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10-19-2014, 04:39 PM
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#21
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Builder of Diesel Jeeps
2014 28' International
Sedona
, Arizona
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 226
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Norms RV down the hill in Poway. Two years ago, and I could've been to you in 15 minutes.
__________________
14 Serenity 28'
15 Grand Cherokee EcoD
#5261
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10-20-2014, 02:57 PM
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#22
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2 Rivet Member
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Newbury Park
, California
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 34
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Many thanks to all, we made it 150 miles with the setup you see in the attached picture. All I needed was my rachet set to fix. She actually drove fairly well, just wandering a bit without that sway control. I promise to be more active on the forum to pay back all your good will! Best , Todd
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10-20-2014, 03:10 PM
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#23
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Slowpoke
2012 27' Flying Cloud
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 255
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That tierod probably broke due to improper setup. I can see from the photo you just posted that your chain snap hooks are not in the correct place. The chain from the hook to the bar end should be perpendicular to the frame rail.
The Reese / DrawTite straight-line system works well, but is a bit fiddly to set up properly. Broken tie rods, cold-welded parts, and galling are common if the unit isn't set up right. When we bought our 27, the dealer set it up wrong and, as usual, I fixed it. Mr. Fixit, my wife calls me...
__________________
Like the tortoise, travelin' slow with the house on our back
2012 FC27FB "Ted Zeppelin"
2010 Tundra Crewmax Platinum "Silver Rhino"
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10-20-2014, 03:13 PM
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#24
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2 Rivet Member
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Newbury Park
, California
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 34
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I suspected that, it was a bit better with the tierod but still not perpendicular as you suggest. Will follow up. Thank you.
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10-20-2014, 03:46 PM
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#25
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4 Rivet Member
Livingston
, Texas
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gnorts
That tierod probably broke due to improper setup. I can see from the photo you just posted that your chain snap hooks are not in the correct place. The chain from the hook to the bar end should be perpendicular to the frame rail.
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If you are referring to the photo in Post #22 -- that is not how the chain would have been attached when the cam arm broke.
The bottom of the chain would have been inline with the center of the cam.
It looks to me as though the chain would have been pretty close to vertical.
I doubt that chain angle had anything to do with the failure of the cam arm.
Ron
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10-20-2014, 11:04 PM
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#26
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Slowpoke
2012 27' Flying Cloud
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 255
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You're right, of course, I forgot about the tab on the end of the cam not being there. The misaligned chain wouldn't have mattered much for 135 miles. What do you suppose caused the failure?
__________________
Like the tortoise, travelin' slow with the house on our back
2012 FC27FB "Ted Zeppelin"
2010 Tundra Crewmax Platinum "Silver Rhino"
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10-21-2014, 07:13 AM
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#27
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Overland Adventurer
1991 34' Excella
2009 34' Panamerica
Telluride
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 2,476
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Chineesium metal....
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10-23-2014, 08:46 AM
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#28
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Overland Adventurer
1991 34' Excella
2009 34' Panamerica
Telluride
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 2,476
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I was studying your photos. It appears that the side that failed had some funny seating happening. It looks as though only one side if the spring bar is sitting correctly in the saddle. Also it would appear that the end of the spring bar is riding up out if the cam and making contact with the shoulder if the cam. You can see the marks in the metal in your photo. Also, you say this is a 2006 hitch? You have little if any wear on the cams, there should be at least some wear from friction between the saddle (spring bars) and the cams. I think you don't have enough tension on the bars. There needs to be a good amount if tension in order for the sway control to work! Often times folks don't crank these tight enough to really be effective!
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10-23-2014, 09:45 AM
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#29
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2 Rivet Member
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Newbury Park
, California
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 34
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Thank you so much! I believe this is the same conclusion that my repair guy has come to!
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10-24-2014, 06:49 AM
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#30
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Rivet Master
1996 34' Excella
Elberta
, Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtomicNo13
I was studying your photos. It appears that the side that failed had some funny seating happening. It looks as though only one side if the spring bar is sitting correctly in the saddle. Also it would appear that the end of the spring bar is riding up out if the cam and making contact with the shoulder if the cam. You can see the marks in the metal in your photo. Also, you say this is a 2006 hitch? You have little if any wear on the cams, there should be at least some wear from friction between the saddle (spring bars) and the cams. I think you don't have enough tension on the bars. There needs to be a good amount if tension in order for the sway control to work! Often times folks don't crank these tight enough to really be effective!
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It might be added, if there isn't enough tension on the trunnion bars, the sway control feature won't work as design, also the weight distribution won't be properly adjusted.
I wonder if the bars are too heavy? What is the weight rating on them? Many dealers don't pay attention to these ratings. When I bought my new "Straight Line", it came with 1,200 pound bars, I bought a pair of 800 bars.
Larry C
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10-24-2014, 07:46 AM
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#31
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Overland Adventurer
1991 34' Excella
2009 34' Panamerica
Telluride
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 2,476
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I too changed the rating of my bars, at least on the classic. I went from 1200 to 800 and it just follows like a dream, I literally cannot feel it back there, period! On the other hand my PanAm is just a big oaf back there, sometimes 1200 is perfect, sometimes 800 is perfect. The load is a constant.
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10-24-2014, 07:59 AM
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#32
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
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, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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When you get the replacement part and go to set up the sway control again, make sure the chain is over the weight bar. Putting the chain outside the bar, as you had it, will cause a bind on the part that broke, because it is not even, it's offset to the outside edge.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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10-24-2014, 08:02 AM
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#33
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Overland Adventurer
1991 34' Excella
2009 34' Panamerica
Telluride
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 2,476
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I might also add....
Check the mounting of the cam arm brackets. It is vital they be mounted flush with the bottom the frame rail, if not the spring bar end won't sti/ride level on the cam.
I also suggest you really rev up the tension on those chains. I thing your system is not working as there isn't enough tension being applied!
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10-25-2014, 06:45 AM
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#34
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Rivet Master
1996 34' Excella
Elberta
, Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 837
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You want those bars to bend somewhere around 1" to 2" to get the weight distribution, and make the sway control work the way it should.
Those bars were made to bend, supposedly up to 5" or so...
For whatever it's worth.
Larry C
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10-25-2014, 06:48 AM
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#35
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Rivet Master
1996 34' Excella
Elberta
, Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtomicNo13
I too changed the rating of my bars, at least on the classic. I went from 1200 to 800 and it just follows like a dream, I literally cannot feel it back there, period! On the other hand my PanAm is just a big oaf back there, sometimes 1200 is perfect, sometimes 800 is perfect. The load is a constant.
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I did the same as you mentioned. My new hitch had the 1,200# bars, they were way too heavy. Went to the 800#, those, plus the AirSafe hitch, make for an extremely smooth towing process.
Life is good!
Larry C
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10-25-2014, 08:43 AM
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#36
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Overland Adventurer
1991 34' Excella
2009 34' Panamerica
Telluride
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 2,476
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I think an Airsafe is my next new toy!
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10-26-2014, 09:45 AM
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#37
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Rivet Master
1996 34' Excella
Elberta
, Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtomicNo13
I think an Airsafe is my next new toy!
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Once you have one, you'll realize what you've missed. If you wonder if they work or not, sometime when you are towing over a road with a few "bumps", turn on your backup camera!
First time I did that, it scared the hell out of me! I became a "disciple" of AirSafe from that point on.
For whatever it's worth.
Larry C
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11-04-2014, 07:25 PM
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#38
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2 Rivet Member
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Newbury Park
, California
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 34
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I'm not sure what weight rating is on those bars but will check when I pick up my trailer this weekend. Will get better tension on there and perhaps I too am in the market for an airsafe hitch--is there a particular model I should be focusing on?
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11-05-2014, 06:26 AM
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#39
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Rivet Master
1996 34' Excella
Elberta
, Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bunnyfamily
I'm not sure what weight rating is on those bars but will check when I pick up my trailer this weekend. Will get better tension on there and perhaps I too am in the market for an airsafe hitch--is there a particular model I should be focusing on?
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Mine is a Class 5, more than adequate for any Airstream. I would advise you to call Airsafe, and go y their advice. They are very knowledgeable, and good to deal with...
Larry C
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