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02-04-2006, 10:29 AM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
2007 27' International CCD FB
1987 25' Sovereign
1977 23' Safari
North Olmsted
, Ohio
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 135
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Equal-I-zer v/s Reese dual cam
New trailer, new hitch .....
Our first AS was a 77 Safari, 23 ft., which I towed from Maryland to Ohio using only the Reese WD hitch. After settling in we upgraded to the Dual cam set up that went with the WD hitch. (straight line) My towing impression of this system, Xcellent.
New AS, a 87 Sovereign, 25 ft, which I towed from Florida to Ohio using only the Reese WD hitch. The Sovereign seemed to tow better than the Safari.
NOTE: The 77 and 87 were towed with a borrowed WD hitch. The Reese Straightline setup was sold with the Safari.
Time for a new hitch set up. I've been looking towards the Equal-I-zer because of the ease of hitching up. My wife would like the HA, but out of our price range. Her second choice is the Reese Straightline only because it proved it's reliability with the other AS.
My question, is there much difference between the two hitches re: sway control and durability?
__________________
You never know what you can do
until you try to undo what you did.
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02-04-2006, 10:44 AM
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#2
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My Grandparents Airstream
2007 28' Safari SE
Hillsboro
, Texas
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 174
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I think most people would tell you that both are good hitches. If you do a search on this topic you will find lots of threads on hitches and pros and cons of each. I like the reese because thats what I have but the Equal-I-zer is also a good hitch. Your wife must have expensive tast if she wants a HA or lots of money to throw away.
__________________
Andrew Selking
WBCCI #6062
International 3rd Vice President
"Airstream the Best trailer ever built."
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02-04-2006, 11:00 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,183
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Two years ago I sold my 1977 Argosy 22 to a gentleman that towed it with a Toyota Tundra from Metro-Detroit to Salt Lake City.
He brought a brand new Equal-I-Zer hitch with him.
I have towed Airstreams and Argosys since I was 16 and I have always used the standard Reese W/D hitch with an anti-sway bar set-up. Never really had problems but I always towed with a big TV or a small AS or Argosy.
When he got back to Salt Lake City he called me and said the hitch worked awesome. He has now towed it all over the west with the same set-up.
I do not suggest one over the other as long as you use safe towing and hitching practices.
I know of a gentleman that tows a Minuet with nothing more than the ball mount on a 3/4 ton pick-up. He has complained about the fact that he cannot pull the trailer any faster than 55 mph or it sways all over the place. I tell him consantly to let me know when he is pulling and I will stay off the Interstate.
Just wanted to tell you the success story of the Equal-I-Zer.
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02-04-2006, 11:33 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1977 31' Sovereign
1963 26' Overlander
1989 34' Excella
Johnsburg
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,944
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Reese Straight vs Equalizer
The simple Reese (without the frictional damper or twin cam) does not have any dampening action except the friction in the ball and trunions. The Equalizer automatically comes with some sway dampening because of the friction where the weight distribution bars rub on the trailer connection points. If you need sway dampening because of relative size difference of trailer to tow vehicle or a shorter wheelbase TV, I would go for the twin cam but the frictional dampener Reese of Equalizer should be equal.
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02-04-2006, 01:02 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1975 29' Ambassador
Reno
, Nevada
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,351
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Both the DC and the EQ are step up from the friction bar and indications are that they are about equivalent in handling improvement. For a new setup, I think the EQ has the advantage as it is a simpler setup.
What is missing in the equation is the tow vehicle. Sway control devices compensate for tow vehicle and other deficiencies. (best word I can find- not intended to be negative as all rigs have deficiencies). For instance, a long wheelbase half ton or better pickup with short differential to ball distance and a heavy front end doesn't really need either load leveling or sway control. But if you have a vehicle designed for passenger comfort first with a soft suspension and long rear hangover, an HA might be the only way you are going to have comfortable handling.
A longer and heavier trailer will tend to handle better as it takes more to push it around and it has more leverage to control it.
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02-04-2006, 01:28 PM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member
2007 27' International CCD FB
1987 25' Sovereign
1977 23' Safari
North Olmsted
, Ohio
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leipper
What is missing in the equation is the tow vehicle. Sway control devices compensate for tow vehicle and other deficiencies.
A longer and heavier trailer will tend to handle better as it takes more to push it around and it has more leverage to control it.
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Ahhh hah.... I did forget to mention that the tow vehicle was the same for both units, 04 Burb, 4W/D, 5.3L w/3:70 gears.
__________________
You never know what you can do
until you try to undo what you did.
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02-04-2006, 01:56 PM
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#7
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1977 31' Sovereign
Kalispell
, Montana
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 276
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__________________
1977 31' landyacht Sovereign
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02-10-2006, 07:22 PM
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#8
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Grand Rapids
, Michigan
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blucloud
New trailer, new hitch .....
Our first AS was a 77 Safari, 23 ft., which I towed from Maryland to Ohio using only the Reese WD hitch. After settling in we upgraded to the Dual cam set up that went with the WD hitch. (straight line) My towing impression of this system, Xcellent.
New AS, a 87 Sovereign, 25 ft, which I towed from Florida to Ohio using only the Reese WD hitch. The Sovereign seemed to tow better than the Safari.
NOTE: The 77 and 87 were towed with a borrowed WD hitch. The Reese Straightline setup was sold with the Safari.
Time for a new hitch set up. I've been looking towards the Equal-I-zer because of the ease of hitching up. My wife would like the HA, but out of our price range. Her second choice is the Reese Straightline only because it proved it's reliability with the other AS.
My question, is there much difference between the two hitches re: sway control and durability?
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Excuse me, but I'm a newbie here. I just bought a 19" Bambi in Florida and will be towing back to Michigan with 2002 Yukon Denali. I will need to purchase a weight distubution and sway package. What is HA? What would ya'll recommend for me? Should I buy something here in MI, or from the AS dealer when I pick up the little silver bugger?
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02-10-2006, 08:01 PM
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#9
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1977 31' Sovereign
Kalispell
, Montana
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double D
Excuse me, but I'm a newbie here. I just bought a 19" Bambi in Florida and will be towing back to Michigan with 2002 Yukon Denali. I will need to purchase a weight distubution and sway package. What is HA? What would ya'll recommend for me? Should I buy something here in MI, or from the AS dealer when I pick up the little silver bugger?
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If you were to buy the Reese Dual Cam you will need to drill holes into your trailer A frame to mount the Duel Cam hanger brackets. The Equal-I- zer you do not need to drill holes to mount, The Hensley is the best on the market but also costs big bucks, here is there link to check them out
__________________
1977 31' landyacht Sovereign
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02-10-2006, 08:28 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1958 26' Overlander
Mesa
, Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,742
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Equil-i-zer
Both hitches are quality units. I've had the Equal-i-zer now for 3 years andI love it. No worries on the road.
__________________
1958 Overlander
2011 Wolf Creek 850N TC
2011 Ford F-250 Crewcab (6.2L), 3.73RE
WBCCI #5661/AIR #5661/TAC # AZ-6
4CU 1st VP
My '58 Overlander Restoration and Travel Blog:
https://mellomikesairstreams.blogspot.com/
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02-11-2006, 12:49 AM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double D
Excuse me, but I'm a newbie here. I just bought a 19" Bambi in Florida and will be towing back to Michigan with 2002 Yukon Denali. I will need to purchase a weight distubution and sway package. What is HA? What would ya'll recommend for me? Should I buy something here in MI, or from the AS dealer when I pick up the little silver bugger?
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HA = Hensley Arrow, about $3K
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02-11-2006, 06:32 AM
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#12
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Just an old timer...
2004 22' Interstate
Tipton
, Iowa
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double D
Excuse me, but I'm a newbie here. I just bought a 19" Bambi in Florida and will be towing back to Michigan with 2002 Yukon Denali. I will need to purchase a weight distubution and sway package. What is HA? What would ya'll recommend for me? Should I buy something here in MI, or from the AS dealer when I pick up the little silver bugger?
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Either the Reese Dual Cam or the Equalizer will do you fine for a Bambi 19' behind a Yukon. The HA is a superb hitch, but won't do any better job controlling a trailer of your size and weight than the other two, and it weighs significantly more.
Sway is caused by inappropriate weight loading, tongue weight that is less than 10-15% of the total load weight, low or unbalanced tire pressures, and either warn suspension parts or good ol' design flaws in the suspension on the tow vehicle. Once you eliminate those as causes of sway, your trailer shouldn't, and your sway control hitch will just be an added measure of safety.
Roger
__________________
havin' to fix my broken Airstreams since 1987...
AIR 2053 Current: 2004 Airstream Interstate "B-Van" T1N DODGE Sprinter
Former Airstreams: 1953 Flying Cloud, 1957 Overlander, 1961 Bambi, 1970 Safari Special, 1978 Argosy Minuet, 1985 325 Moho, 1994 Limited 34' Two-door, 1994 B190 "B-Van"
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02-11-2006, 10:35 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1975 29' Ambassador
Reno
, Nevada
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,351
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Ghee Whiz. It is beginning to appear that the Reese DC contingent is catching the Hensley Arrow disease ;-)
When the sales hype gets going, so should the rational buyer!
A Burb has a medium wheelbase and medium to long axle to ball distance. Load leveling is nearly always needed. Handling can often be satisfactory with good tires and the other things Roger metions. Most folks find a friction bar sufficient but a DC or EQ often adds a bit of comfort. IMHO and HA is a bit of overkill for a 'Burb but there are those who find security in a big heavy orange blob between them and their trailer!
IMHO, of course, usual caveats apply. Safe driving starts and ends with the nut behind the wheel.
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02-11-2006, 03:21 PM
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#14
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Grand Rapids
, Michigan
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidh
If you were to buy the Reese Dual Cam you will need to drill holes into your trailer A frame to mount the Duel Cam hanger brackets. The Equal-I- zer you do not need to drill holes to mount, The Hensley is the best on the market but also costs big bucks, here is there link to check them out
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Thanks for the tips. Sounds like the Equal-i-zer is the way to go...
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02-11-2006, 03:22 PM
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#15
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Grand Rapids
, Michigan
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldwing70
HA = Hensley Arrow, about $3K
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Wow, a tad pricey for me. Thanks for the heads-up!
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02-11-2006, 03:25 PM
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#16
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Grand Rapids
, Michigan
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85MH325
Either the Reese Dual Cam or the Equalizer will do you fine for a Bambi 19' behind a Yukon. The HA is a superb hitch, but won't do any better job controlling a trailer of your size and weight than the other two, and it weighs significantly more.
Sway is caused by inappropriate weight loading, tongue weight that is less than 10-15% of the total load weight, low or unbalanced tire pressures, and either warn suspension parts or good ol' design flaws in the suspension on the tow vehicle. Once you eliminate those as causes of sway, your trailer shouldn't, and your sway control hitch will just be an added measure of safety.
Roger
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Thanks. I appreciate the positive reinforcement. It boosts my confidence in my TV.
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