04-2012, 02:13 PM   #15
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My biggest problem with the Hensley Arrow was with un-hitching. I resorted to unpinning the stinger at the tv ...
A lubricated stinger without pressure being applied to it will not stick. If you had it lubricated and it would not release, then you had pressure on it. The trick is to understand geometry/physics to understand where the pressure is being applied and how to release it.

Loaded distribution bars, for example would cause pressure. The TV (and therefore the stinger) being at a different angle than the Hensley would also cause pressure.

Some say to unload the distribution bars so they are silly loose, but if this causes the angle of the Hensley to be different than the stinger, it will cause sticking issues by placing pressure on the stinger.
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:28 PM   #16
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I have had luck using a small pry bar to pop the stinger out of the Hensley.
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:42 PM   #17
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I have never had a stick. If you watch the stinger/receiver interface as you raise the tongue jack, you'll see a moment where the two relax and move slightly independently from one another. STOP the jack switch. You're there. Get in the TV and drive off.
If you miss it, or don't go far enough, the receiver and the stinger are in tension and they will stick. Not a big deal, have someone show you what I describe.

Edit: This is after you have securely chocked the wheels and released the Over Center cams....as well as the chains and the breakaway switch cable.
This is the accurate description. And why I never bothered with alignment tools (though can see the efficacy thereof)

For those considering the Pro Pride (the updated Jim Hensley design) the hitch/unhitch is far easier from the beginning of ownership (by report; see that 2Airishuman thread also).

.
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:22 PM   #18
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With the ProPride there is a metal plate just in front of the trailer's coupler, and I lay my thumb on the plate resting on the coupler, and then jack the trailer up with the tongue jack. When the weight is removed from the hitch, I can feel a slight amount of movement between the two.

That's how I find the "sweet spot" before driving away from the trailer....works every time.
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Old 09-05-2012, 09:28 AM   #19
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Hensley sticking

I just spoke with Shawn at ProPride. I explained my problem un-hitching Hensley. He says their stinger is a welded up design and ProPride uses a laser cut steel. With the Hensley stinger you have allot of variation in shape because the welds are hand done. He thinks I must have had a stinger with a shape that caused it to jam in the box. I'd have to agree. Bad luck for me. I'm going to go with a new ProPride soon.
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Old 09-05-2012, 09:41 AM   #20
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Interesting. Do you have any pictures that could help show this issue?
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Old 09-05-2012, 06:12 PM   #21
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I am still running my ProPride but my thinking has shifted somewhat. I am currently of the opinion that the considerably greater numbers of Reese dual-cam hitches on the road provides for a greater level of confidence in the structural integrity of the hitch than it is possible to achieve with niche-market hitches. There's been one publicly reported structural weld failure with ProPride, which I find frightening.

The extended length of the shank, as measured from the receiver pin to the center of the ball, also places additional force on the receiver, which may increase the risk of weld failure on the receiver components. Who knows. It's not the use case that the receiver manufacturers test for.

NHTSA statistics show that the most common cause of fatalities involving trailers (with hitches of all kinds) is not sway but separation of the trailer from the tow vehicle, usually due either to weld failure, mismatched ball and coupler sizes, or failure to lock the coupler.
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:02 PM   #22
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I have the Pro Pride and think that the trailer jack is the most helpful item when hitching or un-hitching. Take the weight off everything with the trailer jack, and adjusting the ProPride to the correct screw-jack position then becomes a no brainer. I made a little "ruler" that I place aside of the screw jack tube of the Pro Pride, and I bring the upper tube to that level each time - in my case 6 inches. perfect adjustment and just raise the trailer jack high enough so that even a weak electric drill can bring the bar adjustment to the perfect height. Easy!
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:27 PM   #23
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Jammer,
We have first hand experience that the Reese dual cam hitches are only good to a point, at which they hitch is useless, our opinion. In our accident the anti sway bars were never found, but the chains were still attached. We will never get on the road w/o the Hensley. Reese never responded to our emails.
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:56 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Jammer View Post
I am still running my ProPride but my thinking has shifted somewhat. I am currently of the opinion that the considerably greater numbers of Reese dual-cam hitches on the road provides for a greater level of confidence in the structural integrity of the hitch than it is possible to achieve with niche-market hitches. There's been one publicly reported structural weld failure with ProPride, which I find frightening.

The extended length of the shank, as measured from the receiver pin to the center of the ball, also places additional force on the receiver, which may increase the risk of weld failure on the receiver components. Who knows. It's not the use case that the receiver manufacturers test for.

NHTSA statistics show that the most common cause of fatalities involving trailers (with hitches of all kinds) is not sway but separation of the trailer from the tow vehicle, usually due either to weld failure, mismatched ball and coupler sizes, or failure to lock the coupler.
Wellll, maybe, but the drawbar (stinger) for my Reese dual cam was recalled and replaced due to potential for breaking in two......so not necessarily.
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Old 09-06-2012, 12:24 PM   #25
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Yes, a few of them broke and there was a recall. Reese uses the same hitch head for their basic WD hitches, also, as I understand it, and there are hundreds of thousands of them on the road.

I believe ProPride has stated that there are about 3,000 of their hitches in use. There has been one weld failure. There has been no recall. I like the odds on Reese much better.
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Old 09-06-2012, 12:48 PM   #26
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That's fine...I'm not knocking either one.
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Old 09-06-2012, 01:25 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Jammer View Post
I am still running my ProPride but my thinking has shifted somewhat. I am currently of the opinion that the considerably greater numbers of Reese dual-cam hitches on the road provides for a greater level of confidence in the structural integrity of the hitch than it is possible to achieve with niche-market hitches. There's been one publicly reported structural weld failure with ProPride, which I find frightening.

The extended length of the shank, as measured from the receiver pin to the center of the ball, also places additional force on the receiver, which may increase the risk of weld failure on the receiver components. Who knows. It's not the use case that the receiver manufacturers test for.

NHTSA statistics show that the most common cause of fatalities involving trailers (with hitches of all kinds) is not sway but separation of the trailer from the tow vehicle, usually due either to weld failure, mismatched ball and coupler sizes, or failure to lock the coupler.
There is a certain design issue that you've highlighted with almost all WD hitches... the goal is to reduce the weight on the hitch, but you are adding 100 to 200 lbs of crap even further back. Then, you've increased the levered distance because of the length...

THEN, you crank up the bars to shift some weight to at least get you past where you started without all this stuff.

What would be neat, is longitudinal fresh water tanks in the trailer with maybe 5 compartments, and a pump system to keep it balanced (as far a percentage weight on the ball). Moving 150lbs from ahead of my axle to behind it would bring me into perfect trim. Or more ironically, a Hensley would work better for me (WD wise) if I welded it to the back of my Airstream.

The Andersen hitch addresses these concerns of mine, but they haven't replied to my emails on shipping to Canada... Oh well...
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Old 09-06-2012, 04:32 PM   #28
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A PP and Hensley don't add to TW once hitched up. Think about it......before you come unglued. Once your hitched the weight of all that "stuff" is truck payload weight. Your tongue weight is what is on the ball, not on the stinger. Just because it is "stored" on the tongue, doesn't make it tongue weight once hitched.

If I stored my Reese drawbar on the coupler....it doesn't become tongue weight when I hitch it up.
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