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Old 08-10-2016, 07:39 AM   #15
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawus"
 
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Thumbs up No error....

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Originally Posted by RinconVTR View Post
I have to believe this is an error in manufacturing. Every stringer they make is designed to be used up or down. In the up position as your picture shows (which looks just like mine) the angle robs us of weight distribution. If it was straight or angles down, the weight bars follow and suddenly a couple degrees change equates to inches of additional adjustment. That's why Propride has an adjustable angle like most populate WHD's do.
Define up or down. Drop or rise?...or the slight upward tilt of the haha stinger when, (as in my case), it's distributing 1200lbs of TW.

I have not had a problem getting the needed WD, with the proper drop haha stinger, (not designed to "flip"), Class V Reese receiver and 1000lb bars.

I will not rationalize the PP, as I have never used it.

Bob
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Old 11-30-2016, 03:05 PM   #16
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Another failure this fall before winterizing...another jack failure. The dang nut snapped right off when cracking it up. Scared the bejebus out of me.

Also not the set screw on the locking collar. Turns out these are rarely tight as shipped from Hensley and they refuse to put any sort of thread locker on. In fact, the replacement I received, the screw not even in all the way. It ready to fall out at any point during a road trip.

And thus I believe this little screw is at fault for all the jack failures I've had.

So I highly recommend pulling them or backing them out just enough to add blue thread locker and hand tightening them. Don't let these $.02 screws ruin a multi-thousand dollar road trip!

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Old 01-10-2017, 09:33 AM   #17
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It doesn't matter what angle the side plates or riser of the stinger is at. What does matter is that the long ends of the stinger are parallel to each other. That, in fact, is how my stinger is constructed and also those of both my sons.
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Old 01-11-2017, 01:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barneys View Post
It doesn't matter what angle the side plates or riser of the stinger is at. What does matter is that the long ends of the stinger are parallel to each other. That, in fact, is how my stinger is constructed and also those of both my sons.
Barney
The 2x2 stinger lengths were the focus...not the plates.

And it has been confirmed by Hensley the 2x2 pieces are not parallel by design. Which makes no sense at all. The straight bar is straight...ZERO angle. So why weld the others at an angle?

The other bars can be used as a drop or a rise (flip up or flip down). Thus changing this welded in angle, up or down. The same as adding or removing washers from other WDH systems. But by Hensley claims the 2X2 bars of the stinger are not welded parallel is beyond me.

This angle has a decent impact on the maximum tension of the bars...which as I said other WDH's have adjustable angles AS DOES the Propride.
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Old 05-04-2018, 06:11 AM   #19
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Hensley Hitch problems

Has anyone ever had a problem with the Hensley where when the brakes are applied, the trailer (on the Hensley) shifts forward and right. Then it takes a little time but shifts back the the straight position.
This hitch is new to me, having inherited it with no manuals.
Is there an adjustment that I can make?
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Old 05-04-2018, 06:20 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cottage View Post
Has anyone ever had a problem with the Hensley where when the brakes are applied, the trailer (on the Hensley) shifts forward and right. Then it takes a little time but shifts back the the straight position.
This hitch is new to me, having inherited it with no manuals.
Is there an adjustment that I can make?
There has been several posts I believe on the Hensley bump. Make sure your brake gain is high enough on your trailer brakes to stop. The delay on applying the brakes to them reacting is only milliseconds but the trailer doesn't stop exactly at the precise time you apply the brakes on the TV. The Hensley brake reaction is more noticeable than direct ball mount.
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Old 05-04-2018, 06:43 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cottage View Post
Has anyone ever had a problem with the Hensley where when the brakes are applied, the trailer (on the Hensley) shifts forward and right. Then it takes a little time but shifts back the the straight position.
This hitch is new to me, having inherited it with no manuals.
Is there an adjustment that I can make?
Ah, the Hensley bump. Many conversations about that. Mine hasn't done it in quite a few years.

1) Make sure that the struts are adjusted EXACTLY on center (upper head vs. lower head). That's why there are the 2 little alignment tapes on there. Using a camera and going for a drive will show you how far you are off.

2) Make sure you have enough brake controller adjustment for the trailer to pull back on TV, as stated above.

3) The Propride adjustable stinger (for Hensley) made up periodically by Sean helped a BUNCH. Keeping the upper and low head perfectly level, by using tilt in the stinger keeps the head from trying to run "down hill" upon brake application.

4) if you have electric over hydraulic disc brakes (as I do) making sure the system has absolutely no air in it is essential. The apply lag time allows for the "bump".

EDIT:

5) I would also add that I keep the bearings much tighter that I would for a conventional wheel bearing set. Since they don't spin (only rock) there is no heat build up etc. I found quite a bit of slop between top and bottom half of the head.
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Old 05-04-2018, 09:44 AM   #22
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Thanks Tater and dznf0g, I appreciate the knowledge
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Old 05-04-2018, 09:53 AM   #23
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And, as a point of fact, the ProPride hitch responds well to the exact same setup.

The most critical one, IMHO, is making sure the brake controller is getting on the brakes hard enough and fast enough when you get on the brakes.

I use a P3 controller, and have the profile set (usually P2 or P3 depending on conditions) so that the controller gets on the brakes hard at first, and then eases off if necessary. I can usually feel the AS pulling back on the truck a bit--that keeps the rig in tension, and really helps with getting it stopped--especially in rush hour traffic in Phoenix (my personal not-favorite place to be in traffic under any circumstances)
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Old 05-04-2018, 11:34 AM   #24
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawus"
 
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Thumbs up Two different 'hensley' bumps...

Brake..
We use the TruControl Brake Controller, it uses a solid-state gyro to sense acceleration & braking, set the gain once to account for trailer weight and it adjusts for road & weather conditions.
On our 95 Burb I adjusted the brake light switch at the pedal so the lights would come on long before master cylinder pressure. Helped a LOT but didn't eliminate.

Head Struts...
They must be tensioned properly and adjusted so the head is perfectly straight.

Bob
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Old 05-04-2018, 03:16 PM   #25
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Thank you Bob
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