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Old 12-29-2012, 09:50 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert claus View Post
I've thought about it, but can't see the advantage of looking at the front of the Airstream from just a few feet away - you couldn't see around it to the back corners. However, the idea of an offset front hitch makes more sense.
The advantage isn't visibility. The advantage is that the front wheels of the tow vehicle are closer to the hitch ball. Having the front wheels only two or three feet away from the hitch ball makes a big difference compared to having them ten or twelve feet from the hitch ball in terms of how tight you can turn. Simple geometry.

An offset front hitch adds improved visibility as well, though, but doesn't completely remove the need for a spotter.
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:06 PM   #16
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Its a tricky thing to learn, but really worth it. You can put any size trailer anywhere you want it.

We had a custom box steel front bumper made for our Land Rover Defender 90 and I used it to push a 25 ft. Contender (power boat) up a hill into a driveway. Amazing what you can do when you shorten up all the geometry.
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Old 02-20-2013, 04:32 PM   #17
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I've noticed that all the front hitches on the internet for a 2nd generation Tundra have a 500 lb. weight limit. I don't know if that is a limit for the hitch or the Tundra front suspension. The rated tongue wt. on our trailer is 720 lbs. and is probably more in the real world.

For moving a trailer for a few minutes, I'm wondering if anyone has had trouble with using a hitch like this to move a trailer with 50% more tongue wt.?

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Old 02-20-2013, 05:55 PM   #18
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This is a wonderful idea...I am going to look further in having a receiver welded on...thanks
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:39 PM   #19
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Check out Curt hitches. I put one on the front of my TV, just in case. It weighed about 38 pounds.

I replaced the factory receiver with a Curt 15049 hitch rated at 2,550 pounds tongue weight. My current tongue weight is just over 1,200 pounds, which would have overloaded the factory receiver, which also has a history of weld issues at maximum load.

Both of these units were bolt on with no welding required.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:04 AM   #20
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We put on a Curt front receiver itch that was reinforced and "never looked back" ... so much easier! We also upgraded the suspension to handle the 833 #TW.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:19 AM   #21
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An added bonus with a front hitch receiver...install your cargo carrier for some extra totin' space...

Aluminum Hitch Cargo Carrier - 500 lb. Capacity

I use ours to load up some fire wood when we're heading out for a weekend outing...
or an extra ice chest...
or those large, folded, dirty/muddy camping mats...
or the BBQ...
or ????

Oh yes, and I also use that front hitch receiver to park our AS, too...
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Old 02-21-2013, 07:25 AM   #22
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I've had a front hitch on the last three trucks I've owned and would not be without one. Some folks may be able to back up like a pro, but I'm not one of them. With the front hitch, spotting a trailer into a tight space is childs play, you literally drive it where you want it to go.

What I have found is that the tongue wt on my airstream is at or a bit above the 500 lb limit of the front hitch. So I take it very slow when I am hooking it up and moving it around. I have the tow package on the truck, but it's 8 years old and I can see the front drop down several inches with that extra 5-600 lbs on the ball.
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:11 PM   #23
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that's how we pushed trailers on airplanes - with a front pintle hook

how much was it - because a power dolly is around $1500
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Old 03-06-2013, 01:03 AM   #24
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The Curt front hitch was under $200 installed
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Old 03-08-2013, 01:59 PM   #25
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I use a tool box on the front hitch with enough tools to compensate the front end rise when the trailer is hooked to the rear hitch for towing. This is effectively a "weight transfer" technique which replaces the need for weight transfer bars on the rear hitch. It is especially effective on my long wheelbase F250, which makes it difficult for regular weight transfer bars to work without a lot of leverage dialed in.

I originally got the front hitch to allow me to park the trailer in otherwise impossible sites. It works really well for this too. No longer am I intimidated by those tight right-hand backing assignments. When using the front hitch for parking the trailer, I hold a mirror out the driver's window to see that side, and a spotter to see the other side.

The front hitch is a versatile implement indeed.
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Old 03-08-2013, 04:31 PM   #26
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Curt front hitch (beefed up and suspension replaced) is mounted on ours; but be sure that your suspension and hitch will handle the weight as advised above ... the suspension can be damaged by just parking your AS. You don't have to be towing to cause problems from an excessive load on the front hitch mount.
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Old 03-08-2013, 07:12 PM   #27
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My suspicion is that a lot of these hitches have a tongue wt. limit of 500 lbs. or 5,000 lbs. tow wt., but people use them to park their heavier trailers.

I asked a guy at a spring shop and he indicated they are generally rated for 5,000 lbs. towing or 500 lbs. tongue wt. I asked what he would do if he had a a trailer with about 800 lbs. tongue wt. and he said he'd try it anyway if all he had to do was park it.

He also said the rating is for 5,000 lbs. towing and they just take 10% for tongue wt. Since tongue wt. can be 10-15%, would that mean 750 lbs. is ok? I didn't ask him that. And these ratings may be taking into account bumps, potholes and other bad roadway that creates extra force on the suspension. But if you are moving a trailer a couple of score feet in a flat area, maybe that is within the capability.

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Old 06-05-2013, 11:52 AM   #28
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Has anyone used some sort of caster wheel setup to take the weight off the front suspension ? What about the WD bars?
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