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Old 05-13-2009, 11:23 PM   #85
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Alterior motive?

Hi, what is the real reason Andy is always there to bash Equal-i-zer brand hitch? And to side step on the brand's way of spelling their name? What is he hiding from us? And when cornered on something he has your post moved or removed or no further comment? What's up? Besides this is an "Equal-i-zer" thread isn't it?
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Old 05-13-2009, 11:28 PM   #86
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"I don't understand how tons of faith can be put into any brand of equalizing hitch, where the owner must be on the look out for bent bolts."

Andy, I agree with you about the bolts. I mean, how much more can the
grade 8 bolts cost? False economy at best, maybe bad engineering.

On the other hand, the whole assembly, at least on our tv/trailer combo,
seems to absorb shocks and vibrations quite well. Looking at those
heavy, square bars you would think otherwise. As I mentioned
in a previous post, higher loads on the bars can affect the steering.

The flexible bars of the dual cam seem like they would be more
absorbent. I like the fact that there are detents on the bars,
which would center the steering better. I would probably go the
dual cam route if I had it to do over.

Terry
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Old 05-13-2009, 11:40 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, what is the real reason Andy is always there to bash Equal-i-zer brand hitch? And to side step on the brand's way of spelling their name? What is he hiding from us? And when cornered on something he has your post moved or removed or no further comment? What's up? Besides this is an "Equal-i-zer" thread isn't it?
I didn't bring up the negative qualities of that brand. You owners did, up to and including posting photo's.

I don't hide anything that I am aware of. I have no reason to.

But for over 43 years, I have always mentioned the good and bad in whatever, that has to do with Airstreaming.

The vast majority of those comments come from first hand experience, research and/or from fellow owners.

Of course I have my favorites with both good and not so good load equalizing hitches, backed up with tons of data.

My only interest, is to pass that information on, for others safety and enjoyment, and for the best interests and well being, of the trailers. That in part, is what this Forums is all about.

Many agree, some disagree, that also is what this Forums is all about.

Politics, facts, experiences, opinions, as well as Physics, all have believers and non-believers. Freedom of expression, runs rampant in the USA.

And so it is.

Andy
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Old 05-14-2009, 07:51 AM   #88
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Quote:
Hi, what is the real reason Andy is always there to bash Equal-i-zer brand hitch?
Uh, maybe because he doesn't sell them????

Personally, I have a Reese Dual Cam (the new one with the adjustable bolt/cams things), and don't really like it. Don't get me wrong, once you get it adjusted, and the bars traded because they sell you too heavy of bars, it works good.

But, (there's always a but, isn't there?) the thing is way too complicated to adjust, IMHO. AND, you have to readjust the cams any time you make any change. Then in addition to that, the thing is hard to adjust. Unless you go and buy a special $45 wrench, you end up working with a big Cresent wrench, and that's a pain because it won't go in there right. And then the worst thing, again IMHO, I had to resort to using a feeler guage and a BIG hammer to get the cams to move and insure they are in the right place.

I've found if you don't do it right, there is virtually NO sway control.

Years ago I had the older version of the Reese Dual Cam with the "U" bolted plates and it was much easier to adjust, and actually worked better.

At this point, if I had it to do over, I'd buy a different hitch.
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Old 05-14-2009, 09:52 AM   #89
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UPFRONT DISCLAIMER: I sell the Reese Dual Cam and manufacture the ProPride 3P.


There, now that is out of the way...

I see where Andy is coming from with reporting his experiences and I have learned a lot valuable information from his posts. I think many people are so quick to jump on the "he sells it" bandwagon that they fail to read the details of posts and put up their "sales objection shield" way to early to learn anything. The fact that he may or may not sell the product doesn't change the details of the experience. We can all learn and use the information and I don't think he, or anyone else, is going to reach through the computer screen and separate us from our wallets.
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Old 05-14-2009, 10:05 AM   #90
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Originally Posted by markdoane View Post
The 3/4" bolts should be torqued to 270ft-lbs if grade 5, or up to 380 ft-lbs if grade 8.
You had questioned my mention of 45 lbs as the torque for the head bolts.

45 lbs was mentioned by the poster just before mine, post #79. I was explaining that 45 lbs was too low a torque setting to hold the head to the shank, a friction contact.

The quality control on the clearance between the head and the shank is none existent for both Reese and Equalizer. That interface relies on the friction of the 2 surfaces to restrain the movement of the upper bolt in a slotted hole, thus the high torque requirements.

The lack of quality control of the 2 parts results in a need to file the head to allow it to even go on the shank in some cases.

On heads that were the opening is too large, for a friction fit, even 290 ft lbs of torque will not bend the plates of the heads enough to provide the frictional contact to hold the head in place given an elongated hole around the upper bolt. Thus it is necessary to have to shim the space between them. Not shimming this space will produce unnecessary strain in the head casting.

There once was a reasonable level of quality control, at least with Reese products, but now that they are made in Mexico all bets are off. The last 4 parts I bought from Reese all had to be exchanged for some form of manufacturing mistake.

I currently have a letter into Reese questioning 2 design mistakes in their current head. Mine wore out is less than 4 years. While they have at least designed their newer head not to require an exotic wrench to tighten the ball nut they have placed the oiling holes for the top trunnion too far to the rear so none of the oil ever gets to the mating surfaces. The upper trunnion cup has far less material then is required to support the load on the bars. I replaced this newer design with an older head I had used for close to 20 years.
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Old 05-14-2009, 10:30 AM   #91
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Maybe QC south of our border means "quantity control", or maybe "quell control?"

The quality ambitious labor effort seems to have gone to that funny "weed" and "sniffing" stuff that they are well known for growing very well.

Andy
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Old 05-14-2009, 10:55 AM   #92
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Regarding the friction between the hitch head and the shank:
Equal-i-zer recommends that the two 3/4" bolts are only hand tight
before hooking up the bars. The head comes to rest against the
washer pin, and the set bolt is then tightened. The final step
is tightening the 3/4" bolts to the 320 ft/lbs recommended.
Unless I am missing something. But my torque wrench doesn't go
high enough, so its kind of a guess for me on the 320 lbs.

After a couple of years of messing around with this hitch I think I
finally have it where I want it. The ride is ok, the weight is shifted,
it is quiet enough if you keep it greased. There are drawbacks to every
system it seems, but for now I'm happy with this one.

Terry
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Old 05-14-2009, 11:32 AM   #93
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My thinking on this is that with the bars hooked up, the torque on the top hitch head bolt (the one that bent) doesn't matter. But if you don't torque the top bolt to specs the bolt will bend, a) if you have too few washers, b) if you try moving the trailer without the bars on, c) if you hit a big bump and start to porpoise.

Anytime you don't have at least a couple hundred pounds pushing the hitch head up against the washers, you're likely to bend the bolt if (when) the bars come unloaded.
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Old 05-14-2009, 08:25 PM   #94
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The bolts I meant in post #77 are the ones on the shank which attach it to head. I was in that post referring to another post, but should have been more specific. Despite the need to tighten the top one every week or so, it works fine. Not having a torque wrench that goes so high, I guess too. I will pick up more washers when I get home and do it right, but it's been working fine regardless of how tight the top bolt is.

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Old 05-15-2009, 07:49 PM   #95
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Body torque.

Hi, sometimes we need to use what I call body torque. Lock your back-up wrench against something solid and then stand on your breaker bar. This will give you the length of the bar's leverage plus your weight. [works for me]
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Old 05-16-2009, 03:40 AM   #96
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I find it difficult to see how that 3/4" bolt bent to that extent, if the hitch was adjusted properly, AND the shank bolts were torqued properly close to 300 ft lbs...and in any event, the bolt did remain intact, doing it's job of holding things together...in this case, 'bending' is lots better than 'shearing'...

Sure, the bent bolt was then probably more prone to breaking, had it not been replaced - and grade 8 bolts are a good replacement - I've seen grade 8 bolts 'bend' much worse, and not break - their strong point, for sure!

I'm wondering if that 3/4" bolt bent during an unexpected event - like hitting a 'speed bump' one didn't see in time...3/4" hardware is beefy stuff, and just normally doesn't bend like that without being 'tweaked' a bit...

I've removed my shank bolts at least four times during the initial adjustment period on two TV's, and haven't seen any hint of stress or 'bending'...I use a large box-end wrench and really 'stand' on that sucker to torque the bolts...

It just goes to show we should all check out our tow-gear often to maintain those systems properly and for our own safety, as well!
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Old 05-23-2009, 06:30 AM   #97
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Question: I have been following the hitch tread with interest. I have a 30 C L 2009 Equal-l-izer 1000 lb S bars. Q:Are my bar's to heavy (over-rated for load) with the following weight data.
SA tongue weight dry: 690
40# LP bottles vs 30#
heavy bed cab ARE est 150-180
bed load with support stuff 150-200
TV Dodge HD 2500 with Cumins Turbo 2007 mega cab

Due I need the lighter 750 spring bars. woppa4
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Old 05-23-2009, 09:46 AM   #98
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Originally Posted by woppa 4 View Post
Question: I have been following the hitch tread with interest. I have a 30 C L 2009 Equal-l-izer 1000 lb S bars. Q:Are my bar's to heavy (over-rated for load) with the following weight data.
SA tongue weight dry: 690
40# LP bottles vs 30#
heavy bed cab ARE est 150-180
bed load with support stuff 150-200
TV Dodge HD 2500 with Cumins Turbo 2007 mega cab

Due I need the lighter 750 spring bars. woppa4
Absolutely, if not even 600 bars, because of the tow vehicles stiffness.

Andy
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