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Old 06-26-2016, 02:55 PM   #15
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.......Here are the CAT numbers I got on my weigh back from FL back in Feb. This was a slightly different setup - 4 washers and L-brackets up one notch:

Steer: 3800
Drive: 4380
Trailer: 5820
TOTAL: 14,000

You'll need a TV alone weight, loaded for camping, full fuel.....a hitched weight with no WD and a weight with WD set.

Our Burb...



Then a weight with NO WD.............................................and a weight with WD set.



Notice that with WD set our steering axle weight is within 100lb of the TV alone steering axle weight. with a LEVEL TV & AS.

Sweet Streams...


Bob
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Old 06-26-2016, 03:10 PM   #16
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We use the ANDERSON hitch, did 9,000 miles last season without a problem, (The ground-breaking Andersen "No-Sway" "No-Bounce" Weight Distribution Hitch).

Wife can hook-up and un-hook, I really like it.
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Old 06-26-2016, 03:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MelGoddard View Post
Last year, I traded in MY 2015 25'FB for a 2016 30' FC DUE to the 25 ft'er being uncomfortable and UN suitable.
It HAD the Equalizer hitch installed by Andy at CanAm, which seemed alright
I decided to go for a Reese dual cam for the newer FC and swapped them.
BAD MOVE!
The TV, a Ford F 150 wiggles down the highway like a snake that's tied to a lamp cord.
And to remove it requires a small scissor jack to release the second chain.

Next week the FC GOES back to CanAm to have the Reese removed and the Equalizer reinstalled.

BTW: The 30'er is comfortable and just perfect for the two of us Even the wife is happy in it, and she had been my grouchy critic in the past.

Part of the learning curve, I guess.
If you are saying need jack to release pressure on bars to disconnect, just do as every body else does, use power jack mounted to front of a frame, raise enough to take weight off bars, or else I don't understand release second chain. If having sway prob. Reese dual cam is either not installed properly or set up properly. I have used old style Reese dual cam since 1977 and never have had sway prob. NEVER even at 70 mph plus. Had to slo down 2 times to 45/50 mph when cross winds were 50 mph plus gusting more than 50 mph. Also if wiggles IMO there is to much weight on rear not enough on front, I base on 65 yrs. plus of towing every thing not just AS only wiggle was hay racks not tow veh.
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Old 06-26-2016, 03:44 PM   #18
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Most heavy trucks need a load to run smoother which makes setting up a WD hitch different. The trailer weight drops my truck about two inches in the rear. The ride is smooth there. I set the ball height to that level so when the trailer is on the hitch it drops another two inches from there. Using the bars I can raise it to the first setting which gives me a smooth ride, level trailer, limited WD and only an inch or two raise in the front . This is a one ton. This set up gives me sway control and some WD,but I seldom use this setup. Most of the time I tow on the ball with two sway control bars.
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Old 06-26-2016, 04:54 PM   #19
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I plugged the three sets of weights into the spreadsheet I use for my own analysis. I don't have the axle, tire and vehicle limits for your truck, so I can't comment on those. As for the others, your tongue weight is 1,140 lbs which suggests the 1,000 lb bars on your Equal-i-zer are a reasonable choice. 1,200 lb bars would actually be recommended based on conventional guidance given your trailer's tongue weight. For all the reasons you've cited, the conventional guidance may not get you what you want on your 2500.

The WD setup method I use is known as Front Axle Load Restoration (FALR). This approach starts by comparing the front axle weights of the truck alone with the hitched trailer and no WD to see how much load is removed. For you, that is 3.740-2,960=780 lbs.. The guidance is to adjust WD to restore between 50% and 100% of the lost weight. Your measurements return 87% ((3,640-2,960)/(3,740-2,960)) which is comfortably within that range. Note that the common approach to measuring the front wheel well height is a cruder version of FALR. I've never felt a tape measure on an asphalt parking lot gives the precision this task deserves.

Additionally, your WD setup as measured is moving 160 lbs to the trailer axles.

One other data point in your runs is tongue weight as a % of total trailer weight. Your trailer weights 8480 lbs. tongue weight is 1140. That is 13.2% tongue weight. Most guidance us to have tongue weight between 10 and 15% of trailer weight. You're good on that data point, too.

With the caveats of not knowing your vehicle and tire limits, the other parameters look good to me and give you some wiggle room to adjust the hitch as folks have suggested and see if you like the handling and ride any better. Do I recall that these weights were your prior setup and you added washers since then? Additional WD would increase FALR.
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Old 06-26-2016, 09:54 PM   #20
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We pull a 27' Eddie Bauer with a Chevy 2500 and the Equalizer is a dream for us. Just looking at your picture, it looks to me as if you have too many washers in the hitch. The problem with the standard method for determining how many washers to put in the hitch is that it assumes something like 1/2 ton TV. 3/4 ton trucks ride butt-high with no load. After hooking up your truck rear bumper should be down closer to a level position, which is to say, the hook up should cause your rear fender to drop a half inch to inch.

The best way to check the balance is to drive it around. If it feels too stiff and like your truck has a rod up its rear end, then you have too much weight distribution applied. If it feels like you are driving an overloaded truck, then you have too little. I had to use trial and error but wound up with three washers when the school book solution was six. The AS pulls like a dream.

With the AS attached, I do need to crank the headlamps down a bit, just under 1 1/8 turns on the elevation screw, to keep from blinding folks, so the tongue weight does indeed drop the bed, but that is how it should be.

As for using the trailer jack to get the bars in their saddles, that is absolutely normal. The Equalizer comes with a tool for levering them up into place, but it is far easier to merely crank up the jack and slide them in .
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Old 06-27-2016, 09:35 AM   #21
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Your Equal-i-zer install may be as good as it gets.
I tinkered with mine 2 years till I got it to what I think is as good as it gets.
My trailer rides ever so slightly nose down, but weight transfer and sway control are good.
Your install even looks similar to mine, but I think I have 6 washers.
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Old 06-27-2016, 09:56 AM   #22
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See post 18
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Old 06-27-2016, 10:02 AM   #23
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Looks to me like your L brackets are mounted too far forward. I recall the optimum is 32 inches back from center of ball. Mine have 2 or 3 inches sticking past L brackets and never fallen out. I'd also drop the L brackets to get your bars to be parallel to the frame. After this then work on washers.
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Old 06-27-2016, 10:52 AM   #24
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I am currently not a supporting member, so I can't post pictures.
My L-brackets are further back at least 2-4 inches from what the OP's are in the picture.
Moving the L-brackets back might smooth out a little harshness.
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Old 06-27-2016, 11:22 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by featherbedder View Post
If you are saying need jack to release pressure on bars to disconnect, just do as every body else does, use power jack mounted to front of a frame, raise enough to take weight off bars, or else I don't understand release second chain. If having sway prob. Reese dual cam is either not installed properly or set up properly. I have used old style Reese dual cam since 1977 and never have had sway prob. NEVER even at 70 mph plus. Had to slo down 2 times to 45/50 mph when cross winds were 50 mph plus gusting more than 50 mph. Also if wiggles IMO there is to much weight on rear not enough on front, I base on 65 yrs. plus of towing every thing not just AS only wiggle was hay racks not tow veh.
Hi there Featherbedder;
Re: Using the power jack; it goes up until the drive balls start clicking, and that's where I stop. The foot is on 6" of wooden block.
So I can remove the left side chain fairly easily, but.......
When I release the right hand bar, the effort required is a lot, and the handle will go down to the chain where it press's against the chain very hard.
[I cannot attach a photo here, as I have no idea how to do it, and my laptop is VERY selective about accepting photos. (Only when it feels like it.)]

NOW, I cannot remove the bar or anything else; that's where the scissor jack comes in, to release the chain. Once that is done, the bar will snap down and be free. THEN I can release cables and such to drive away.
BTW. When the rig is sitting level as for travelling, everything is level; the Ford, & the Airstream.

I only have access to a grain elevator scale, on a goodwill basis, but in weighing the thing, the Ford weighed in a 2760 KG. (6,072 #) the whole rig weighed in at 6230 Kg.or 13706 lbs. minus Ford Wt. 6072# =7634# for AS. (Empty weight was 3000Kg. or 6600 lbs.)
My tongue weight (Sherlite scale) was 995 lbs for this trip. at the ball coupler. The fresh water tank was full, and the black tank, 10%. Grey tank '0'. I have no idea of the location of the placement of the tanks, for weight and balance purposes, as The Airstream manual doesn't give the info.
The Reese cam does sit in the middle of the notch on the bar, but there seems to be a little 'play' before the cam will move up on the bar.
(Maybe the 'cam ball' should be larger to sit in the notch better?)
I suspect that's the reason for the 'wiggle' while driving, and the friction pads on the Equalizer would prevent.
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Old 06-27-2016, 12:43 PM   #26
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L Brackets maybe high,

I agree with M. Hony. It took me a while ' fiddling on adjust' of the equalizer.
I have basically the same truck (mine is 4x4) and same hitch, as 'OP', but I have a 28' with a heavy-( beep) tongue.

'Powerarranger' , that should be one smooth riding towing package, two wheel drive truck has lower center of gravity, and the trailer should smooth that ride even further. I'd take the bars off and take a little ride, just to see how it does, then add the bars with the 'L' brackets three or four positions down. Move them up a notch until you can feel it 'helping' going across a bump or swag in the road , bridge transition, until you get rid of the porpoise-ING.

If you have the L brackets jacked up to high, it makes for a 'tight' ride. Like a Jeep with new Bilstein shocks. I have adjusted those brackets at the first three rest stops on I-77 south in NC. Lower the bracket, to loose ( no help) and then take them up one.

Now it is set, and I wouldn't trade my equalizer for any hitch out there and $400 to boot. Its excellent. I don't have a noticeable bow in the bars and only use three washers.

Try that and let us know, I think you're close, just need some time, you will get it worked out,
Have a good one !
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Old 06-27-2016, 01:24 PM   #27
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ball height

I was looking at your third pic 'Powerarranger' Lower the ball on your hitch. it looks like you have another adjustment and take the ball down one lower setting.
I have the ball on the lowest setting on my Equalizer, and I just adjust the L brackets with the bars.

I agree with 'Loden' yours maybe a little high.
Then put the trailer on it and see if its riding level on level ground, walk out from it and 'eyeball' it.
Have truck level and trailer level to nose down just a tad, add bars and it should bring it back level.

try that, if you like, Just an idea,
have a good one,
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Old 06-27-2016, 04:08 PM   #28
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While we're armchair criticizing your hitch setup [constructively I hope] lets add that the breakaway cable is (1) way too loose, and (2) shouldn't be attached to the hitch.

Lets say that (1) somehow the trailer pops off the ball, yet the breakaway chains hold. In this event you'd want your trailer brakes to activate mainly to keep the trailer in line with your truck and help stop everything as quickly as possible. I'd shorten up that cable to as short as possible to ensure brake activation.

Lets say that (2) your entire hitch is ripped from the truck due to all that force the trailer and weight distribution hitch is placing upon it. In this case there's nothing to activate your trailer brakes, so then the whole thing careens across the road, into opposing traffic prior to rolling off a cliff and exploding into ball of flame upon impact.

Recommend finding a attachment place, say near the license plate, then cutting the wire to minimum necessary length to still be able to make a sharp turn.
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