Hensley Arrow hitch

[Dave Jenkins]

I realize this post is 6 months after the original thread was active, but you all have prompted a question: when you talk about using the OCLs to pull the trailer the last 1/2" or so to get a full hookup, do you first raise the tongue jack? Does it cause you any concern to have the no support under the tongue other than a non-latched hitch? Or do you just raise the tongue jack enough to let the trailer move forward, but not so far that the tongue would drop all the way if some nitwit put the car in a forward gear instead of park or reverse? (To my long-suffering wife: no insult intended...) What about the wheel chocks - one person says to leave them in. Won't that make using the OCLs a bit harder?

Just trying to get a mental picture of using the OCLs to aid in the hookup procedure. I'm still turning the air blue at hook up time, and would really like to start getting back in the Big Guy's good graces...

[RoadKingMoe]

I do not raise the tongue jack. I also do not remove the chocks when hitching up. When the truck is backed against the hitch as far as it will go, and I put it in Park, I do not apply the parking brake. At that point, there is enough slop in the truck drivetrain, and slop from the trailer tires being against the rear chocks rather than the front, to let the truck roll back, and/or the trailer roll forward, far enough for the latches to overcenter.

[Dave Jenkins]

Doesn't that put some torque on the tongue jack? Is there enough play in it that nothing bad happens?

Thanks for your help!

[Big Dee]

I find it hardest to get the pitch right. But if it is close, the OCRs will latch it up. It is a pain to loosen the OCR to get it to latch than have to tighten up when bar is all in. It really doens't move much- maybe a 1/2 inch? So not a big deal with the hitch jack. I guess it is the truck that moves since the trailer is chocked.

I find this hitch helper to be invaluable, along with the tongue twister. I recommend it:
http://www.truckxpressions.com/truck...gethitched.htm

[RoadKingMoe]

Nah... nuthin' bad happens.

Hey, thanks Big Dee. Got one of those guides on order now.

[Porky Pig]

Hmmm ... I have noticed that my spring bars will loosen up a bit when towing. I can feel it .. so I get out and tighten them back up again ... but when I get to my destination ... I notice that they have backed off .. or loosened up a bit.

This has just started ... never did it before. What is causing this?

[RoadKingMoe]

The screw jacks are lubricated? Especially at the top under the nut?

That could cause it.

[Porky Pig]

Originally Posted by RoadKingMoe

The screw jacks are lubricated? Especially at the top under the nut?

That could cause it.

Yes ... they are lubricated ... I sprayed them with WD40 as a precaution. Was this a bad move?

[RoadKingMoe]

Friction, especially between the nut on top and the cap, and between the cap and the tube, is what keeps the jack from unscrewing. I'd think you'd want some friction on the screw as well.

[Dave Jenkins]

I talked to Hensley (Jarrod) about the jack "unwinding" (his term for the phenomena). He told me to a) install the jack so that only two holes were open (and visible), and b) tighten bars down to second mark from bottom (I had been using the third mark). He said that the tension only begins to be applied at the third mark.

I did what he recommended before leaving on a four-day trip to Big Bend area of Texas this last weekend. Total mileage was about 1500, and no unwinding was experienced. It's also my impression (subjective, of course) that the trailer rode a lot better. Specifically, there was less "porpoising", as I term it. (That may be due to our superior Texas highways, though...)

HTH

[Porky Pig]

Thanks for the info, Dave ... you might have saved me a phone call.

I've beEn towing on the 3rd mark too .. so I'll crank it down to the 2nd mark when I hitch up Friday morning.

Next stop ... Mount Shasta!

[Big Dee]

Originally Posted by Dave Jenkins

I talked to Hensley (Jarrod) about the jack "unwinding" (his term for the phenomena). He told me to a) install the jack so that only two holes were open (and visible)

I am confused. What part is the "jack" and what holes? Part B I understand. I've been towing in the middle mark.

[Dave Jenkins]

The "jack" is the vertical assembly to which the spring bars are attached at the lower end. When it is installed, it is secured by pins that are inserted thorugh a set of holes that go through the jack (essentially horizontally). You can choose the pin placement, and when the pin is inserted you'll see that there a number of "empty" holes visible between the hole where you inserted the pin and the bottom of the jack.

Here's a link to the Arrow installation manual online:

http://www.nosway.com/Documents/hensleyarrowmanual.pdf

Look at page 7, and you'll see the jacks identified as part #9. Then look at page 12, and you'll see that in their photo they've installed the jack so that there are three empty holes showing (below the adjustment pin and above the pin holding the jack to the spring bar).

One caveat: I am towing a 28' 2004 Classic, using an F350, and these revised settings are working for me. I'm not sure what effect your particular towing combination may have on the proper settings of these adjustments. In other words, YMMV.

Hope this is of some help. If you need more info, feel free to PM me...

[Big Dee]

Ahhh, I understand now. Thanks.

Hey, Hensley has a new manual posted now. I was wondering why the pages referenced above didn't match up. I'll have to read it carefully to see if they added any tips.