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Old 03-15-2010, 12:15 PM   #43
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2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake , Minnesota
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Thank you Sean. That's the most sensible thing I have ever read here on W.D. bars.

There is sound advice on selection of your hitches,

and lends some sensibility to Inland Andy's advice on his, as related to Airstreams.

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Old 03-15-2010, 12:21 PM   #44
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2008 20' Safari SE
Thumb Area , Michigan
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For anyone looking for answers on how to hitch a travel trailer I would recommend reading the two articles on the subject in the Spring 2010 issue of Airstream Life. The first article “Optimizing Your Trailer Hitch For Safety” by Andy Thomson of CanAmRV, with a second follow up article scheduled for the Summer issue. The other article dealt with problems that some times occur with the tow vehicle's receiver, “Receivers Not Only In Football” by John Irwin.
Between the two articles I found the answer to several questions that I have not properly understood in the past.

Richard from MI

20' 2008 Safari SE, Dill TPMS Silver Dog House
2007 GMC 1/2 ton Sierra ARE Cap
AIR # 10494
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Old 03-15-2010, 12:46 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
...and lends some sensibility to... as related to Airstreams.
the SENSIBLE advice to use LIGHTer bars with a reese dual cam has nothing to do with the A/S product.

the bars need to flex 1-2 inches for the friction based cams and the notched/bent bars to dampen sway.

and THAT info comes directly from reese.

visit their website, read the owners manual, check out THEIR setup guides...

1000 lb bars with a 600-700 lb tongue may not FLEX enough to make effective use of the cams.

and THAT is the distinction for that product (the reese dual cam) specifically

eq' reps have also had their hitch/bar recommendations posted here in other threads.

the problem with the "LIGHT BAR" religion is that it has been suggested HERE for ALL hitches...

for example read the first dozen or so posts in THIS thread (see post #7 and #10) ...

with a 1000 lb+ tongue i was JUST BARELY able to reload the front axle with 1000 lb bars...

and by coincidence get a 50/50 axle loading on the truck...

this required FULLY flexing the 1000 lb bars and MAXing out the hitch/jack adjustments to the limit.

"perfect" was the declaration bestowed upon the rigging.

which was then followed by the SILLY advice to LOWER the bar rating to 750 lbs (bars didn't exist)

AND lower the tv tire pressures to 55 psi...

never mind that the axle loads suggested the tires needed to be AT 70+ psi to SAFELY support the documented load.

and after towing a while the 1000 bars were NO LONGER sufficient to properly reload the steering axle...

so the truck started to SAG and the trailer drop BELOW level at the hitch and more scale reading confirmed these visual clues.

so ultimately the w/d bars were UPgraded to 1400 lb bars AND another leaf added to the truck...

both actions COUNTER to the "make it all SOFT" stuff which misleads so MANY folks here.

the result was and continues to be a much MUCH better ride for the trailer, truck and me.

which brings us back to

1. understand the weight issues by weighing stuff, make adjustments and weigh stuff.

2. follow the HITCH makers advice regarding THEIR products and the TIRE makers advice regarding their stuff...

3. consider EACH rig as somewhat unique and sort out the matching of trailer to tow vehicle...

4. don't assume ANYTHING about 1970 trucks or trailers is valid OR applicable to vehicles 30-40 years NEWER...

and so on.

if ya wanna "make sense" about how and why the gear works NOW as it does, get OVER and past the 70s...

or do the hustle in bell bottoms, platform shoes and while wearing WIDE white belts with yer polyester leisure suits...

all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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Old 03-15-2010, 09:10 PM   #46
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Thanks. You can only be expected to comment on your product and we appreciate that. Your hitch (and HA) are somewhat unique as they can be set for any amount of WD or none and the sway features still work.
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Old 03-15-2010, 10:06 PM   #47
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Conclusion for me, and only me.

Hi, I have read so many statements, facts, opinions, and hogwash about hitches on this forum; And I have come to this conclusion [for me] my hitch is the proper hitch for the weight of my trailer. My hitch is set-up to the hitch manufacturers instructions, in conjunction with the instructions from the manufacture of my tow vehicle. This set-up has been in all kinds of weather conditions and in vertually all of the western states without any incidents, failures, or sway conditions of any kind. I am happy with my set-up and I hope the rest of you find that magic combination that allows you to feel secure while towing and being able to sleep at night in peace.

2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent"
[ Small Silver Castle ]
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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Old 03-15-2010, 11:46 PM   #48
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We towed our 1993 25' Excella with our 2008 GMC 2500HD and our Hensley Arrow hitch 14,513 miles last year on our unemployment tour of America. Through mountains and deserts, and the crappy highways in Indiana we had no sway, no problems. It's just a fantastic hitch / trailer combo. I'd recommend a Hensley to anyone. Of course I do agree that the paint fails quickly, but that's what POR-15 is for.
Michelle & Leon
New England Unit

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Old 03-23-2010, 07:26 PM   #49
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We have an '03 Silverado 2500 diesel, and the Reese Dual-Cams with 800lb bars for our '94 30' Excella. It's what Andy suggested, and it's a super arrangement. You might also enjoy a great article in the latest Airstream Living magazine about hitches and towing--I learned a couple of great things there.

All I've heard about the Hensley system is that it is absolultely outstanding...and very expensive. We're very happy with the $500 Reese set-up, and recommend it to you too.

Have fun!

'94 Excella 1000; '03 Silverado 2500HD
Louisville, Tennessee
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