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Old 03-28-2008, 05:29 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by mikeb9550
I see another question about the chains being too tight. As long as you cross them and run them under the spring bars, its pretty much immpossible to have them too tight and reach your receiver. If you get out and look at the hitch in a turn, the chains are actually looser than when straight due to the way the hitch pivots on the linkage.
You got it. The chains never have to be any longer than they are when you are hitched up and straight in line with the trailer.
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Old 03-28-2008, 07:11 PM   #30
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actually that isn't what his note suggests…
By that post, I was apologizing for an unjustified slant on his participation. I really don’t know how to put it any better. My apologies to all for this.
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Old 03-29-2008, 07:38 AM   #31
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Vaughan, I never took your comment as being negative.

As far as safety chains go, I adjust mine so that they hang right in between the front of the spring bars and the ground. Loose isn't bad, but I don't like to drag them through turns any more than necessary.

I don't see many issues with chains. Every now and then someone routes them outside the spring bars, which is a no-no. I see more problems with routing the electric cable and emergency brake cable. I've managed to pop both of them at least once in the gas stations. The problem with a short wheel-base vehicle (Avalanche) is that I can get very aggressive in my turns. Makes for easier backing in at the State Parks but extends those cables to the max.
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Old 03-29-2008, 07:54 AM   #32
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I was told this is not the place to market my products, so I respect the wishes of the moderators. Obviously, others will take every opportunity to put their website link on the screen. Don't be fooled by what appears to be good intentions.
Ron, if you see someone giving out unsafe info, or bad directions, please jump in and set things straight. It's more important that no one gets hurt, than having to "clean up" a couple of posts.
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Old 03-30-2008, 08:07 AM   #33
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thank you all for your help.
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Old 03-30-2008, 12:15 PM   #34
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Thanks Ron!
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Old 09-13-2008, 09:43 AM   #35
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Chains on HaHa

Hi, I too installed my Arrow and found the OEM safety chains too short. I bought a new larger set with hooks and installed them by cutting off the originals. But now the new chains are too long(4-5 links), so I just hooked up big rubber strap around the jack post, and secured the ends to the chain. I adjusted the chain with correct slack, then attached the hooks to the chain so the extra is held above the pavement. This allows all the movement the chain needs in a turn and still uses the cross chain pattern below the load bars. The chains still drop and drag when I back up but then most of them will.

Or should have I cut them to length and reattached them with a new link???

What is the experienced HA tower have to say?

See you on the road.
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Old 09-14-2008, 09:11 AM   #36
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Fred, I think your solution will work just fine. No need to cut and reattach. On an Airstream the chains will drop and drag due to the hitch being lower to the ground.
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Old 09-14-2008, 11:44 AM   #37
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I had a little extra chain and used a couple of large zip ties to secure the extra. Hope you enjoy your HA. I sure do.
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Old 09-15-2008, 10:40 AM   #38
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Chains and Brake Safety Cable on HaHa

Sean, I got out the Hensley Install instructions and they say adjust for the added 12 inches of hitch length. But what are you adjusting to? I added a new chain because the OEM was too short to connect but I didn't add to the brake safety cable because it would still reach. What to do you tell your customers?

After reading the forum on the brake safety, I think for brake away safety, the chains are your first line of defense, meaning the pig tail has to be long enough to allow braking even if the trailer has dropped on the chains. But the brake safety cable has to be long enough to prevent brake activation unless you have complete break away and then the brakes need to come on.

This not rocket science, but I can't find what I'm looking for to make the (ADJUSTMENT). Do we just connect and hope for the best???
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Old 09-15-2008, 11:04 AM   #39
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PS, lengthening the pig tail on my AS is more work than installing the HAHA but I checked into that one also. The pig tail is run down through the frame at the A frame, into to the belly pan, out under and into a hole in the floor, to the DC buss that is behind the front sofa. I would estimate a 3=4 hours to lengthen it, plus the cost of parts. But then a DIY person might like doing it too. I just had the sofa out last year to install the new disc brake system that needed the DC connections for the elect. brake activator also.!!!
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Old 09-16-2008, 07:57 AM   #40
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Fred, I let a few links hang from the connection point. It hasn't been an issue. I'm not sure about the rubber strap solution. If I'm reading correctly, you're using that to take up the excess. If that's the case, your biggest concern is the strap braking and allowing the chains to drag.

I always recommend you extend the pig tail to the proper length (I mean replace the existing). You can buy extensions, but the 7-way is one of the biggest source of problems in your electric system. Extensions double the potential for problems. Most of my calls on brake issues can be traced to the 7-way or brake wiring (Not on Airstreams, on the SOBs).

The break away cable should be the first thing to "hit" if you should become disconnectected. I run mine over the top of the Hensley and actually through the pin that holds strut bar to the main unit. There's nothing on the Arrow to hang up on it, but leave enough for a sharp turn. Mine hangs down about 6 inches below the hitch.

I think that covers it. Give me a call if you need any more help. I'm back from Hershey now (and tired, great show!). I've towed 4 trailers over ten years with the Arrow, so I've tried about everything with the chains, electric, and break away. The sad thing is I walk around campgrounds looking at other Hensleys and talking to the owners. My kids think I have issues.
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Old 09-16-2008, 08:35 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fred bartlet View Post
Sean, I got out the Hensley Install instructions and they say adjust for the added 12 inches of hitch length. But what are you adjusting to? I added a new chain because the OEM was too short to connect but I didn't add to the brake safety cable because it would still reach. What to do you tell your customers?

After reading the forum on the brake safety, I think for brake away safety, the chains are your first line of defense, meaning the pig tail has to be long enough to allow braking even if the trailer has dropped on the chains. But the brake safety cable has to be long enough to prevent brake activation unless you have complete break away and then the brakes need to come on.

This not rocket science, but I can't find what I'm looking for to make the (ADJUSTMENT). Do we just connect and hope for the best???

I tell my customers to let the chain drop 1-2 inches below the hitch head when the tow vehicle is straight in line with the trailer. This is the longest the chains ever need to be.

The electrical emergency cable should engage at about the same time as the chains should the trailer become disconnected.
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