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Old 10-19-2014, 05:01 PM   #15
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No tension on only one side, that can make sway worse. You'll be fine without sway control, WD is more important, non uniformity is not a friend..... You'll be just fine, just take it easy!
Call us when you arrive home!
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Old 10-19-2014, 05:03 PM   #16
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This is the nice thing about this system, you have a backup/fail safe system with you without carrying extra parts!
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Old 10-19-2014, 05:08 PM   #17
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Do not tow with an asymetric setup! Reese hitches are fairly common so there must be several dealers nearby. You certainly don't need to get to an AS dealer to get this fixed.

Worst case, tow without using the Reese WD setup (i.e., just the plain ball) and stay off the highway and keep your speed under 45. Sounds like you are about 3 hours from home at that speed so no biggie.

Better safe than sorry!

Best of luck.
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Old 10-19-2014, 05:09 PM   #18
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Help! Broken sway bar

The photo you posted is precisely what I suggested, you might have to play with your chains to get enough lift, but really not critical to get you home.
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Old 10-19-2014, 05:16 PM   #19
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The camping world here has those in stock. You will probably need to buy a whole straight line set with both sides in it. I bought a extra set for my second trailer. I would think something must be wrong with the setup to have that happen? Did it happen backing in a tight turn?
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Old 10-19-2014, 05:19 PM   #20
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This is a common failure, warranted limited lifetime. Call Cequent and a replacement will be rushed to you!
I just had an entire Straightline handed to me after a part broke on a 30 year old Reese Dual Cam hitch.
Camping world is an authorized Reese dealer even if you're not a Good Sam member
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Old 10-19-2014, 05:39 PM   #21
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Norms RV down the hill in Poway. Two years ago, and I could've been to you in 15 minutes.
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Old 10-20-2014, 03:57 PM   #22
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Many thanks to all, we made it 150 miles with the setup you see in the attached picture. All I needed was my rachet set to fix. She actually drove fairly well, just wandering a bit without that sway control. I promise to be more active on the forum to pay back all your good will! Best , Todd Click image for larger version

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Old 10-20-2014, 04:10 PM   #23
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That tierod probably broke due to improper setup. I can see from the photo you just posted that your chain snap hooks are not in the correct place. The chain from the hook to the bar end should be perpendicular to the frame rail.

The Reese / DrawTite straight-line system works well, but is a bit fiddly to set up properly. Broken tie rods, cold-welded parts, and galling are common if the unit isn't set up right. When we bought our 27, the dealer set it up wrong and, as usual, I fixed it. Mr. Fixit, my wife calls me...
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Old 10-20-2014, 04:13 PM   #24
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I suspected that, it was a bit better with the tierod but still not perpendicular as you suggest. Will follow up. Thank you.
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Old 10-20-2014, 04:46 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gnorts View Post
That tierod probably broke due to improper setup. I can see from the photo you just posted that your chain snap hooks are not in the correct place. The chain from the hook to the bar end should be perpendicular to the frame rail.
If you are referring to the photo in Post #22 -- that is not how the chain would have been attached when the cam arm broke.

The bottom of the chain would have been inline with the center of the cam.
It looks to me as though the chain would have been pretty close to vertical.
I doubt that chain angle had anything to do with the failure of the cam arm.

Ron
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Old 10-21-2014, 12:04 AM   #26
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You're right, of course, I forgot about the tab on the end of the cam not being there. The misaligned chain wouldn't have mattered much for 135 miles. What do you suppose caused the failure?
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Old 10-21-2014, 08:13 AM   #27
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Chineesium metal....
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Old 10-23-2014, 09:46 AM   #28
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I was studying your photos. It appears that the side that failed had some funny seating happening. It looks as though only one side if the spring bar is sitting correctly in the saddle. Also it would appear that the end of the spring bar is riding up out if the cam and making contact with the shoulder if the cam. You can see the marks in the metal in your photo. Also, you say this is a 2006 hitch? You have little if any wear on the cams, there should be at least some wear from friction between the saddle (spring bars) and the cams. I think you don't have enough tension on the bars. There needs to be a good amount if tension in order for the sway control to work! Often times folks don't crank these tight enough to really be effective!
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