Help, I think I'm overhitched!

[m.hony]

Your Equal-i-zer install may be as good as it gets.
I tinkered with mine 2 years till I got it to what I think is as good as it gets.
My trailer rides ever so slightly nose down, but weight transfer and sway control are good.
Your install even looks similar to mine, but I think I have 6 washers.

[xrvr]

See post 18

[kscherzi]

Looks to me like your L brackets are mounted too far forward. I recall the optimum is 32 inches back from center of ball. Mine have 2 or 3 inches sticking past L brackets and never fallen out. I'd also drop the L brackets to get your bars to be parallel to the frame. After this then work on washers.

[m.hony]

I am currently not a supporting member, so I can't post pictures.
My L-brackets are further back at least 2-4 inches from what the OP's are in the picture.
Moving the L-brackets back might smooth out a little harshness.

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by featherbedder

If you are saying need jack to release pressure on bars to disconnect, just do as every body else does, use power jack mounted to front of a frame, raise enough to take weight off bars, or else I don't understand release second chain. If having sway prob. Reese dual cam is either not installed properly or set up properly. I have used old style Reese dual cam since 1977 and never have had sway prob. NEVER even at 70 mph plus. Had to slo down 2 times to 45/50 mph when cross winds were 50 mph plus gusting more than 50 mph. Also if wiggles IMO there is to much weight on rear not enough on front, I base on 65 yrs. plus of towing every thing not just AS only wiggle was hay racks not tow veh.

Hi there Featherbedder;
Re: Using the power jack; it goes up until the drive balls start clicking, and that's where I stop. The foot is on 6" of wooden block.
So I can remove the left side chain fairly easily, but.......
When I release the right hand bar, the effort required is a lot, and the handle will go down to the chain where it press's against the chain very hard.
[I cannot attach a photo here, as I have no idea how to do it, and my laptop is VERY selective about accepting photos. (Only when it feels like it.)]

NOW, I cannot remove the bar or anything else; that's where the scissor jack comes in, to release the chain. Once that is done, the bar will snap down and be free. THEN I can release cables and such to drive away.
BTW. When the rig is sitting level as for travelling, everything is level; the Ford, & the Airstream.

I only have access to a grain elevator scale, on a goodwill basis, but in weighing the thing, the Ford weighed in a 2760 KG. (6,072 #) the whole rig weighed in at 6230 Kg.or 13706 lbs. minus Ford Wt. 6072# =7634# for AS. (Empty weight was 3000Kg. or 6600 lbs.)
My tongue weight (Sherlite scale) was 995 lbs for this trip. at the ball coupler. The fresh water tank was full, and the black tank, 10%. Grey tank '0'. I have no idea of the location of the placement of the tanks, for weight and balance purposes, as The Airstream manual doesn't give the info.
The Reese cam does sit in the middle of the notch on the bar, but there seems to be a little 'play' before the cam will move up on the bar.
(Maybe the 'cam ball' should be larger to sit in the notch better?)
I suspect that's the reason for the 'wiggle' while driving, and the friction pads on the Equalizer would prevent.

[Tyvekcat]

I agree with M. Hony. It took me a while ' fiddling on adjust' of the equalizer.
I have basically the same truck (mine is 4x4) and same hitch, as 'OP', but I have a 28' with a heavy-( beep) tongue.

'Powerarranger' , that should be one smooth riding towing package, two wheel drive truck has lower center of gravity, and the trailer should smooth that ride even further. I'd take the bars off and take a little ride, just to see how it does, then add the bars with the 'L' brackets three or four positions down. Move them up a notch until you can feel it 'helping' going across a bump or swag in the road , bridge transition, until you get rid of the porpoise-ING.

If you have the L brackets jacked up to high, it makes for a 'tight' ride. Like a Jeep with new Bilstein shocks. I have adjusted those brackets at the first three rest stops on I-77 south in NC. Lower the bracket, to loose ( no help) and then take them up one.

Now it is set, and I wouldn't trade my equalizer for any hitch out there and $400 to boot. Its excellent. I don't have a noticeable bow in the bars and only use three washers.

Try that and let us know, I think you're close, just need some time, you will get it worked out,
Have a good one !

[Tyvekcat]

I was looking at your third pic 'Powerarranger' Lower the ball on your hitch. it looks like you have another adjustment and take the ball down one lower setting.
I have the ball on the lowest setting on my Equalizer, and I just adjust the L brackets with the bars.

I agree with 'Loden' yours maybe a little high.
Then put the trailer on it and see if its riding level on level ground, walk out from it and 'eyeball' it.
Have truck level and trailer level to nose down just a tad, add bars and it should bring it back level.

try that, if you like, Just an idea,
have a good one,

[kscherzi]

While we're armchair criticizing your hitch setup [constructively I hope] lets add that the breakaway cable is (1) way too loose, and (2) shouldn't be attached to the hitch.

Lets say that (1) somehow the trailer pops off the ball, yet the breakaway chains hold. In this event you'd want your trailer brakes to activate mainly to keep the trailer in line with your truck and help stop everything as quickly as possible. I'd shorten up that cable to as short as possible to ensure brake activation.

Lets say that (2) your entire hitch is ripped from the truck due to all that force the trailer and weight distribution hitch is placing upon it. In this case there's nothing to activate your trailer brakes, so then the whole thing careens across the road, into opposing traffic prior to rolling off a cliff and exploding into ball of flame upon impact.

Recommend finding a attachment place, say near the license plate, then cutting the wire to minimum necessary length to still be able to make a sharp turn.

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by MelGoddard

Hi there Featherbedder;
Re: Using the power jack; it goes up until the drive balls start clicking, and that's where I stop. The foot is on 6" of wooden block.
So I can remove the left side chain fairly easily, but.......
When I release the right hand bar, the effort required is a lot, and the handle will go down to the chain where it press's against the chain very hard.
[I cannot attach a photo here, as I have no idea how to do it, and my laptop is VERY selective about accepting photos. (Only when it feels like it.)]

NOW, I cannot remove the bar or anything else; that's where the scissor jack comes in, to release the chain. Once that is done, the bar will snap down and be free. THEN I can release cables and such to drive away.
BTW. When the rig is sitting level as for travelling, everything is level; the Ford, & the Airstream.

I only have access to a grain elevator scale, on a goodwill basis, but in weighing the thing, the Ford weighed in a 2760 KG. (6,072 #) the whole rig weighed in at 6230 Kg.or 13706 lbs. minus Ford Wt. 6072# =7634# for AS. (Empty weight was 3000Kg. or 6600 lbs.)
My tongue weight (Sherlite scale) was 995 lbs for this trip. at the ball coupler. The fresh water tank was full, and the black tank, 10%. Grey tank '0'. I have no idea of the location of the placement of the tanks, for weight and balance purposes, as The Airstream manual doesn't give the info.
The Reese cam does sit in the middle of the notch on the bar, but there seems to be a little 'play' before the cam will move up on the bar.
(Maybe the 'cam ball' should be larger to sit in the notch better?)
I suspect that's the reason for the 'wiggle' while driving, and the friction pads on the Equalizer (see below) would prevent.

Correction on the Hitch; It's an "Eze-lift" with Husky friction bars. OOPS!

[Powerarrangr]

Wow, I really appreciate all of the responses to this thread!

I don't have much time, I'll try to address everything - bear with me...

To recap, I adjusted the hitch on smooth, level pavement. I followed the instructions and got the trailer nice and level by adjusting the head on the shank - lots of trial and error as I had to set up the bars and check the fenderwell deflection on the truck as well. So technically, without weighing the rig, I'm pretty close. Trouble is, as many have noted, the bars are pretty tight. Loosen the bars, more weight off of the front axle. Aside from the harsh ride, the rig handles beautifully.

I'll try to get a weight tomorrow or the next day. Weighing will be expensive, as the CAT scale folks here are NOT helpful and don't really understand the concept of reweighing. I plan to do the three-step method as outlined earlier - I really want to see those numbers and share them with you.

I agree completely with the comments regarding the breakaway cable. I'm going to rig a fitting on the rear frame crossmember so I can connect the cable without crawling under the truck, just need one of them round tuits. Also plan to trim and re-swage as suggested for proper length.

I raised the ball one notch to get the trailer level when fully hitched. I need to take a better picture to show this - the picture was taken out in the yard on uneven pavement and the truck normally sits lower in the front.

I'll also get a tongue weight. I replaced the stock batteries with four 6V AGM golf cart batteries which now live under the bed. I'm sure that may have something to do with this.

Thanks for all of the suggestions - keep 'em coming!

[featherbedder]

Originally Posted by MelGoddard

Hi there Featherbedder;
Re: Using the power jack; it goes up until the drive balls start clicking, and that's where I stop. The foot is on 6" of wooden block.
So I can remove the left side chain fairly easily, but.......
When I release the right hand bar, the effort required is a lot, and the handle will go down to the chain where it press's against the chain very hard.
[I cannot attach a photo here, as I have no idea how to do it, and my laptop is VERY selective about accepting photos. (Only when it feels like it.)]

NOW, I cannot remove the bar or anything else; that's where the scissor jack comes in, to release the chain. Once that is done, the bar will snap down and be free. THEN I can release cables and such to drive away.
BTW. When the rig is sitting level as for travelling, everything is level; the Ford, & the Airstream.

I only have access to a grain elevator scale, on a goodwill basis, but in weighing the thing, the Ford weighed in a 2760 KG. (6,072 #) the whole rig weighed in at 6230 Kg.or 13706 lbs. minus Ford Wt. 6072# =7634# for AS. (Empty weight was 3000Kg. or 6600 lbs.)
My tongue weight (Sherlite scale) was 995 lbs for this trip. at the ball coupler. The fresh water tank was full, and the black tank, 10%. Grey tank '0'. I have no idea of the location of the placement of the tanks, for weight and balance purposes, as The Airstream manual doesn't give the info.
The Reese cam does sit in the middle of the notch on the bar, but there seems to be a little 'play' before the cam will move up on the bar.
(Maybe the 'cam ball' should be larger to sit in the notch better?)
I suspect that's the reason for the 'wiggle' while driving, and the friction pads on the Equalizer would prevent.

If still cannot release second chain with out jack are you trying to drop snap ups by hand? I use motor cycle fork tube to drop snap ups instead of piece of pipe, some times second bar has pressure but pipe easily releases pressure. Are all components of hitch Reese? As some thing does not sound rite there should not be wiggle.

[HowieE]

Originally Posted by Powerarrangr

Wow, I really appreciate all of the responses to this thread!

I don't have much time, I'll try to address everything - bear with me...

To recap, I adjusted the hitch on smooth, level pavement. I followed the instructions and got the trailer nice and level by adjusting the head on the shank - lots of trial and error as I had to set up the bars and check the fenderwell deflection on the truck as well. So technically, without weighing the rig, I'm pretty close. Trouble is, as many have noted, the bars are pretty tight. Loosen the bars, more weight off of the front axle. Aside from the harsh ride, the rig handles beautifully.

I'll try to get a weight tomorrow or the next day. Weighing will be expensive, as the CAT scale folks here are NOT helpful and don't really understand the concept of reweighing. I plan to do the three-step method as outlined earlier - I really want to see those numbers and share them with you.

I agree completely with the comments regarding the breakaway cable. I'm going to rig a fitting on the rear frame crossmember so I can connect the cable without crawling under the truck, just need one of them round tuits. Also plan to trim and re-swage as suggested for proper length.

I raised the ball one notch to get the trailer level when fully hitched. I need to take a better picture to show this - the picture was taken out in the yard on uneven pavement and the truck normally sits lower in the front.

I'll also get a tongue weight. I replaced the stock batteries with four 6V AGM golf cart batteries which now live under the bed. I'm sure that may have something to do with this.

Thanks for all of the suggestions - keep 'em coming!

You might want to route your umbilical and breakaway cables as shown. This puts them at the pivot point of the hitch and keeps them from possibility getting caught when turning. The clip holds them in place.

[m.hony]

If you were closer to me in Mississippi I would help you dial your hitch setup in.
It took 2 years to get it where I wanted it the first time.
I can probably get it done in a day the next time.


Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums

[Tn Traveler]

I have switched to the 16" LTX tires. I also experimented with 1000# bars on my WDH. Towing with a 3/4 ton Chevy Suburban the 1000# bars seemed much to stiff. So, went back to the 750# bars. Much more comfortable ride, and seemingly easier on the trailer. I am now experimenting with tire pressures for best towing, but also sway control. LTX tires need the right pressure for ride and sidewall stiffness needed for sway control.

[m.hony]

I set mine up when I had the original 15" wheels.
I did not change or adjust anything when I switched to 16" wheels and LT tires.
In theory, the trailer should have raised 1/2", but I can't tell that it sits any higher.
1/2" higher 20' or more back didn't really effect much.
The sway control and weight distribution are still there.

[Powerarrangr]

...my tongue weight is 1350 lbs!!

The rig was weighed with both propane tanks full, fresh tank full, grey and black tanks empty. Full tank of fuel in the truck, not much else in the bed. Subtracting the truck from the total rig weight, the trailer weighs in about 6800. Max weight for this trailer is 7200 according to the placard, although it has two 3800 lb axles. I don't like to run too heavy if I can avoid it.

After visiting the CAT scales I was thinking the tongue was heavy with a 1K difference on the drive axle (see pics). I went to the local RV place and we checked the tongue with a load cell.

So the solar upgrade with four golf cart batteries under the bed is probably not helping. I need to figure out how to push some weight aft and lose a few pounds. I haven't even started loading for full timing yet.

I dropped the L-brackets one notch and the rig tows fine. Haven't gotten a weigh with this latest change, though.

Thoughts? (Flame suit ON)

[SpletKay06]

Your weights on the third photo are very close to mine. But im using an Anderson wd hitch and towing with a half ton.

[dbj216]

I'm quite surprised at that tongue weight. Maybe you can figure out a way to get some weight moved back to the axles. 12% of your total trailer weight is enough on the tongue, like 850 lbs. You don't suppose the RV place tongue load was out of calibration?

You are making progress now that you have the data.

David

[GammaDog]

I'm confused. Trust me, this happens a lot. I am quite sure the feeling I have is confusion.

Am I correct that the three new CAT weights you posted are the same method as before and have the same configuration as your RV shop weighed to get the 1,350 tongue weight?

The first weight ticket shows the truck alone at 7,280 lbs. I'm assuming this is full fuel, with passengers, camping gear in the bed, etc..

The second ticket (wth the trailer axles at 5,700 lbs.) should be the truck and trailer without the weight bars doing their WD thing. In that pass, the two axles of the truck weigh 8,380 lbs (that's 3,560 + 4,820).

Tongue weight imposed by the trailer is customarily measured as the difference between the total truck weight between those two passes. That is 8,380 - 7,280 which is 1,100 lbs.. My truck manufacturer (Toyota) wants me to add the weight of cargo in the truck bed behind the rear axle to determine "tongue weight" versus their maximum, but that's a refinement and Ram may use a different method to include cargo weight.

So... at what point did your RV guy measure? If it was under the trailer tongue jack? That's an interesting data point, but generally irrelevant to actual WD hitch set up.

You have id'd some potential causes and solutions. The batteries are a huge hit to total weight and tongue weight. Faced with a similar challenge, I stuck with the Interstate 12V SRM24 which are way lighter. I carry a third battery (an SRM27) in a plastic battery box and installed Anderson Power 12v quick disconnects to the trailer, the battery and my solar controller (I put 2x100 watt panels on the ground when I want solar). That arrangement lets me keep the additional battery weight where I want it when not needed (e.g. In the front of the truck bed or the back of the trailer) and still have the capacity when I need it (like dry camping below freezing as we did in Utah in May).

Anyway, I'm not sure you have a problem. I would trust your scale data way above a measurement at the tongue jack. I did not run your other numbers through my spreadsheet, but they eyeball well (your FALR is just under 100% for example. That's precisely what I shoot for).

I think you can put your flame suit in the closet while you digest this. Fire away with questions.

[Powerarrangr]

Thanks so much to all of you for your sage advice! I'm open to all ideas.

Here's a breakdown of the weights taken:

1st pic: truck alone
Steer - 4000
Drive - 3280
Trailer - N/A

2nd pic no WD
Steer - 3560
Drive - 4820
Trailer - 5700

3rd pic with WD
Steer - 3980
Drive - 4200
Trailer - 5880


The steer axle has about a 420 lb difference between with and without the spring bars.

The drive axle has a 1540 lb difference between the truck alone and hitched to the trailer with no WD.

The RV guy used one of those little Sherline scales. I don't think it was grossly inaccurate because the difference in the drive axle weight with and without the trailer hitched.

Yes, I did weigh the tongue using the jack and not the hitch, so that may have made the reading meaningless. The guy didn't use a hitch adapter, so I figured this was good enough. Either way, I'm certain that I need to get at least 400 lbs off of that tongue!

There's that little cubby about a foot farther aft under the bed and I'm going to attempt to move the batteries back there. Not sure how much that will help but there's really no place else for the batteries to go without a complete redesign of the system.

Other than moving batteries, I'm not sure what I can do here. I'm installing a recliner in the curbside dinette position and moving storage towards the rear. All of this extra tongue weight is going to overload the front axle, right?

I don't want to remove any batteries if I can help it - I'll be mostly boondocking and I like the extra electrical headroom that four batteries provide.

I'll take some pictures tomorrow to give you a better idea of what's going on.