Friction Anti Sway Bar Supports Slip

[Jim J]

I had the same problem and implemented this solution with some success.
I cut some rubber fuel line to put over the top and bottom clamp bolts between the brackets, similar to the copper tube solution. The fuel line just takes up the gap to the frame and keeps the bolts from marring the trailer frame. I aligned the clamps so the bars are at the right place and at the right angle to accommodate the bars. On my truck this was with the bottom of the L bracket sloped forward about 5 degrees. Then tightened up the clamps. I put some bearing grease on the l brackets where the bars ride to reduce the friction there. Then I check the clamp bolts are tight before every trip and at the end of every day I travel. This has significantly reduced but not completely eliminated the movement of the clamps on the frame.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Originally Posted by dbj216

Hi Robert. I think I could cut copper tubing to 1.5 inches +/- 1/16". I imagine you have copper "bushings" on both the upper bolt and the lower bolt. I have a couple of questions if I might.

1. What torque in foot pounds do you use when tightening the 1/2" bolts with the copper bushings in place?

2. What clearance do you have between the copper bushings and the frame rails on your trailer? I wonder if the copper bushing take up come of the clearance between the bolts and the frame, thus preventing any pivoting movement.

Thanks,

David

Hi, David; I have the copper tubes on the top bolt and the bottom/third bolt. The top bolt/tube sits on the frame. There is some clearance between the second bolt and the bottom of my frame. I tightened all bolts with two boxed-end wrenches so I can only guess about 50 lbs. With the third bolt/tube holding the brackets apart, you can really crank down on the second bolt.

[dbj216]

You are right on the third bolt needing a bushing at the same width as the frame rail. I was playing around today. I installed my 1/8" steel shims between the bolt and the frame on the bottom, see photo. Then I tightened the bolts to at least 50 ft lbs. I noticed some bowing in the clamp plates with the bottom of them bowed in the most. So tomorrow I will cut a 1 1/2 long by 1/2" ID "bushing" and install it in the bottom hole. This ought to reduce the bowing I get from tightening the top and bottom frame clamp bolts.

The shim pretty much eliminated the clamp's ability to pivot fore and aft of vertical with the bolts just finger tight. This is due to the fact there is very little clearance between the bottom bolt and the frame. It's "jammed" tight in the vertical position. I'm hopeful the shim will significantly help keep my L bracket clamps in their correct position.

Thanks Robert for sharing your ideas here.

David

[dbj216]

Howdy Jim J from Austin. I wouldn't put any grease or lubricant on the L bracket pads that the spring bars ride on. These "equalizer" type hitches like mine rely on a stiff spring bar and lots of downward force on the L bracket bad. If the rear of the trailer starts to sway, the spring bars "saw" away on the L bracket pads and the high friction diminishes the sway.

The lube will make the hitch mechanism quieter. But it's supposed to squeak, squawk and grown while turning. It's one piece of metal pushing down hard on another piece of metal the the friction is what helps reduce sway. A little engine cleaner will cut the grease right off.

It is a good idea to check the L bracket clamp bolts frequently like you do. I installed lock nuts on mine hoping they will stay tight longer.

David

[TOPORANGER]

Hi All

I had my EZ 2 hitch brackets welded to the frame. Placed 2 welds on one side of the outside brackets. Should be easy enough to remove with a 4 inch grinder if needed. Be sure to paint the bare metal.

[dbj216]

Problem solved. They ain't moving now.

Most of us dudes don't have welding skills or access to a welder. Welding is a whole technology in itself. That's why I tried to figure out how come the bracket clamps were moving and how to eliminate it. Taking up all the clearance between the bottom bolt and the frame prevents the brackets from "pivoting". It will not prevent them from moving straight back but I think that will take a lot more force than the friction sway can generate. We'll see.

David

[TOPORANGER]

They ain't moving now

Important

When welding on trailer be sure to disconnect battery cables. For that matter anytime you are welding on anything with a battery, disconnect battery cables. Sure you only have to disconnect one, but I do both, ain't taking any chances.

There is someone with welding skills in every town in the USA. I am of the mind that paying someone who knows what they are doing is money well spent. Vertical welding is a special skill. I paid the welder $35. Cheap considering, the time invoked. Explain what I wanted, clear shop floor, back trailer in shop, remove from TV, disconnect batteries, remove friction arms, grind paint, weld, reassemble hitch, attach to TV, shoot the breeze and pay the man. Total time from arrival at shop till leaving 1 hr 15 minutes.

Like most tasks the prep is 90% of the job. Notice in first picture that paint was ground away, from weld area.

Be sure to paint the welded area. They will rust faster than you can imagine

[dbj216]

There are a lot of good welders in Wisconsin. It is known for dairy farms, but it is a manufacturing powerhouse too.

Thanks for the tip on disconnecting the battery.

David