Originally Posted by toddnich
... but i wanted it perfect. i thought i had it pretty darn close...it's driving me nuts.
well i'll tell ya what drives me NUTS...
misc. new threads, when this is covered IN the user guide!
and NO PICTURES of the issue to boot!
it doesn't need to be perfect...
and close to center when stopped is close enough (25.914536 mm +/-)
to add 2 what andrew suggested when stopping in a level straight area,
use the manual brake controller for last few feet to pull BACK on the hitch and trailer.
loosen both struts and tighten boths sides (without
ANY spring bar tension)
then run through the alignment/setup process ONCE...
but looking for it to STAY centered while driving, ALL bets are off.
wind, road crown, trailer loading, and continuous minor steering input...
will keep the head actively moving side2side.
and demo videos with an overhead camera show this continuous action at the head.
as long as it's reasonably close to midline AND the struts are tightened to JUST FIRM, it is correctly centered.
users often stop and inspect and make regular adjustments of the strut bars hoping for dead center alignment.
i think that's why the company manual suggests REMOVING the little tabs of reflective/centering tape AFTER set up.
because 'perfect' won't happen but what WILL happen is...
1. the bar tension will be inadvertently INCREASED on each side way too much...
and this will tilt the head and over stress the holes, pins and other hardware...
an oddly tilted orange head is OFTEN the result of multiple adjustments while in route, without controlling all variables.
2. or the strut bar tension will be relaxed too much and again stress the holes...
while killing OFF the sway control immediately!
richL posted pics of what can happen IF you play with the struts too much...
those pics are in the users guide too!
and now i leave this thread forever, with a chinese proverb...
"perfect is the enemy of good"