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Old 11-08-2016, 03:54 PM   #1
PSU1981
 
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2015 27' Flying Cloud
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Grease on the hitch ball - is this safe?

Probably a dumb question - we have had are 2015 27FB FC for about 1.5 years now with 10 trips under are belt. I have an equalizer weight distribution / anti sway setup. My question is should I be putting grease on the hitch ball ( which cuts down on the grinding sound) or am I making an unsafe situation where the trailer could pop off the ball ??

Thanks,

Glenn
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Old 11-08-2016, 04:08 PM   #2
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Applying a light film of grease will help everything work together and will not make the trailer disconnect, too much grease in not good!
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Old 11-08-2016, 04:11 PM   #3
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I grease my ball, always have. If the coupler is secure it's not going to jump off. For every trailer I've ever pulled, I've greased the ball.

Maybe here, maybe elsewhere, I saw a post about someone who said they never did and once the ball ate its way out of the top of the coupler. If I can lift the back of the TV to get the Equalizer bars hooked up I doubt that it's going to jump off on the road. Besides, I hate the squeaking. If you don't have the bracket jackets, I highly recommend them. No grease, no squeak, just grease the head and spring arm sockets.
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Old 11-08-2016, 04:18 PM   #4
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"Grease on the hitch ball - is this safe?"

Yes
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Old 11-08-2016, 04:37 PM   #5
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Equalizer makes lube and also something called a "bracket jacket" to keep down the noise.
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:23 PM   #6
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Even with a Hensley hitch where there is little movement n the ball grease is recommended.


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Old 11-08-2016, 07:08 PM   #7
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Yes to grease!
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Old 11-08-2016, 07:25 PM   #8
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Grease is needed for a few reasons and many people cover their ball with a sliced tennis ball or something when not hitched so you are less likely to get grease on your clothes.
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Old 11-08-2016, 07:32 PM   #9
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I think not putting grease on it would be more likely to cause an unsafe condition eventually. I use a plastic ball cover when the trailer is not hitched.
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Old 11-09-2016, 10:06 AM   #10
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Folks, grease question well lubed by now but I'd like to add an additional inspection point.

Is the ball tight?

Don't fret even non mechanical types can look for stuff like this.

Ball wiggles while hitching up.
Ball shows it has been turning on the hitch it leaves a ring mark
You can slide a dollar bill under the ball flange to hitch and it slides in easily
The lock washer is spread, shows a gap, doesn't look compressed.

I've lost count of how many loose hitch balls I've spotted and helped tighten.

One was so loose the owner used a pair of pliers to snug it up before I came back with a BIG wrench.
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Old 11-09-2016, 10:12 AM   #11
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Tow Ball Welded

Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post

Ball wiggles while hitching up.
Ball shows it has been turning on the hitch it leaves a ring mark
You can slide a dollar bill under the ball flange to hitch and it slides in easily
The lock washer is spread, shows a gap, doesn't look compressed.

I've lost count of how many loose hitch balls I've spotted and helped tighten.

One was so loose the owner used a pair of pliers to snug it up before I came back with a BIG wrench.
I solved this problem by having the hitch installer tack-weld the nut to the tow ball threads so it wouldn't loosen.
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Old 11-09-2016, 10:53 AM   #12
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Try wax paper

Fold up a piece and place it between the ball and the coupler. Lubricates without the mess.
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Old 11-09-2016, 11:30 AM   #13
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To ensure smooth operation, and to ensure the ball locks properly, I've always lathered greased inside the coupling mechanism.

Tom
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Old 11-09-2016, 11:42 AM   #14
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The mechanics of greased balls makes them easier to slide into the cavity where, when locked in place, are very unlikely to pop back out no matter how much pushing or pulling is performed. So feel safe in the action.
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Old 11-09-2016, 11:45 AM   #15
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Grease is lubrication to limit wear and should be applied on the ball and up inside the hitch itself. Please just remember to install a rubber ball cover onto the ball while not towing. re: If you rub or lean up against a greasy uncovered trailer hitch ball and get grease on your pants and then come inside the trailer and sit on the couch like I did you will get a vicious tong lashing from your spouse . Remember ""Happy wife - Happy life""
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Old 11-09-2016, 11:49 AM   #16
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When we picked up our AS from Colonial RV in NJ, they greased the ball.
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Old 11-09-2016, 12:16 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StreamDog View Post
When we picked up our AS from Colonial RV in NJ, they greased the ball.

Did they give you a hitch ball cover? I hear they include a fair number of little extras in a get started kit or something.
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Old 11-09-2016, 12:22 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
Folks, grease question well lubed by now but I'd like to add an additional inspection point.

Is the ball tight?

Don't fret even non mechanical types can look for stuff like this.

Ball wiggles while hitching up.
Ball shows it has been turning on the hitch it leaves a ring mark
You can slide a dollar bill under the ball flange to hitch and it slides in easily
The lock washer is spread, shows a gap, doesn't look compressed.

I've lost count of how many loose hitch balls I've spotted and helped tighten.

One was so loose the owner used a pair of pliers to snug it up before I came back with a BIG wrench.

Amongst a many and varied career over my life, I was a Sales Agent for Premier Fasteners from Cleveland. (In the Rexdale office)
I learned an awful lot about using threaded fasteners. Allow me to pass one on:
When a fastener is tightened down, only 10% of the applied torque is actually used to tighten the bolt, to 'stretch it'. The rest is used to overcome friction; 50% on the threads, 40% on the nut face. So.......
A hitch ball that comes with a 1 1/4" shank usually calls for 450 ft. lb. of torque. This is 'dry torque'. dry threads,
Many mechanics, (me included) have torque wrenches that max out at 250 ft. lb. well short of the requirement. However.........
By using an 'extreme pressure' grease, such as 'Colloidal copper, C-5,'
'Never seize' or similar on both the threads and nut face, you reduce the friction by a lot.
According to Premier, by using those lubes, you reduce the applied torque by 35-40%.
40% of 450 is 270 ft. lbs. pretty close to the max of the torque wrench.
So... I set my wrench at max 250, sit on the ground with my foot against the car bumper, (so that I don't slid under the car), and while someone holds the ball, I pull the wrench, on the nut until it 'clicks.'
270 ft. lb. is pretty close to the spec, that will stretch the bolt to design tension.
If you are fussy enough to want that extra little torque, then use a 'Johnson' bar and turn the nut a further 5-8 degrees of turn. There you have it.
That nut should never loosen, because when the bolt tension is greater than the working load, it will never fail.
If you STILL want an extra safety, put a large 'Pal Nut' on the exposed thread, and snug it up to 1/4 turn.

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Old 11-09-2016, 01:31 PM   #19
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Mel,

Thanks for the tech side comments about this critical fastener.

What bugs me is the number of loose ones I've detected by EYE!

Come on folks check it or ask for help.

John Denver did a concert at the (Mel was it the coliseum south of Cleveland out in the country) back in the late '70's and a guitar player was tuning his strings and John told him when you get it right, weld it.

I think when you get the hitch ball nut tight correctly ya don't need to weld it. They come with big split lock-washers. Just check periodically. And welded may not mean it was correctly tightened before welding.

But when by eye you can see a problem somebody ain't doing inspections.

I did buy a 40" 3/4" breaker bar just for these jobs and spark plugs. JK.

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Old 11-09-2016, 03:39 PM   #20
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When unhitched, I use the bottom third of a water bottle to cover the hitch ball. I just use my pocket knife to cut off the top and push the bottom over the ball. The contour keeps it from coming off. When I hitch up again I toss it away, hitch up and drink a bottle of water on the way to the next stop.
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