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Old 08-09-2008, 07:48 PM   #43
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
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2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
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Originally Posted by thatismytruc View Post
Thanks fr the photos Robert. That's what my Yukon set up looks like, you saved me taking some photos in the rain. I'm feeling very comfortable with that set up. Very strong. My ball ended up being at 20". A smidge high but better than the 23" you mention.
Yep, the thru bumper design was a big improvement, it is a much more substantial unit.
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Old 08-21-2008, 12:58 PM   #44
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1986 31' Sovereign
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What is proper hight for Airstream. I was told 19 1/2 is that correct?
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Old 08-21-2008, 01:09 PM   #45
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yes that's what I was told, but may different for certain model years
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Old 08-21-2008, 02:33 PM   #46
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I checked my buddy truck and it was fine class V and all
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Old 08-22-2008, 04:43 PM   #47
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1973 Argosy 26
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The shape has no bearing on the strength as long as the proper calculations were performed by the GM Engineers, and proper materials were used. I just referred to the round bar as a description, a form of differentiation between the factory and after market hitch.
Hi thatismytruc; I have a slightly used Factory GMC hitch for sale. Do you want it? Just joking. Perhaps I have no problem with 1/8" wall by 2" dia. round tube, but when you look at the splattered on welds that have not penetrated the material, all the proper calculations by GMC just flew out of the window. I was told that GMC pays $19.00 for that hitch, so what would expect? The welds at best, are superficial and very short. This hitch is only worth as much as the South of the Border welds. Why would anyone install a hitch which torques up and down on the bumper cross member without use of Locktite or lock washer? If the installer misses the torque process, bolts fall out as mine did. The ULTRA FRAME hitch which I have installed which is supposedly made by Draw Tite has a 3" square tube with 1/4" wall. Welds are solid all the way around. Frame mounting plates are also 1/4" thick and very deep. This hitch however had no provision to bolt it to the bumper cross member. I have cut a 7" X 4" x 1.3/8 steel plate and duplicated a bolt spread in the bumper cross member. Holes were drilled in the top plate of the hitch, drilled and tapped to 9/16" thread in the 1 3/8" adopter plate. One set of bolts retains the adopter plate to the bumper cross member, the second set retains the hitch plate to the adopter plate. Hitch installation itself took only half hour, one and half hour for making and painting the plate. It is overkill but the secure feeling on the road is priceless. Thanks "Boatdoc"
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Old 08-22-2008, 05:23 PM   #48
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
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Thumbs up One more thing to check...


Our last TV (95 Burb) was a year round driver so I got in the habit of removing the receiver every winter.

Never even occured to me to check this before.

This started after seeing an sob's reciever bolts fail while backing into a campsite in Up-state NY. Really it was a simple operation, just six bolts on the Reese class 4. Every Spring re-install and inspect the grade 8 stainless bolts that I had used.
Pulled down the zip-lock bag filled with grease that I had tucked above the bumper last Fall. Guess what, no wiring corrosion to fix and the piece of mind knowing that the receiver was secure for another season.

CHECK THOSE RECEIVER BOLTS ONCE A YEAR, may be surprised what you find!!

Stream Safe
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Sandra wanted to go to Cleveland on vacation,
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