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Old 10-27-2008, 01:39 PM   #29
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Not the HAHA fault that a semi pulled in front of me and stopped dead on I-65 because of debris on the road. Had no chance and ran into Semi at approx 50 mph. TV was an 06 superduty diesel and saved our lives. Both airbags went off and Wife and I walked away with a couple of bruises and scratches. Key words are "we walked away"
Had a dog that used to be a daschound but is now a boston terrier with a shortened nose and eyes bulged out after he hit the back of seat. Anyway, we were extremely lucky and I replaced both the AS and truck with same as before.
If anybody wants to see pictures etc, let me know.
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Old 10-27-2008, 10:36 PM   #30
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After tens of thousands of trouble free towing miles (mountains, inclement weather, etc.), it's time to step up to a super hitch. I've decided on the 3P. Combination of product evolution, price and service.

Does anyone have a ProPride coupon code?
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Old 10-27-2008, 11:02 PM   #31
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Did someone say that ProPride is now making a height-adjustable hitch bar that will work with the Hensley Arrow?

I could really use that! I love my HAHA, but I have changed out the hitch bar three times now due to change of TV, change of receiver, and carrying heavier loads in the TV.

How much are they, and how do I order one?

Brian
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Old 10-28-2008, 08:15 AM   #32
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HAHA hitch bar modification

Brian,
Look at post #697 of the "the ultimate haha users guide" thread. I took my original straight hitch bar and modified it with some help from Sean Woodruff from Propride. I believe Propride is now selling the adjustable hitch bar for the Hensley. I have used mine a couple of times and it works great! The hitch was modified to be just like the Propride model.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...-26279-50.html


Rochar3,
I did a search and found a thread about the Proprde hitch. Did you by chance see this thread? You may want to contact TrophyJim2 to see how he likes his 3P hitch.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ket-42311.html
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Old 10-28-2008, 10:33 AM   #33
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After seeing your custom modification, I know that's what I need. I just sent an email to Sean and an inquiry to ProPride.

Brian
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Old 11-04-2008, 10:35 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff View Post
There are a lot of other factors in sway control. One of the major factors is the speed that the trailer is towed. The big tractor and bobcat guys don't usually get up to 60-70 mph.

Another is the size of the tow vehicle in relation to the load. Most of those guys do not have passenger type suspensions and weights of the tow vehicle.

A third it the position of the load to apply more tongue weight.
I have yet to see a low "construction trailer", doesn't matter what the load is, and NOT see some sway. A gooseneck would be better for these guys, IMO.

Wind resistance and center of gravity are often more favorable for these loads than with an RV. That, and the fact of not traveling too far, overall, seems to make it a moot point for most.

As I travel over 1,000 miles weekly, however, I have seen the consequences of these trailers and their loads when the trailer decides to go somewhere on its own. Too often, I suspect, it is the result of abuse and penny-pinching.

Had I a business need for a HD construction trailer (of whatever type) I am sure I would be recording weights of TV and CT, empty, loaded, whatever. I prefer to return to my home every night, unscratched.

A PP or HA is an excellent choice, period. I have the latter, and would find it a blast to play with the former on my current trailer for a comparison.
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Old 01-12-2009, 08:35 PM   #35
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pro pride p3 install

just installed a pro pride p3 on my unit and it is a great hitch. i hook up by myself and it is easy . i dont have the $30 guides. if you are off by a few inches you can pull the head around to line it up. dont need the 80$ brick the adjustable stinger is a easy set up also . just set up and get your ruler out and start measuring . then adjust to the correct set up. total time to get my p3 set up was two eaves about three hours. if it had not got dark i could have finished in two hours.
went on a trip last weekend and i didnt feel the tractor trailers as the blew by. plus we had a stiff wind the first day and it wasnt a problem .
i like the new yoke the p3 has in lieu of the bars on the arrow. install and forget it. 1K$ less than the arrow and a better unit in my estimation. those ha people have been s-----g eggs for quite a while. let me say i have never owned a ha just couldnt make myself pay that price for a hitch. the p3 is not a give away but it is in my $ range money well spent.
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Old 02-07-2009, 09:32 AM   #36
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This was a great discription of the way hitches work and how they are different. From Shawn W. last year via an e-mail to me. I really like the PP hitch. Jim


All travel trailers have an inherent problem. That problem is the location of the pivot point. A pivot point behind the rear axle of the tow vehicle allows for the trailer to move side to side on the ball and create a tow angle. Tow angles are necessary for turning corners but become a problem when towing a trailer at highway speeds.

At highway speeds these tow angles can begin to oscillate. Oscillation can be started by passing trucks, winds, uneven roads or driver inputs. These oscillating angles are measured from zero degrees when the trailer is directly behind you, and in line with the travel of the tow vehicle, to an angle either to the left or right of the line of travel. This is the condition known as sway.

Once these oscillating tow angles begin, the trailer creates a side to side forces at the pivot point (ie- the hitch ball). Sway forces at this point are on the end of a lever arm (the tow vehicle overhang) that is measured from the rear axle of the tow vehicle to the hitch ball. These forces, located at a distance behind the rear axle, require either the driver to attempt to control them by steering, a heavy tow vehilce to counteract the forces, or a hitch designed to dampen or eliminate them.

Steering out of a sway condition is tricky at best and often times drivers only compound the tow angles by turning the steering wheel. Needless to say, this isn't the best option for controlling sway.

Next, some people buy a large, heavy tow vehicle to counteract these forces. This is better than steering to control sway but also has its problems. Large, heavy tow vehicles can counteract sway forces only to the point of the sway force that is less than the force the tow vehicle can apply. Once the sway force becomes greater than the tow vehicle can handle an accident is usually the result.

Finally, the proper hitch equipment can help dampen or eliminate a sway condition.

There are only two types of sway control designs available. The first type are in the friction control family. The second type are in the pivot point manipulation family.

Friction controls attempt to dampen the sway forces by applying friction forces greater than the sway forces. The various designs available include, Equal-i-zer, Reese Dual Cam and all other sway bar configurations. While friction controls do dampen sway effectively they also have the problem that large tow vehicles have. Once the sway forces become greater than the friction forces can dampen, the trailer is taking control of the travel. There is always a potential for a sway force that can build to greater than the friction force.

Pivot point manipulation hitches control sway by moving the pivot point of the trailer forward and decreasing the lever arm between the tow vehicle and trailer. With a shorter lever arm the sway forces do not allow the trailer to begin to oscillate. The three companies manufacturing this type of hitch are Pull-Rite, Hensley and ProPride.

The Pull-Rite PHYSICALLY moves the effective pivot point forward by a hitch mount under the tow vehicle. This is a good hitch but many people choose to not buy it because it requires tow vehicle modification and only works on a specific tow vehicle.

Jim Hensley designed hitches VIRTUALLY project the pivot point forward by a linkage in the main head of the hitch. The genius in Jim's design comes from the fact that forces on the trailer attempt to pivot the trailer around a point that is forward of the actual hitch ball while forces applied by the tow vehicle allow the trailer to pivot at the hitch and turn corners. This FORWARD pivot point is the key to not allowing sway to begin when a force is applied by on the trailer.

Now, for the differences in the two Jim Hensley designs. As you might guess, in over ten years of manufacturing and selling the Arrow (the Hensley Mfg design) we had common problems that needed to be addressed in a new design.

The Arrow uses a strut bar design to transfer sway forces through the main head and project the pivot point. These forces can become so great that the strut actually pushes the frame bracket toward the trailer. Once this frame bracket moves the strus become useless in projecting the pivot point. This wasn't acceptable to Jim Henlsey and he addressed it in his new design.

The ProPride hitch will use a yoke design that counteracts the sway forces from a single point below the traile tongue. This eliminates any possibility of frame brackets slipping and losing the sway control. This is the PRIMARY feature change in the two designs.

The ProPride design also comes with an adjustable hitch bar. The Arrow comes with a welded hitch bar that requires you to exchange the bar should you ever change the height of your tow vehicle or trailer in the future. This is an added shipping expense of $40-$75 for the exchange that I didn't see as necessary for my customers.

The other benefit of an adjustable hitch bar is that it allows for tow vehicle receiver variations. The hitch bar can be set to parallel to the ground as it should be for proper weight distribution.


The ProPride design also uses a different weight distribution connection in the bottom of the main head. In the Arrow it is necessary to replace the grease fittings from time to time or the bars will fall out of the bottom of the hitch head. This is more of an annoyance than anything else so we designed a different system.

The ProPride main hitch head is 20 pounds lighter than the Arrow. There is a lot of unnecessary steel in the Arrow hitch head,

The ProPride paint will also be much better than the Arrow. The Arrow powder coating company does not properly treat the steel and the Arrow chips and rusts prematurely.
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Old 02-07-2009, 12:36 PM   #37
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Yeah so?
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Old 02-07-2009, 03:01 PM   #38
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I'm not sure what you mean? Yeah so?


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Old 04-08-2010, 07:25 AM   #39
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TrophyJim, just wanted to let you know that I have come back to this post repeatedly and it is the most concise description of the hitch systems I could find and it has been really really helpful!
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Old 04-08-2010, 03:04 PM   #40
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I see it as simple as this...

Either purchase a ProPride 3P now - or upgrade latter...


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Old 04-08-2010, 04:41 PM   #41
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I love my PP. Seriously. It is the poop.
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Old 05-11-2010, 03:54 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TROPHYJIM2 View Post
Jim Hensley designed hitches VIRTUALLY project the pivot point forward by a linkage in the main head of the hitch. The genius in Jim's design comes from the fact that forces on the trailer attempt to pivot the trailer around a point that is forward of the actual hitch ball while forces applied by the tow vehicle allow the trailer to pivot at the hitch and turn corners. This FORWARD pivot point is the key to not allowing sway to begin when a force is applied by on the trailer.

Now, for the differences in the two Jim Hensley designs. As you might guess, in over ten years of manufacturing and selling the Arrow (the Hensley Mfg design) we had common problems that needed to be addressed in a new design.
Hensley's design is not only a bunch of hardare but also much less effective then a strut bar. On top of that you have to reduce your trailer load because longer connection reduces effective tongue load and the less load you have the more prone you are to sway.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TROPHYJIM2 View Post
The Arrow uses a strut bar design to transfer sway forces through the main head and project the pivot point. These forces can become so great that the strut actually pushes the frame bracket toward the trailer. Once this frame bracket moves the strus become useless in projecting the pivot point. This wasn't acceptable to Jim Henlsey and he addressed it in his new design.
That is again questionable argument. The benefit of a longer pivot point is minimal because the extension is too short to make asubstantial difference. You would have to extent the hitch at least 4 feet feet to actually feel any advantage. And again the longer the hitch the less load it can accept without reinforcement.


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Man, my basic Reese set up works just fine for me... Though I haven't towed with a pro-pride or other set up.... So I can't say how they tow>>

Seems like a lot of overkill for my rig.... and a lot more time to hook it up... Guess if I had a 34' I would look at it... my AS only weighs 4300 dry...
It is a total overkill. Costly and pain to install and the benefits are questionable.

Check out this link there is a bunch of pictures of different solutions. Trailer Hitch Guide

One that got my attention is the one from Bloue Ox in the middle of the page but I have never tried it so can't say anything about it effects.
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