I have an Equilizer Hitch that I bought through Craig's list.
I downloaded the manual and set it up as best I could without a trailer. The dealer doesn't want to touch a hitch they didn't sell.
They sell, and install the Equilizer for $800. Yikes! I set mine up as instructed and the dealer compromised by having their hitch "expert" mount the L brackets and adjust the hitch for one hour's labor. Okay.
In reality, your tow vehicle rode smoother because your TV springs absorbed all the flex, not the hitch. The bars lift the back and push down on the front.
Adjusting the hitch is not brain surgery, just time consuming. Also, you'll need a couple of 1 1/8" deep sockets and a stout breaker bar. (and a piece of pipe, er, torque amplifier).
Start with the unloaded ball height, and measure the distance of the wheel wells too. From there it's a matter of moving parts.
I started with four washers on the rivet. The expert didn't change that. The washers determine the tilt of the head, and therefore the pressure on the bars. (adding or subtracting washers means disassembling the entire hitch, yes, time consuming.) You can also move the "L" brackets up or down also.
Anyway, I was prepared to undo what the hitch guy did, but the rig towed so well, I'm in no hurry to change. I'll take it to a Cat scale and see how the weight is distributed first.
By towing without the bars you made the back sag, and you also had no sway resistance. The bars resist moving forward and back and stop sway.
I think back to the 80's and I towed a large boat trailer with a Chevy Malibu with a bumper hitch, and the back end almost dragging the ground. Back then we just did it without regard for WD. "We'll just take it easy!".
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