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Old 07-02-2016, 12:02 PM   #15
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2009 25' FB Flying Cloud
1973 31' Sovereign
Mt Angel , Oregon
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Dear Ray:

You got that F350 to carry more mineral specimens, right? Wow, 2 1/2 inch receiver? Did you get the 'Tow Boss' package?

I recently bought an Eaz-Lift Elite WD hitch and its shank fits into our F350's 2" receiver with no slop--was kinda tight until some paint wore off.

Having the trailer jostle the shank around in the receiver wouldn't be good over the long haul. However, if you use spring bars the spring bar tension will limit or eliminate hitch movement vertically. The tension would also provide a lot of friction to restrain horizontal movement. So that is probably why people say not to worry.

If you don't use spring bars, then your hitch shank will have the freedom to move about, especially with low tongue weight. You would feel and hear this movement as "clunking" when hitting a pothole, bump, or when turning one way and then another. In that case shimming would help and probably be advised. 1040 cold rolled steel flat bar would work well and is readily available from steel distributors in different widths and thicknesses.

Happy prospecting!!

Best, Burnside

"To err is human, to air is devine."
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Old 07-02-2016, 12:32 PM   #16
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2000 30' Excella
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Recommendation: Drill and thread a hole in the bottom side of your receiver. Fit a bolt with a nut (to lock the bolt in place) into the hole and turn the bolt until it secures the hitch shank. Now turn the locking nut to secure it in place. That will stop the rattle.

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Old 07-02-2016, 01:30 PM   #17
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Camping World has the clamp in #13 on sale this weekend for $26.97, normally $32.10 if anyone is interested. No idea what the other stores might sell it for.
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Old 07-02-2016, 01:48 PM   #18
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Burnside... no Oregon Sun Stones, yet, but did some reading about them. You made some nice faceted rings out of some stones which puts Oregon on our 2017 Boondocking and Crystal Digging want to do's before I am too old.

The insert from Ford is part #10271A3. This insert slides into the 2.5" receiver to reduce it to 2.0"+ about 1/16". Our Equalizer shank is exactly 2.0". You add the length of the entire assembly and this thing moves around... a lot.

I have three, maybe four inquiries to various sites about this slop. I can understand if the receivers are too tight, some shanks would not fit due to their dimensions could vary. No company wants to be removing Hitch Assemblies at their cost due to being... too tight. This punishes companies like Equalizer who has a shank that is exactly 2.0" with 1/2000th inch tolerance. The thickness of a good paint job.

I imagine this slop constantly is taking a toll on the receiver when used off of paved roads. So far there has been no comments as to why the receiver is oversized enough to be an issue. I am patient, giving a 1/2000th slop in time one way or the other.

Companies stress it is YOUR RESPONSIBILITY to set up your trailer, properly, for towing safely. So.... maybe next week I will have some answers.

One site claimed: "Expertly welded together with strong steel, this CURT Rear Hitch is precisely welded and protected with a durable high gloss black powder coat finish and is guaranteed to tow or haul your heaviest equipment without bending or flexing under pressure like LESSER QUALITY HITCHES ON THE MARKET."

Hmmm... LQHOTM on my Ford? I doubt it, but does Ford meet SAE J684 ratings, which must be good for someone. Maybe it is the nice powder coat paint.
Human Bean
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Old 07-02-2016, 01:57 PM   #19
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Apache Junction , Arizona
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No slop at all on my unit. 2016 F250.
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Old 07-02-2016, 02:20 PM   #20
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Prospect , Virginia
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Gorilla glue and 4 quarters. Glue two on top on the hitch shank and two on the side. Problem solved and for only a dollar. 😎👍
Paul Hoffman
2014 27FB International (WBCCI # 5327)
2013 Ford F-150 XLT Super Cab (Silver)
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Old 07-02-2016, 02:25 PM   #21
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I had the same problem on my Dodge with the factory tow package after 100 K mile of towing it got worse. I tried the clamp shown above, but it wouldn't consistently stay right.
I finally bought a Curt class 5, the took the shank to a machine shop and rain a couple weeks beads on each side of the shank. Then ground it down to fit the new hitch. No problems for the last 30K miles.

It's not a hitch problem, it's the cheap factory Class 3 receiver from the factory.

Old age is coming at a really bad time!

1996 34' Excella 1000, interior totally redone, 2003 Dodge/Cummins HO, U.S. Gear exhaust brake, Diablo tuner, 115 gallon aux fuel, Bedslide, Airsafe/Reese Dual Cam, and a bunch of other stuff
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Old 07-02-2016, 02:57 PM   #22
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If you are going to shim the shank, do it on the bottom. That way, when you tighten the equalizer bars, the shim will not be loaded as all the force is in an upward direction. Also, on many OEM receivers the cross bar that the receiver mounts on flexes considerably (twists) when the bars are loaded up for travel. Sometimes, this flex coupled with the shank slop, is so great that not enough tension can be added to the bars for safe travel. On my original OEM set up you could noticeably see the large amount of of movement with little weight transfer verified on the CAT scales..
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Old 07-02-2016, 03:42 PM   #23
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Somewhere , South Carolina
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I got 3 sides shimmed, as reported. My receiver has near zero towing before the AS. I think we're seeing fitting clearance between the parts.
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Old 07-02-2016, 03:54 PM   #24
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My 2" Draw Tite receiver is a snug but not binding fit for my 2" Reese hitch. At a WBCCI International rally I attended in Sedalia, Mo. a seminar on the subject of factory furnished receivers revealed that there had been design and performance failures on some of these including failure to securely weld them together. It seems to me that if a standard hitch bar does not fit properly into a receiver, the vehicle manufacturer is responsible for correcting their flawed design.
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Old 07-02-2016, 04:08 PM   #25
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Ray: I have three inserts, one came with the F350. One I bought from Ford and one given to me by a friend who owns a utility trailer place. She told me hers would do the trick and it fit perfectly, both going into the receiver and the head sliding in. However, after a 300 mile day I could hardly get the insert out of the receiver. That is when I decided there was warping under sever loads and terrain on the insert and decided to bite it and buy a 2-1/2" shank. When I checked the dimensions of the shank both before the 300 miles and then after the measurements were different. The insert was no longer exactly square as it had been when it was given to me. Yet the receiver was. Now, I was not using any great scientific measuring devices, just a carpenters rule, but there was a difference.

As I said so far in 1,000 miles no slop and no issue removing the 2-1/2" shank and head. Time will tell, but others have told me that this is the solution (users not companies or sales people). As you noted the industry is quite on this one and will probably remain so, which leads me to believe that there is a lawsuit going on or one is about to be filed and now mum is the word.

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Old 07-02-2016, 04:21 PM   #26
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If there is slop there is less chance of the receiver rusting into place. This has been known to happen if the ball mount is left in place for a long time.
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Old 07-02-2016, 05:31 PM   #27
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Go to current issue, and call up "RV wanderers' column, and see what I did with shims.
I would send photos here, but I don't know how to.
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Old 07-02-2016, 07:16 PM   #28
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Equalizer Hitch: SLOP of Shank into Receiver

I'm glad to hear that you had the same good luck that I had with the Curt class V.

After I had my custom bumper made, I sold the Curt class V hitch that I had previously installed on the truck. Figured I'd never have a use for it......

Well, we bought Gina a 1981 Bronco sometime after that. It has a Ford Class "something" hitch on it.... Looks pathetic compared to my old Curt class V hitch. Wish I had kept the Curt hitch! I'm still going to order and install one. I'll never tow anything that heavy with it..... I just like the beefy hitch!

Originally Posted by Larry C View Post
I had the same problem on my Dodge with the factory tow package after 100 K mile of towing it got worse. I tried the clamp shown above, but it wouldn't consistently stay right.

I finally bought a Curt class 5, the took the shank to a machine shop and rain a couple weeks beads on each side of the shank. Then ground it down to fit the new hitch. No problems for the last 30K miles.

It's not a hitch problem, it's the cheap factory Class 3 receiver from the factory.


1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F250 7.3L PowerStroke

Blessed and highly favored

"Long lay the world in sin and error pining
Till He appeared and the soul felt its worth"
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F250 7.3L PowerStroke
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