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Old 03-18-2012, 03:53 PM   #29
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Gene, thanks... The reason I am considering WD and anti-sway is because we are upgrading to a new 30' FC. We also have a boat that we trailer on a double-axle and it is about the same weight/length. However our tow vehicle is a diesel Ford F250 crew cab and it tows most trailers like they're not even there. We've never used sway control or weight distribution for our boat in the past as it has not seemed to be necessary. Our dealer recommended we get the hitch for the new trailer.
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Old 03-18-2012, 04:34 PM   #30
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I'm firmly of the view that it doesn't matter what tow vehicle you have, a weight distribution system along with some form of sway control or elimination is something that will improve any towing experience. To shift some of that tongue weight towards the TV's front wheels (and a little back to the trailer) has to be beneficial, regardless of whether your TV's suspension can handle the load on the rear axle or not. Add sway control or elimination and you further improve the experience. I know some folk don't see things quite that way but surely anything that improves towing comfort and safety has to be good.

As to the brand and type of weight distribution you want to use, you'll get lots of opinions from the crowd here. Read on and see what people have to say.
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Old 03-18-2012, 06:00 PM   #31
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This is a link with my OPINION after using an Equal-i-zer and a Reese Dual Cam.

I recently found a deal on a Hensley Arrow that I could not pass up....so I've read virtually all the threads on HAHA and will add to this road test thread when I get the HAHA installed and after some extensive miles with it.

For what it's worth.....

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...est-76068.html
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Old 03-18-2012, 06:04 PM   #32
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UK Toad,

You are a wise Frog, and I agree. However, I think the length of the wheelbase and weight of the truck have prevented some of the "tail wagging the dog" issues, and I have never felt sway or seen the back of my truck dip by more than an inch or so when loaded. I have not used WD hitches before, or sway control, but that doesn't mean that I wouldn't have been safer with it. Towing a 22 Sport could certainly be done with my Honda Civic, if appropriately equipped. Well, maybe not the Civic...

I appreciate what I'm learning here...
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Old 03-18-2012, 10:07 PM   #33
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Jumped ship

Quote:
Originally Posted by REDNAX View Post
The Dual Cam is still the superior design. But not by much. Key on either it or the Equal-I-Zer is proper set-up. That can take time and is rarely done as well as could be. Experimentation is an acquired taste.
if you have the old style yes. Reese changed their design and did not change the part number. They shortened the length of the cam arms made the diameter of the trailing arm smaller.

I jumped ship.
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Old 03-18-2012, 10:08 PM   #34
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Alright, good to know... My dealer sells both. Is the Equal-i-zer a preferred brand? And if so, why?

My TV is a Ford F250 and we have a 30' FC on the way.
Equal-i-zer made in USA.
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Old 03-18-2012, 10:12 PM   #35
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The most interesting thing in this thread to me is, here is a Reese Dual Cam user, thecatsandi, who has been happy with the hitch for 80,000 miles of travel, tries an Equalizer hitch, and prefers it over the Reese.

I think in the past here someone has been piping us a line of sunshine.
Read my later post. I broke two arms towards the end of my 80,000 miles.
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Old 03-18-2012, 10:14 PM   #36
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X2 I agree
Read my reason for switching.
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Old 03-18-2012, 10:22 PM   #37
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Quote:
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Equal-i-zer made in USA.
Reese made in China (no, that's not a city in Texas!).
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:42 AM   #38
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We, too, switched from the R-brand to the *USA made with US materials* EQ brand.

If you add the L-bracket pads (called Bracket Jackets) the hitch is almost silent. Suggest that, as part of your pre-flight walk around, you check all of the adjustment nuts for proper torque / tightness. We use the aviation style wittness marks / paint dots to make the task quicker. The angle set bolt has loosed for us with time; Progress Mfg says to snug it 1/2 turn after tight, but it does seem to "wear-in" and loosen. Fortunately, I had center punched the threads to keep it from vibrating all of the way back out.

The socket nut torque determines the ease of rotating the bars when hooking up; we have found that our colder temperature variations make rotating the cold socket / head / bars - even well lubricated - more difficult. So, we carry tools to adjust that torque (45-65 ft-lbs) accordingly...even after "break-in". YMMV

The last area we check is the position of the bracket assemblies on the frame. Here again, we have dimpled the frame (center punched and drilled almost an imperceptible depth into the surface - only enough to "catch" the single drop of paint) with a wittness mark and noted that position on the frame with a white paint dot (gotta thank my Uncle Sam for that aviation training down in FL where you guys stay so nice and warm). Due to the acquisition of a 3/4 T diesel TV, I do plan to reduce the cross section dimension of the middle of the 1,000# TW bars ... to ease the transfer of road irregularities to the AS ... by making the bars just a bit more flexible.

Quick and easy ... but more importantly, we feel safer!
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:06 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDNAX View Post
The Dual Cam is still the superior design.
This might be true but since I am not a mechanical engineer, I can't really say. And, because I have no experience with any other hitch it isn't really fair for me to bash the other types.

At the last Balloon Festival I was lucky enough to park next to Alumaholic. He has a vast experience towing Airstreams with Reese hitches and the Equalizer. He prefers the Equalizer which meant a lot to me. We did watch someone hook up their HA or PP and I was glad I had my Equalizer.

What I do know is that it works great for me and my setup. It is easy to hitch and unhitch and I have many thousands of miles using it under varying circumstances and have never had a problem with it. Not bad for an inferior design I would say.
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:34 AM   #40
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Quote:
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. He has a vast experience towing Airstreams with Reese hitches and the Equalizer. He prefers the Equalizer which meant a lot to me. .
Never been around any hitch system other than the ball and socket.. Our 72 Overlander came with a Equalizer hitch system.. Pulling it home the first time I did not want to take the time to learn and set it.. As it turned out we had a 50mph cross wind all the way home.. I battled it all 300 miles.. Once home I took the time to play with the hitch,, and the adjustments.. What a simple and working system all around..

We pulled our AS to the lake this past weekend for a check out run,, and again another 50 mph cross wind.. The difference was night and day..

On the way to the lake I had too much pressure or lift on the bars at 5 links,, so when I hooked up to come home I ran 6 links and gave me a little more weight on my rear axle of my TV.. Both ways was still better than the battle I had with the first trip home...

Keep it simple,, has been my motto of life,, but a Equalizer hitch does work..

Sodbust NW Kansas
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:36 AM   #41
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Quote:
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What I do know is that it works great for me and my setup. It is easy to hitch and unhitch and I have many thousands of miles using it under varying circumstances and have never had a problem with it.
That's about the size of it really, isn't it? I have a basic Eaz-Lift system which I know is not the best solution, technically speaking, but it works for me. I might upgrade at some point in the future, but only when the Eaz-Lift bars need replacing.
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:55 AM   #42
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'Toad, maybe you know this answer—what does CanAm recommend? With all Andrew's experience, he must have an opinion on WD hitches.

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