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Old 03-14-2010, 10:19 AM   #15
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We have both. Hensley's are fine.
As others have said, it'd your trailer, use what you feel comfortable with. Many, many airstreamers use Hensley without a problem. In order to have an opinon, you must have used a product.

Marie
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Old 03-14-2010, 10:25 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd90mac View Post
We have both. Hensley's are fine.

As others have said, it's your trailer, use what you feel comfortable with. Many, many airstreamers use Hensley without a problem. In order to have an opinon, you must have used a product.

Marie
THANK YOU Marie!!!!

That the hardest thing for others to understand!!!!
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Old 03-14-2010, 11:28 AM   #17
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My rig is a 2004 Silverado 2500 Duramax/Allison with club cab and short bed. It tows a 98 31' Limited (only appears dainty in mass when parked next to a 34-footer.)

My hitch is a Hensley with 1000 lb bars. The bars flex when I jack them up. The Airstreams appears to ride "softly."

It tows like a dream; I think it (the rig) is a perfect setup. But that's just me. I do know that I have many thousands of miles behind me and I am counting on many more ahead.

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Old 03-14-2010, 11:39 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmclemore View Post
My rig is a 2004 Silverado 2500 Duramax/Allison with club cab and short bed. It tows a 98 31' Limited (only appears dainty in mass when parked next to a 34-footer.)

My hitch is a Hensley with 1000 lb bars. The bars flex when I jack them up. The Airstreams appears to ride "softly."

It tows like a dream; I think it (the rig) is a perfect setup. But that's just me. I do know that I have many thousands of miles behind me and I am counting on many more ahead.

Pat
This is the rig we have, or similar enough, our Silverado is a gasser, and our 31' is a '74. On a Hensley or ProPride, you don't have to transfer 1000#.
Something that works very well for raising and lowering the bars on them is a battery powered drill or impact gun with a socket on it, it saves a lot of time ratcheting the arms with a manual tool.
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Old 03-14-2010, 03:40 PM   #19
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Our rig is small, 640# tongue wt and softly sprung Tundra.

I could fully restore front axle load with 640# w.d. bars, unless

the Tundra had stiffer springs in the front, or

the Tundra wheelbase was longer.

I could also fully restore front axle load with 14000# bars, just to be safe

but the 14000# bars would flex much less than the 640# bars as the trailer pivots vertically on

the hitch ball, as it moves over uneven roadway,

possibly tearing my little trailer to pieces.

Could it be that choosing w.d. bars based on tongue weight alone is foolish,

and both sides of the softly-sprung argument have merit.

And the tow vehicle should be more closely chosen to match the trailer,

and that going oversize on either one is a hazard to your Airstream.
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Old 03-14-2010, 05:54 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
...I could fully restore front axle load with 640# w.d. bars, unless

the Tundra had stiffer springs in the front, or

the Tundra wheelbase was longer....
No pickin on ya dk, but now's the time to bring this up...

Does anyone have some background to the often quoted info that the vehicles spring stiffness has anything to do with transfering weight when using WD bars?

I've drawn some free body diagrams and the only items I see that come into play are distances (ball to axles), bar length and bar tension.

Mees thinkin we have another old hitchin tale on our hands...

Think of a teeter totter with a 200 lb dude on one end. A scale under that end o da tetter will show 200 lbs. Put a 60 lb kid on the other side and the scale shows 140 lbs. No where does the springyness of the board or the firmness of the 200 lber's duff come into play.

Now if ya start moving the dude and the kid in and out (adjusting the wheel base/ball distance), that's someting different...
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Old 03-14-2010, 06:13 PM   #21
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Hi Vern. We sure don't need more hitchin' tales.

But don't you have to compress the front springs to bring the truck to level? Stiffer springs, more resistance, more w.d. tension.

If not I will surely edit that line out of my post.

Thanks Vern, and I enjoy the thoughtful discussion.

Doug K
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Old 03-14-2010, 06:42 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by r carl View Post
Im sure a 1974 frame is only a 4" channel. The 1998 is at least a 5" so be carefull comparing.
Our '74 has a 5" channel. I know, I had to cut part of it out and replace it.
I can post pictures and copies of the receipts for the materials.
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Old 03-14-2010, 06:48 PM   #23
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Im glad i didnt bet on that, you would be . I thought it was the early 80s when they went to 5".
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Old 03-14-2010, 06:51 PM   #24
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Im glad i didnt bet on that, you would be . I thought it was the early 80s when they went to 5".
No, it was 4" through most of the '60's. What did change was 5" C channel to 5" box channel in the mid '80's. However, if anything, the C channel would be weaker, and more subject to flex and damage, than the newer box channel. Our trailer does weigh in at a tick over 7500 pounds, fully loaded.
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Old 03-14-2010, 07:14 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Hi Vern. We sure don't need more hitchin' tales.

But don't you have to compress the front springs to bring the truck to level? Stiffer springs, more resistance, more w.d. tension.

If not I will surely edit that line out of my post.

Thanks Vern, and I enjoy the thoughtful discussion.

Doug K
After thinking about it, here what I came up with:

It depends on what your goal is in transferring weight. If your goal is just to transfer a certain number of pounds, then the spring strength does not matter. If your goal is to level the truck without regard to how much weight is transferred, then the spring tension comes into play.

Which brings up the question: Which should be the goal?

Regards,

Ken
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Old 03-14-2010, 08:00 PM   #26
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... Which should be the goal?...
the answer depends on which gizmo is referenced...

1. w/d bars RESTORE steering axle loads (the term equalizing is kitchen swill when used in reference to w/d bars)

2. the shank/stinger/ball mount DROP/distance is used to level the trailer (after the w/d are tensioned).

3. the hitch apparatus ties tv2trailer and SOME of them include sway dampening or sway elimination

4. pig tail transmits juice 4 battery and lights

5. chains and breakaway/brake wire are 2nd safety features IF the primary connection fails.
____________

so AGAIN, primary goal of w/d bars is to RESTORE steering axle load.

all the other real/imaginary objectives 4 w/d bars are 2ndary and vary from rig2rig

"leveling" the truck is NOT a goal of w/d, but may be a CONSEQUENCE on some trucks, sometimes.

1. the truck may not have been "level" unhitched, most are NOT.

2. a tad more DROP on the drive axle of REAL trucks is ok, especially when the axle RATINGs favor the rear.

like most newer mopar trucks.

my truck is 3-5 inches HIGHER at the rear unhitched and only 1-2 inches higher after CORRECT w/d bar tensioning.

but "level" isn't part of the equation, or my rigging goals except for the trailer.

rear axle is only 100 lbs higher capacity compared to the front on my truck (6000/6100),

even with the heavy diesel engine up front.

on SOME trucks this ft/r axle capacity difference is 1-4 THOUSAND lbs

and on those trucks much LESS (or none) w/d is needed...

since the steering axle may not UNload with towing (these trucks typically have a LARGE payload) .

3. REstoring steering axle loads doesn't = compressing the front springs.

w/d is NOT about 'squatting' the truck at all corners (see the primary goal)

4. IF the headlights are pointed upwards while towing that's a CLUE to improperly adjusted w/d gear OR tires pressures...

and a minor issue... IF the front axle load has been restored correctly...

almost no truck with properly adjusted w/d gear will need the headlights adjusted...
____________

5. LEVELING the trailer matters but is largely dictated by DROP on the shank/stinger gizmo...

one can ~ these adjustments with a measuring STICK and many readings...

but weights at the various TENSIONs on the w/d bars are the gold standard.
___________

this thread USED 2b a sticky, and except for the lame jokes about UNDERSTANDING it or math issues...

it's a USEFUL thread on things related.

i have no idea why it isn't now a sticky,

especially considering some the CRAP threads that are stickies in other subforums...

it DOES explain some of these issues without regard to brands of ANYTHING...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...sis-19236.html

maybe that's why it's no longer a sticky?

cheers
2air'
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Old 03-14-2010, 08:34 PM   #27
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Restoring front axle weight/load is the goal, our Burb is not level whether towing or not.

At the CAT..
no bars, str axle 3140...drive axle 5280...trlr axles 7580
WD bars set, trlr level, str axle 3540...drive axle 4900...trlr axles 7680

....it's the trailer that MUST be level.
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Old 03-14-2010, 09:19 PM   #28
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one more string of notions...

Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
...Does anyone have some background to the often quoted info that the vehicles spring stiffness has anything to do with transfering weight when using WD bars?

I've drawn some free body diagrams and the only items I see that come into play are distances (ball to axles), bar length and bar tension.

Mees thinkin we have another old hitchin tale on our hands...
i agree with vernon on this point but can't sort out HOW to rectify it in the only brain at my disposal.

in nick's thread i suggested spring rates/tire pressures and cog may alter the math slightly...

but over the last 4-5 years THINKING about this, i dunno anymore.

i suspect the math/equations would be made more complicated to account for those issues (spring rates/tire pressures/cog)...

and only result in MINORly different results compared to the original length/weight equations...

this is way over my pay grade, so someone with real math/engineering skills would need to sort this out for us.

ultimately using scale readings and altering equipment ONE PIECE at a time is the best/pragmatic approach,

while the equations explain WHY and what is happening...
___________

and last, lastly to the O.P....

AVOID or question ALL of the bs/myths/oldtimertales and so on promoted here.

anyone preaching HOW to rig as a declared authority

needs to be able and WILLING to support every step in their approach...

when sensible folks QUESTION those recommendations...

don't buy into any bodies NONsense

if they aren't willing to offer up the basic science/math/engingeering that supports those recommendations.

ok, i'm outta my mind now...

cheers
2air'
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