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Old 07-05-2016, 05:48 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by Ray Eklund View Post
My center of ball to end of receiver is 10.5". FYI if anyone was curious.

Problem Solved... well, sort of.

Have been experimenting with the 2" sleeve that fits into a 2.5" receiver on my new Ford F350. The 2" sleeve has slop, about the thickness of a 10 cent coin between the 2.5" receiver opening and 2" sleeve insert.

The 2" sleeve has about the thickness of a 25 cent piece of slop, between the shank and the 2" receiver. (Before reacting, read the above carefully, again.)

So a total of 25 cents plus 10 cents= 35 cents of SLOP total. (OK, pull out a dime and a quarter to follow this reasoning. And... afterwards I am going to have a few IPA beers and mow the lawn.)

IF you shim the shank to fit tight into the 2" sleeve, it is difficult to pull the shank out of the sleeve when you want to pull the hitch out. You must leave the 2" sleeve attached to the shank if you want to save yourself some extra effort.

If you want to shim the gap between the 2" sleeve AND the 2.5" receiver, also, you will need more than a crow bar to get that apart. The combination can be firmed up to a point I do not know how you would remove the shank and 2" sleeve from the 2.5" receiver. (This is going to drive me to drinking, and I do not own a Hot Rod Lincoln.)

IF you are aligning the holes for the pin to be inserted to hold the hitch to the receiver, it can become tricker with the tight fit of the 2" sleeve to the 2" shank.

(I had a half width shim on the right side, fitted below the pin hole, and saw that was going to get myself into more trouble than worth discussing.)

You may now have a tighter 2" sleeve to 2" shank, but now there is a gap of of a 10 cent piece between the 2.5" hitch and the 2" sleeve insert... creating, again... slop.

I might find that getting an Equalizer 2.5" shank will remove the excess slop from the 2" sleeve to 2.5" receiver.

If you find this a PIA to understand... be in my position of figuring out that you fix one problem and create two MORE. Need I say any more? I hope not.

Sometimes you have to sit on a five gallon plastic bucket, understand that no matter what... the 2" sleeve was intentionally made LOOSE, as all of Ford's engineers had no better solution and said... 'stuff it'.

Tomorrow I will take my Ford, my Hitch, my 2" sleeve adapter to 2.5" receiver in my truck to an Equalizer dealership in Littleton, Colorado. IF I can eliminate the 25 cent slop created by using the 2" sleeve and reduce the slop to 10 cent slop, less the addition of the 25 cent plus 10 cent slop creating 35 cents of slop... for only 10 cents of slop, I am ready to pay the $185 for the 2.5" shank.

I am going to take the easy way out of this entire debate.
RAY:

I got mine for $139 in four days from E-Trailer. As I posted previously works great. So far would be worth far more than Equalizer's price of $185.

Bud
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Old 07-06-2016, 07:18 AM   #58
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.......TowBeast Class 5- 2.65" welded insert, 2.10"
Hensley stinger 2.03"
Boat stinger 2.04"

With the AS tongue weight of 1100-1200lb, never any noise or other indication of 'slop'.

With the boat TW of 275lb very noticeable banging over bumps & turning, hence the StowAway hitch tightener.

At the Chevy Store I had quite a few commercial customers,(who never removed their stinger), who were glad they had 'slop', after going thru several WNY Winters.
Even with the 'slop' I recall many rusted to the point of permanence.

Bob
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So when is this..."old enough to know better" supposed to kick in?
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Old 07-06-2016, 07:28 AM   #59
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Salt from the coast can also rust ball mounts permanently to the receiver.
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Old 07-06-2016, 12:58 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
.......TowBeast Class 5- 2.65" welded insert, 2.10"
Hensley stinger 2.03"
Boat stinger 2.04"

With the AS tongue weight of 1100-1200lb, never any noise or other indication of 'slop'.

With the boat TW of 275lb very noticeable banging over bumps & turning, hence the StowAway hitch tightener.

At the Chevy Store I had quite a few commercial customers,(who never removed their stinger), who were glad they had 'slop', after going thru several WNY Winters.
Even with the 'slop' I recall many rusted to the point of permanence.

Bob
Bob,

Having been around boats since early childhood, I can guarantee that you found the wrong solution for the rattle. The proper and only correct solution is to buy a much bigger and heavier boat.

Ken
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Old 07-06-2016, 02:00 PM   #61
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Bob,

Having been around boats since early childhood, I can guarantee that you found the wrong solution for the rattle. The proper and only correct solution is to buy a much bigger and heavier boat.

Ken

Ken,

No guarantee needed....I've found my LAST boat.


Tongue weight solution.....tractor wheel weight under the spare.....
2500lb rig with 270lb TW...

I too have a boating history.....


Bob
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Old 07-06-2016, 03:12 PM   #62
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Ken,

No guarantee needed....I've found my LAST boat.

Tongue weight solution.....tractor wheel weight under the spare.....
I too have a boating history.....

Bob
That is a very nice boat indeed.

My grandfather and uncle were lighthouse keepers until the Coast Guard took them over. My grandfather retired and my Uncle became a CPO in the Coast Guard. So my dad was well indoctrinated in boating. Compared to yours, my dad's boats were slow and clunky, but very seaworthy.

I guess I better stop messing around on Ray's Thread.

Ken
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Old 07-06-2016, 04:11 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
.......TowBeast Class 5- 2.65" welded insert, 2.10"
Hensley stinger 2.03"
Boat stinger 2.04"

With the AS tongue weight of 1100-1200lb, never any noise or other indication of 'slop'.

With the boat TW of 275lb very noticeable banging over bumps & turning, hence the StowAway hitch tightener.

At the Chevy Store I had quite a few commercial customers,(who never removed their stinger), who were glad they had 'slop', after going thru several WNY Winters.
Even with the 'slop' I recall many rusted to the point of permanence.

Bob
That's one of the reasons that I lubricate the shank.
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Old 07-06-2016, 07:38 PM   #64
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....or just take it out.

Bob
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Old 07-07-2016, 06:50 AM   #65
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There is a lot of slop in my f150 receiver . Up and down left and right, I also used a stowaway hitch tightener with mixed results. So it was time for oil and rotation of tires so I decided to show the slop in the warranty department. My truck had 31000 miles on it so to my surprise they are going to replace the receiver I think they said that the bumper is part of the system. I was very surprised and happy that no questions were asked . Just waiting it might come in today. You gotta love ford.Click image for larger version

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Old 07-07-2016, 09:02 AM   #66
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The plate on my hitch tightener is bent, too.
I just kept tightening until eventually it didn't need any further tightening.
I still check it every time I drop the trailer at a campsite.
I think even with a brand new receiver you will need the hitch tightener.
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Old 07-07-2016, 11:29 AM   #67
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Coaster,

What is the piece in the gloved hand?
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Old 07-07-2016, 12:11 PM   #68
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That is a piece of flat steel with a bend at one side that the u-bolt goes through on the hitch tightener.
I guess the flat part is supposed to go under the receiver and the turned up part is supposed to go under the shank.
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Old 07-07-2016, 01:58 PM   #69
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The flat is part of the stowaway hitch it's about 2 years in use . I've cranked the nuts hard at times because after a tow sometimes it's not as tight. I'm adding a modification to it and considering get a new hitch. It's the one that came with the trailer . It has seen plenty of use as my trailer is a 2006.
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Old 07-07-2016, 03:04 PM   #70
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It will eventually stay tight and need no further tightening.
I think the flt piece of steel is bent due to an 8,800# trailer jerking and snatching on it while bumping on down the rough highways.
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