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Old 05-03-2009, 05:22 PM   #71
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A found the top bolt on the hitch head was not tight enough—that's one that you can adjust. The washers were loose and I tightened the bolt.

Gene
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Old 05-08-2009, 06:21 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff View Post
Hey Bob, since you included ProPride in the first paragraph I thought I would comment.

You will never find ANYWHERE I have said that the ProPride is the ONLY safe hitch on the market. I don't even think you can find anywhere Reese has said that about the RDC. In fact, I sell the Reese hitch so I must not believe it is a bad hitch.

As far as the HYPERBOLE of the word ONLY in claims or advertising, you'll only find one company that claims that and there's only two explanations for it. They are ignorant of the facts that there are other options for sway control/elimination, or it is just flat out dishonesty. The market will choose and has been doing so rather smartly as of late.
Sean, I know you represent ProPride and were previously with Hensley. Has ProPride made improvements that make it easier to hook-up than the Arrow? I am looking for greater stability but also want ease of hook-up. I only have a 22ft Safari with an Eazy Lift with friction sway control. The last trip I took ( in March) I was fighting a cross-wind and it was very tiring and it was only a 3 hour drive. I have changed my TV since that trip but will probably change the hitch, as well. I know you also sell the Reese. jc
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Old 05-08-2009, 06:33 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyrivet View Post
Sean, I know you represent ProPride and were previously with Hensley. Has ProPride made improvements that make it easier to hook-up than the Arrow? I am looking for greater stability but also want ease of hook-up. I only have a 22ft Safari with an Eazy Lift with friction sway control. The last trip I took ( in March) I was fighting a cross-wind and it was very tiring and it was only a 3 hour drive. I have changed my TV since that trip but will probably change the hitch, as well. I know you also sell the Reese. jc

YES, the internal hitchbox has been redesigned along with the wedges on the hitch bar. What used to be a DAILY call into the orange company with hitching and unhitching problems has turned into 4 calls out of 800+ hitches sold with the ProPride 3P. Based on my experience with the orange hitch phone calls and the number of calls I have had for the 3P I would say the change is a DRAMATIC improvement.
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Old 05-08-2009, 06:45 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by spikesss View Post
for 22' is this an adequate hitch. any negatives? equal-i-zer brand that is!!!!
Towing a 31' Classic, I found no difference between a Reese WD/friction anti-sway, and the Equal-i-zer 1200/12000... that is, both equally poor. My Hensley Arrow is superior in every aspect.
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Old 05-08-2009, 06:51 PM   #75
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Towing a 31' Classic, I found no difference between a Reese WD/friction anti-sway, and the Equal-i-zer 1200/12000... that is, both equally poor. My Hensley Arrow is superior in every aspect.

They are like comparing apples to cashew nuts. They don't even belong in the same category. The only similarity is that they connect the trailer to the tow vehicle. As many have found out, that is where the similarities end.
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Old 05-08-2009, 11:02 PM   #76
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Equal-i-zer alert

I have an Equal-i-zer WD system. I was adding a washer today to tweak the set up when I noticed a potential problem--one of the two bolts holding the
head assembly to the shank was bent. One of the two holes on the head was
ovalized. I called tech support at Equal-i-zer and they said that I should replace the the grade 5 bolts with grade 8 bolts. They said that there have been cases where one of the bolts have sheared, but that the second bolt held.
My take on the Equal-i-zer system is that it works ok but is not perfect.
I don't like the fact that the friction increases quite a lot the more you
distribute the weight forward. You can feel it hanging through the steering on a straight road. I have bent the bars before--this is not uncommon, according to tech support. It can be noisy.

The upshot of the bent bolts is that I should have kept the set bolt tight.
I check this frequently, however it won't stay tight if the bolts are bending
and the hole is widening.

Sometimes the Hensley and the ProPride seem more and more attractive.
Expensive though. If anyone wants to see what the bent bolt looks like
I'll take a picture.

Terry
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Old 05-12-2009, 11:09 AM   #77
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Terry,

Take the picture. That top bolts loosens from time to time on mine and I have to adjust and tighten. As it loosens a space opens up at the washers.

Gene
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Old 05-12-2009, 10:22 PM   #78
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Terry,

Take the picture. That top bolts loosens from time to time on mine and I have to adjust and tighten. As it loosens a space opens up at the washers.

Gene
Hi, My top bolt never came loose; That is one large bolt, tighten the heck out of it. I used a trailer ball wrench on one side and a large 1/2" breaker bar with a deep impact socket on the other side.
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Old 05-12-2009, 11:49 PM   #79
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We need pictures... I thiink everyne is thinking about different top bolts.

- The hitch ball itself, which is difficult to tighten on an Equal-i-zer due to clearance problems. Requires a special socket wrench.
- The two bolts where the bar sockets pivot. These must be set to 45 ft/lbs. They appear to loosen as the sockets wear against the main casting, so check the torque often.
- The bolts that hold the head to the shank.
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Old 05-13-2009, 06:06 AM   #80
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The bolts that hold the head to the shank. Sometimes that mating is loose, do to casting, and 45 lbs on the bolts won't pull the 2 together. I have had to make a thin shim plate to place between the head and shank in order to fill the gap and then tighten the bolts to insure proper load between the head and shank.
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Old 05-13-2009, 08:50 AM   #81
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I find all of the "my hitching setup is better than your hitching setup" discussions interesting. There are so many different opinions on the subject that these threads never fail to get people riled up. My rig goes against almost everything ever written on this forum. I tow my vintage 25' with a one ton dually. Is it too much truck for the trailer? Maybe. Can I afford to buy a second truck JUST to tow the Airstream and hang on to the dually for towing the big stuff? Nope. So, I ditched the WD hitch that I own in favor of a plain old hitch with enough drop for the trailer to run level. I bought an adapter to allow for use of a friction type anti-sway device. This setup has served me well for quite a while now even through some nasty cross winds. My truck is just three feet short of being the same length as the trailer and outweighs it by more than 3,000 pounds. With that setup, I've never popped a rivet or damaged the trailer in any way. There's no one solution that works universally for every tow vehicle with every trailer. I use what works for me and the equipment that I have, even though I've been told it can't be done. I do most of my camping in the appalachians, and I see a lot of other campers struggling to maintain control while driving through the mountains, often from not having enough truck to do the job or a poorly set up hitch or both.
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Old 05-13-2009, 09:25 PM   #82
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Bent bolts

Sorry it took so long to post these pictures. We're getting ready for the
Area 33 rally and other things cropped up, like stinky holding tank syndrome. After much sniffing around my wife (JanetB)
located the source--the area near the bottom of the toilet.
I pulled the toilet today and replaced the plastic gasket,
and whadaya know, no more smells! When we first got the
trailer there was a leak behind the toilet in the supply line
and I had to remove the toilet to tighten the compression fitting.
What I neglected to do was replace the gasket, thinking that it was
rubber and re-usable. Turns out they're not. When the toilet was out
Janet (ever the RN) cleaned and sanitized the entire thing.
She's sorry she didn't get a picture of me sitting on it outside
the trailer in the thinker position.

But on to the Equal-i-zer. Here are the pictures of the grade 5 bolts
and the grade 8 bolts. The first picture is the bent upper 3/4" bolt
that attaches the hitch head to the shank. The second picture is
the hash marks indicating the grading, 3 for the 5, six for the
grade eight. The last picture shows the location of the bolts,
for reference.

Terry
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Old 05-13-2009, 10:01 PM   #83
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The bolts that hold the head to the shank. Sometimes that mating is loose, do to casting, and 45 lbs on the bolts won't pull the 2 together. I have had to make a thin shim plate to place between the head and shank in order to fill the gap and then tighten the bolts to insure proper load between the head and shank.
The 3/4" bolts should be torqued to 270ft-lbs if grade 5, or up to 380 ft-lbs if grade 8.
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Old 05-13-2009, 11:04 PM   #84
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I don't understand how tons of faith can be put into any brand of equalizing hitch, where the owner must be on the look out for bent bolts.

Surely the manufacturer is aware of that problem.

Not provide adequate quality hardware, to me, is a huge negative, and an absolute major strike against the Equalizer brand hitch.

That's not even mentioning the excessive rigidity of their torsion bars, and the couple of inches for friction sway control, HUH!!!

Of the good, better and best ratings, I personally rate the Equalizer as "good" only because that's as low a rating you can have.

Ask Sears.

Andy
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