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Old 12-01-2011, 09:58 PM   #1
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Hensley Arrow weight adjustment question

Well, we are almost there. We have a 2012 25FB Flying Cloud with a Hensley Arrow setup and a Chevy Trailblazer for a TV. How do we know when we have the weight adjustment correctly done? Is it trial and Error? There has to be a better way. I need some help guys.
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:54 PM   #2
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Hensley Arrow Setup Procedure

Quote:
Originally Posted by danlehosky View Post
Well, we are almost there. We have a 2012 25FB Flying Cloud with a Hensley Arrow setup and a Chevy Trailblazer for a TV. How do we know when we have the weight adjustment correctly done? Is it trial and Error? There has to be a better way. I need some help guys.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The following link may give you some ideas on how to approach your Hensley Arrow setup.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...hts-73579.html
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Old 12-02-2011, 06:42 AM   #3
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This may help you, too:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ide-26279.html
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Old 12-02-2011, 07:56 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danlehosky View Post
Well, we are almost there. We have a 2012 25FB Flying Cloud with a Hensley Arrow setup and a Chevy Trailblazer for a TV. How do we know when we have the weight adjustment correctly done? Is it trial and Error? There has to be a better way. I need some help guys.
It's a one-day PITA. For a new guy. Looks complicated (on paper) but isn't. One has to know weights and then apply proper leverage through the hitch apparatus. That's it.

Just did an autopsy of an H/A setup, starts on Post #50:

Disk Brake Conversion

Here's a handy quote from Ron Gratz about working the WDH numbers in the most basic sense (for the default TV, a pickemup or similar):

"A properly sized and adjusted weight distributing hitch will
"transfer" a load equal to approximately 20-25% of the tongue weight to the TT's axles.

A load equal to about 75-80% of the tongue weight will be added to the TV's rear axles."


You'll need (and post):

TV door sticker on:

GAWR, FF & RR
GCWR
GVWR

TT:
GVWR
TW

And then a set of scale readings for TV & TT, empty

TV, empty: driver, with full fuel (and anything permanent in truck; toolbox)
TT: empty, but with full propane/fresh water plus permanent equip/supplies.

With manufacturer published numbers, and true "empty weight" one can know the range to work within. Short of this means frustration. Get the published and empty weights, please.

TW: a separate number is invaluable. Home TW Measurement

Once the numbers are available (a full set thereof, otherwise no go) then the rigging can be dialled in. This involves a trip to a certified scale. Use the Ron Gratz chart as shown in the autopsy above, or copy off the blank from the other thread below. Being able to double-check numbers is key.

After that, a few more adjustments as necessary, and scale tickets to confirm.

With future trips, one will learn -- with an accumulation of certified scale weight tickets (3-pad scale) -- the potential range of adjustments to work with differing loads (short or long trips, different loadings, etc).

Visited CAT Scales and Numbers are in

WDH & Tire Wear

Read a good bit. Don't worry over "debates", the money is on having the proper numbers from which to dial in the rigging. The rest is the usual fun-and-games around here.

Numbers talk. The CAT Scale is your friend. Initial adjustments are great, but experience with the TV-TT rig means finding what works best. It is not just a one-time thing, but a trend.

.
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:16 AM   #5
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My method was to measure the distance from ground to top of rear wheel lip.
After I hooked up, I adjusted bars until measurement was the same as unloaded.

I then wrapped white electrical tape on the adjustment jacks so I can quickly adjust it.

Bob
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:21 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danlehosky View Post
Is it trial and Error? There has to be a better way. I need some help guys.
Yes, and no. I found that I had to try a setting, drive it for a while, and then make adjustments. Basically, I needed to keep applying more tension until the ride smoothed out.

I should add that I spoke with Hensley a couple of times about this, and they said that how the vehicle rides is the most important factor, and not how level it looks, or how much its height changed, or how much the spring bars are tensioned.
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:46 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triplenet View Post
My method was to measure the distance from ground to top of rear wheel lip.
After I hooked up, I adjusted bars until measurement was the same as unloaded.

I then wrapped white electrical tape on the adjustment jacks so I can quickly adjust it.

Bob
Disclaimer: I have no Hensley experience. Your hitch, in fact, is the Hensley I've looked at most closely (last August in Eureka Springs.) In general, though, I think you're missing something with your method. You should measure both the front and rear distances from ground to the wheel arch before and after hitching up and look for the proper adjustment to keep the tow vehicle level. If you adjust so that the tow vehicle doesn't drop at all at the rear axle when you load up with the trailer's tongue weight, you may be transferring too much weight to the steering axle.
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