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Old 11-13-2016, 01:24 PM   #41
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A BIG problem with a dry hitch is making a left turn a LOT of pressure is applied to the ball and over time can actually unscrew the ball.

You should check the ball for tightness every time you hookup.
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Old 11-15-2016, 05:59 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by richw46 View Post
Air tools / impact wrenches can be used for torqueing. The problem is that if you keep the trigger pulled, it will keep hammering and exceed the torque amount set for the tool. Available air pressure will also affect the torque.

From what I could research, air tools/impact wrenches are built for a specific torque amount and need to be periodically calibrated for that amount, at least for the smaller wrenches used for finer work. They cannot accurately be used for different torque amounts. You can use a torque stick on the impact wrench to control it. HF has them. They have a set that goes from 65 ft. lbs. to 150 ft. lbs. I don't know of any that will go up to 320 ft. lbs. for the Equalizer hitch.

But if you just have the impact wrench and keep the wrench hammering away, or if you use a cheater bar on a wrench and use the good old 'tongue in cheek' guesstimate, you're still not going to get an accurate reading.


THAT Sir, is Republican American 'Piggy Poop'!
Those 'Tork Stix' have the accuracy of a bundle of oil soaked spaghetti. (Ask me how I know.)

General torquing is well done with a torque wrench.
Other methods are;
: measuring stretch with a micrometer,
Or using 'Pre-load' indicating washers, OR 'angle torquing',or two other methods that I forget.

Stay with a calibrated torque wrench.
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Old 11-15-2016, 06:11 PM   #43
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My old R.C.A.F. Sgt. Told us:
" If it moves, grease it; if it doesn't move, paint it"
"If it talks back, salute it".

Sounds good to me.
Trailer Trash. .....'
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Old 11-15-2016, 06:18 PM   #44
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I think the best outcome of this thread is confirming grease on hitch ball. This is a link to grease sold by one of the most well known hitch names http://www.reeseprod.com/products/hi...8OaGHduyxF9FGH I'm not promoting this brand, just using their name and sales to help support the apply grease here --> HITCH BALL.

But possibly more important, getting folks to question the assumption that their hitch ball is tight and discussing how to do it.

Carry on. Or prove its tight and lubed.
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Old 11-15-2016, 06:31 PM   #45
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Did my wipe off the grease at unhitch and add grease at hitch up this weekend. Worked well. It's my new standard. No more grease on pants - maybe. Pat
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Old 11-15-2016, 06:52 PM   #46
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I learned from this forum many moons ago - to clean off ball and WD bars and lightly grease on every trip. My balls and joints are still great and have never given me a problem.
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Old 11-17-2016, 11:03 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MelGoddard View Post
THAT Sir, is Republican American 'Piggy Poop'!
Those 'Tork Stix' have the accuracy of a bundle of oil soaked spaghetti. (Ask me how I know.)

General torquing is well done with a torque wrench.
Other methods are;
: measuring stretch with a micrometer,
Or using 'Pre-load' indicating washers, OR 'angle torquing',or two other methods that I forget.

Stay with a calibrated torque wrench.
I don't have experience with the torque sticks, just researched and found that information. I have worked in 2 manufacturing environments where pneumatic tools were used to install all types of part on cars and copy machines. They periodically calibrated them and used hand held torque wrenches to confirm the torque on the line.

Pneumatic wrenches can be used to provide a proper torqueing but they have to be properly calibrated. They also have to be used properly. Both of the manufacturing companies I worked for trained the line people in their proper use. Auto shops don't seem to follow proper procedures, just letting the tire jockeys hammer away on the lug nuts. I buy my tires only at the dealership now and I check the torque when I get home. So far, so good.
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Old 11-17-2016, 11:37 AM   #48
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My local America's Tire store finishes off wheel mounting with a calibrated torque wrench. They calibrated my torque wrench on their fancy machine last time in and found that it was tightening to 105 when it should have been at 100 for my AS.
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Old 11-17-2016, 12:14 PM   #49
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I'm thinking one of you experts (I am not) can help me on a grease question.

So, on my 2016 30' FC, Colonial moved my ProPride hitch over from my 27' FC in July.

I'd like to drop the hitch ball to check the ball for grease.

It's over at the storage yard, so not really access to large tools.

Can I do this as follows:

1.) Place a lego block platform under the hitch pivot assembly.

2.) Lower the trailer onto the platform using the service jack

3.) Unlock the ball latch and undo the ball latch

4.) Raise the service jack, causing the trailer to lift off the ball

5.) Service the ball with grease

6.) Reverse to reassemble

I mean, is this ok or am I missing something?

Thanks!

Rich
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Old 11-18-2016, 08:29 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Llando88 View Post
I'm thinking one of you experts (I am not) can help me on a grease question.



So, on my 2016 30' FC, Colonial moved my ProPride hitch over from my 27' FC in July.



I'd like to drop the hitch ball to check the ball for grease.



It's over at the storage yard, so not really access to large tools.



Can I do this as follows:



1.) Place a lego block platform under the hitch pivot assembly.



2.) Lower the trailer onto the platform using the service jack



3.) Unlock the ball latch and undo the ball latch



4.) Raise the service jack, causing the trailer to lift off the ball



5.) Service the ball with grease



6.) Reverse to reassemble



I mean, is this ok or am I missing something?



Thanks!



Rich

Rich, this would work. You could also use a trolley jack if you have one.

The other way to do it without any additional material (other than grease and rags &#128512 is to hitch up as normal so the weight of the PP head is supported by your TV (no WD applied), release the ball lock on the Airstream and raise the trailer on the tongue jack. You should be able to raise everything 6" - 8" or so which is plenty to get in and clean up / grease.

Obviously make sure everything is secure before you put your hands in to clean up an re-grease.

When you are done, reverse procedure. If the ball lock won't quite seat again, hop in your TV, start it up and very gently inch your TV forward. You should hear the click as the ball lock pops down into the locked position as soon as you take up any slack in the hitch system. This step is not always required. About 50% of the time it just re-latches as you lower but it does occasionally get stuck.

I have done this a few times on the road - it should take 10-15 mins tops once you have done it a few times. I think the approached using your TV is a bit safer than building a support for the head which could be unstable depending on how level the site is and what you have at hand to build a support.

Any of these methods will work though so take your pick.

Note that the PP ball does need greased. Some people say since it does not rotate on the ball it's not important but the head does allow movement side to side and takes a huge load from the WD system. These small movements in my mind are probably worse than a regular hitch that will see many orientations and the grease can move around a bit. The wear points on a PP ball are very localized. My ball has looked pretty polished in a few areas after a year without regressing. I now do it every other time I regrease the WD bars - the grease is out so it does not take long.
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Old 11-18-2016, 08:55 AM   #51
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So-called "torque-sticks" are not intended to apply final torque. They are intended to allow an air-tool to be used without exceeding the design torque of the stick. Final torque is achieved using a torque-wrench.

Torque-wrench technique is also important. The gorilla at the tire store will typically use an air impact and torque-stick to install the nuts...then grab a torque wrench and "heave-to" upon it, it will issue a "click" and gorilla thinks he's done his job. In reality he is most likely overtorqued or undertorqued the fasterner rather than achieve the correct torque. This is because he did not support the wrench at it's pivot point thereby adding improper angular-friction to the effort.... or he so-vigorously applied the force in order to achieve that "click"-sound that he exceeded the torque necessary. The wrench should be properly supported, and the force steadily applied only to the point of calibration (click).

The ball on my heavy-duty hitch is welded upon it's mount by design. My light duty hitch-balls are torqued to spec., using lock-washer and then pinned, using a cotter-pin. I believe these are good practices.
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Old 12-24-2016, 03:37 PM   #52
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I should also have added that I never grease the trailer ball. But I also don't have it in a bind by using a WD hitch either on my 22' Sport which only has a tongue wt of about 400 lbs. No wear is indicated at all.
WD hitches place a lot of pressure on the ball and make them groan and is why folks grease them.
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Old 12-24-2016, 10:19 PM   #53
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Are we still greasing our balls and hitch bars, if you use too much it will end up on your pants sooner or later...just a thought..
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Old 05-26-2017, 07:56 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
I think the best outcome of this thread is confirming grease on hitch ball. This is a link to grease sold by one of the most well known hitch names http://www.reeseprod.com/products/hi...8OaGHduyxF9FGH I'm not promoting this brand, just using their name and sales to help support the apply grease here --> HITCH BALL.

But possibly more important, getting folks to question the assumption that their hitch ball is tight and discussing how to do it.

Carry on. Or prove its tight and lubed.
Today I took my hitch to Camping World and asked them to tighten the ball. I have a Blue Ox hitch and bought it from them. I was surprised when he said he would be glad to tighten it and then did so right away. They took it into the shop and I was not allowed to follow. I have so little confidence that it was torqued to 450#.

How do others check if their hitch ball is torqued correctly?

BTW I always lube the ball before each hookup.
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Old 05-27-2017, 06:21 AM   #55
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Hans,

Without a torque wrench pretty hard to know. But this is how I've found over a dozen loose hitch balls at forum rallies. I look at the lock washer If it's not compressed you can see a gap, if I take a dollar bill and slide it between the lock washer and nut, and if I put my socket on it my 3/4" breaker bar budged it easily. Any of those are quick checks but a real torque wrench is the gold standard.

One was so loose you could turn the ball with a channel lock pliers.

At alumalina this fall I'll have my wrench and a new hitch ball, not for me for somebody that needs a new one.
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Old 05-27-2017, 06:50 AM   #56
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You grease your balls,they won't come loose....
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Old 05-28-2017, 02:16 AM   #57
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Probably a dumb question - we have had are 2015 27FB FC for about 1.5 years now with 10 trips under are belt. I have an equalizer weight distribution / anti sway setup. My question is should I be putting grease on the hitch ball ( which cuts down on the grinding sound) or am I making an unsafe situation where the trailer could pop off the ball ??



Thanks,



Glenn


Once hitched, the connection is part of the steering of the combined rig. It needs lubrication.

Improper lubrication on tractor trailer fifth wheel plates is the leading secondary cause in loss of control accidents.

Clean and re grease the trailer end as well. This seems universally ignored.

Lack of lubrication makes a bad road situation worse.
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Old 05-28-2017, 07:09 PM   #58
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Thanks!!!
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Old 05-28-2017, 08:15 PM   #59
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Yes to greasing.
I think it is better to not used anything on the threads.

Torqueing a nut onto a hitch ball does not require any special equipment other than a socket, breaker bar, and pipe extension. Torque can be calculated pretty closely, at least close enough for my hitch ball (force in pounds x lever length in feet=foot pounds)
So, if I can pull or push 150 lbs on the end of a breaker bar (with a 3' pipe used extend the lever arm length), that would be ~450 foot pounds of torque.
Or, 125 lbs and a 4' pipe extension would be ~500 foot pounds.

Careful though, one could break the breaker bar.
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Old 05-28-2017, 10:20 PM   #60
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You grease your balls,they won't come loose....
Good to know ...
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