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thecatsandi · 10-09-2007, 04:55 PM

The 250s only come with the hitch if you order the tow package. Most stock 250s will come with that package but you can order it without one.

Boondocker · 10-15-2007, 10:12 AM

OK, after consulting with Reeses tech department, I was able to find a hitch that should fit my trucks honking big, 12 inch drop bumper. The race is on to get it installed before the trip I want to take to Palo Duro at the end of the week.

Now here is something for the engineer and/or smarter than me types. The bumper on my truck is a heavy duty, after market deal rated 1,000 lb hitch, and 10,000 lb towing. It is heavy metal and bolted into the frame. What would have been the argument against welding a receiver hitch on to the bumper and using that if I had not been able to find the hitch I did. I wonder if it wouldn't have been better since there wouldn't be bolts to fail. Comments?

2airishuman · 10-15-2007, 11:12 AM

welding smelding...

removing your still pictureless bumper and professionally welding a receiver box on the underside would be fine...

but, it cannot be moved or adjusted without more fire....

unless welded by a pro it might weaken the entire hitch set up....

so what's the rating after fire?

bolts can be replaced whenever and for what ever....

basically ALL the same reasons most receivers aren't welded to frames...

unless done at assembly by robots or line pros.

yes some are, i've got a welded receiver on a unibody sports car.

cheers
2air'

BillTex · 10-15-2007, 01:33 PM

Along the same line as 2airs' comment...the only negative I can think of; while that aftermarket bumper may be rated at 1000/10000, what about the connection?

When you buy a vehicle with the hitch from the factory, we can ASSume the entire hitch system is rated for a certain capacity.

In your case, we do not know the integerity of the fastening...

Most likely it is fine...but then again...

Bill

Boondocker · 10-17-2007, 08:11 AM

Apparently it took a whole bunch of work, grunting, and cussing- BUT- the hitch guys were able to get the receiver mounted yesterday-not a bit of room to spare. Another happy note is the tire fits back underneath, I wasn't sure that would be the case.

Time to start working out the settings for the hitch and take it out for a trip. Conveniently, fall break starts this afternoon....

Boondocker · 10-17-2007, 04:31 PM

After a whole bunch of back and forth, weighing pros and cons, I elected to go with the P3 brake controller. The one in my old truck didn't have any problems and it took some thinking to convince myself to take the choice to go with a model that is $150 more. In the end, I like idea of the inertia control doohickey and the diagnostic abilities of the P3. It may not be a difference that matters, but at some point you pays your money and takes your chances.

Tonight or tomorrow morning I will adjust the hitch, and then its off on the maiden voyage to the local wildlife refuge north of town. The receiver and brake controller project went way past what I had planned (receiver $200 + $100 install- apparently that was money very well spent- and basically $200 for the brake controller) but its ready to roll now, I'm pretty psyched.

One can only hope that a new TV and the fofoo brake controller will make a big difference, but you never know.

Boondocker · 10-17-2007, 07:41 PM

The installation materials for the P3 indicate that the controller needs to be level. Does anyone know what the tolerances on this are? How level is level enough? Will it give me a warning? If it has to be really level, how steep of a grade can I go down without getting into brake problems?

Sugarfoot · 10-17-2007, 08:38 PM

It needs to be level as in side to side. Front to back the controller has some tolerance and it can be installed with the display tilted up but not down. Hopefully someone who has a better understanding of how they work will speak up, but I've never had a problem with grades around here in Tennessee. I can't recall if it gives a warning, but I've never had it do so.

ROBERT CROSS · 10-17-2007, 09:06 PM

[quote=BillTex]

In your case, we do not know the integerity of the fastening...

Most likely it is fine...but then again...

Bill[/quote

imho I believe the reason recievers are bolted rather than welded is that a

weld is difficult to inspect for integrity. You can remove bolts, inspect

mount holes and replace damaged/worn components. In fact today we

put the Stream to bed for winter, part of the winterizing

is to remove the reciever, inspect, and store in

the basement. Something not possible with a welded platform.

(sound like too much work,well it may be if the tv is over 2yrs old and you
live in bflo. i got into this habit after watching an sob platform fail while backing into a campsite)

BillTex · 10-18-2007, 06:33 AM

[quote=ROBERT CROSS]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillTex

In your case, we do not know the integerity of the fastening...

Most likely it is fine...but then again...

Bill[/quote

imho I believe the reason recievers are bolted rather than welded is that a

weld is difficult to inspect for integrity. You can remove bolts, inspect

mount holes and replace damaged/worn components. In fact today we

put the Stream to bed for winter, part of the winterizing

is to remove the reciever, inspect, and store in

the basement. Something not possible with a welded platform.

(sound like too much work,well it may be if the tv is over 2yrs old and you
live in bflo. i got into this habit after watching an sob platform fail while backing into a campsite)

Yeah, agreed-but the General had some concerns about an AFTER MARKET hitch or bumper. No one was really familiar with it, so he replaced it...

Boondocker · 10-29-2007, 01:32 PM

Moving along slowly on the project, but no big tows untill around the end of December (well maybe at Thanksgiving..

). On the to do list:

1. Find a set of scales and do some weighing. The only local scales I can find cost $12 for each weight which could get expensive.

2. See if the shank of my WD head can be drilled to shorten the length between the axle and trailer.

3. Tweak out the WD system.

**azflycaster** · 10-29-2007, 03:10 PM

Rodney,

Many scales charge one price for the first weigh and then only a dollar or two for each one after that. See if yours does that...
Before you cut the shank down consider the tailgate on your truck and if you can open it. Also make sure it isn't so short that you could hit the trailer with the truck on a very sharp turn.
Tweak away!

Boondocker · 11-20-2007, 10:13 AM

Had the first tow with the new rig last Friday. About 20 miles some four lane and some hills.

I haven't got to the scales yet to play 100 adjustments but:

*I ran with an empty water tank and the Trade Wind only pushed the rear end down slightly (making me think it might be a good idea to stick with friction sway rather than cam).
*That trailer makes the truck ride nicer

.
*Not even a hint of sway noticed. Passed by one semi (tanker) which had no effect on my rig that I could detect. It will be wonderful if this holds true over time.
*The distance was to short to make any sort of guess relative to mileage- however when not towing I run about 1,900 RPM at 65MPH in 5th, towing I had very similar results. I think this bodes well for having decent mileage towing.
* This was also the first trip with the P3 brake controller. I had to make one stop faster than I would like, but was satisfied with the controllers performance. Currently I have the output at 7 with the boost at 2, no doubt I will tweak that as I get more experience with the system.

Overall, I am quite pleased with the rig and really look forward to my trip over winter break.