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Old 01-18-2011, 08:55 PM   #29
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Weight distribution hitch.

The empty truck, no trailer, camping gear or passengers, just me and full fuel weighed in at 4020# front axel, the Cummings is heavy, and 2860# rear axel for a total of 6880#. When I first got the trailer I figured out that the empty trailer tongue weight was 840#. When the trailer is hitched and the bars are tensioned as I always tension them, the weight of the front axel increases back to almost the same 4020# as the empty truck. Jerry.
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Old 01-18-2011, 08:59 PM   #30
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good info jerry,

reada like you dialed the w/d nicely to REload the front/steering axle.

that's how it's done!

cheers
2air'
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Old 01-18-2011, 09:26 PM   #31
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Weight distribution hitch

Andy: I did increase the tension on the weight distribution bars. I have a point that I measure where the sleeve that connects to the actual weight distribution bar draws up into the sleeve that houses the screw that tensions the bars. I have found that a 2.75" measurement gives me a level truck and trailer. Just to see what would happen if I increased the tension even more, I adjusted to 2.00" and went back around for another weight. Everything still appeared level. I was surprised when I got my weight ticket and found that the front axel stayed the same at 4000#. I did get a weight decrease on the rear axel of 20# which showed up as an additional 20# on the trailer axels. I felt that what I was seeing was the effective limit of weight transfer forward and certainly did not feel that the extra stresses being created were worth the benefit. What I intend to do the next time everything is hitched and loaded, and I'm near the scales, will be to do another check at my 2.75" setting and then start backing off the tension by maybe 0.5" at a time and see how the weight transfer changes. I think the least tension applied that produces the desired result will be better for both the truck and the trailer. Jerry.
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Old 01-18-2011, 09:31 PM   #32
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Andy: I did increase the tension on the weight distribution bars. I have a point that I measure where the sleeve that connects to the actual weight distribution bar draws up into the sleeve that houses the screw that tensions the bars. I have found that a 2.75" measurement gives me a level truck and trailer. Just to see what would happen if I increased the tension even more, I adjusted to 2.00" and went back around for another weight. Everything still appeared level. I was surprised when I got my weight ticket and found that the front axel stayed the same at 4000#. I did get a weight decrease on the rear axel of 20# which showed up as an additional 20# on the trailer axels. I felt that what I was seeing was the effective limit of weight transfer forward and certainly did not feel that the extra stresses being created were worth the benefit. What I intend to do the next time everything is hitched and loaded, and I'm near the scales, will be to do another check at my 2.75" setting and then start backing off the tension by maybe 0.5" at a time and see how the weight transfer changes. I think the least tension applied that produces the desired result will be better for both the truck and the trailer. Jerry.
Jerry.

Your absolutely correct.

Your doing the variables, as they should be done, whenever in doubt, then selecting the best for your particular trailer and tow vehicle.

Andy
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Old 01-19-2011, 06:05 AM   #33
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Thank You!

Gentlemen,

thank you all very much for your input on this question. I must say I didn't expect quite this volume of replies. I think maybe some of them might have been motivated by, "what does this English fella think he's up to?"

But, let me assure you, I know where the knowledge is!

I remember a few year's ago a post by REMCO in Holland saying he had just waved off a trailer, detailing his misgivings about the suitability of the tow vehicle. We may not be responsible for what other people do - but I'd sure as hell feel responsible if he ended up in a ditch!

Personally, instead of working the narrow margins of what an equalizer will do, or shaving weight off the trailer, I'd want some room to breathe!
I think only a suitable tow vehicle will do - I'm honour bound to think and express that.

Fortunately, we do have Grand Cherokees over here and I'm pretty sure the Class III hitch will take this trailer in it's stride.

I hesitate to ask but, any thoughts????
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Old 01-19-2011, 08:59 AM   #34
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Old 01-19-2011, 09:03 AM   #35
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Gentlemen,

thank you all very much for your input on this question. I must say I didn't expect quite this volume of replies. I think maybe some of them might have been motivated by, "what does this English fella think he's up to?"

But, let me assure you, I know where the knowledge is!

I remember a few year's ago a post by REMCO in Holland saying he had just waved off a trailer, detailing his misgivings about the suitability of the tow vehicle. We may not be responsible for what other people do - but I'd sure as hell feel responsible if he ended up in a ditch!

Personally, instead of working the narrow margins of what an equalizer will do, or shaving weight off the trailer, I'd want some room to breathe!
I think only a suitable tow vehicle will do - I'm honour bound to think and express that.

Fortunately, we do have Grand Cherokees over here and I'm pretty sure the Class III hitch will take this trailer in it's stride.

I hesitate to ask but, any thoughts????
I realize that Grand Cherokees have morphed some over the years. However, I pulled a 21 foot Bigfoot that had a Max GVW of about 6300 lbs and a tongue weight of 600 Lbs with a 1999 Grand Cherokee with no problem whatsoever. One of the Main reasons I traded it for my current TV was the frequent fuel stops I was having to make. I am confident you would not have a problem with that combination.

Ken

P.S. I used a Equal-I-Zer brand hitch
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