Equal-i-zer removal problem

[Too tall]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

I did two tubes because I wanted to keep the bars from dinging each other. In hindsight, two bars are HEAVY. With one bar per tube, I can slide it to the tailgate and tip it to slide out the bar. I added the handles to keep them from rolling (they don't much) and to hook them with a boathook if they end up at the front of the bed (they do). I was going to tie them together, but that made it too heavy.
No kidding!

One cap is glued on, and I used the inside thread cap and fitting on the open end. Not sure why, it's worked out fine, the bar slides right out.
Everything is a work in progress. I keep thinking I can make things better.

Everything was going well until I realized that my tailgate grazes the jack. Lifting that python out before I hitch would require a functioning brain. I'm putting the bars into the (silly) underbelly tube and will look at replacing that with something more substantial. What could go wrong?

[Adventure.AS]

Originally Posted by Too tall

... I'm putting the bars into the (silly) underbelly tube and will look at replacing that with something more substantial. What could go wrong?

That is a good idea for straight bars. Double duty - sewer hose in the tube when traveling, equalizer bars when camped and sewer hose hooked up.

I have Eaz-Lift WD hitch and the bars are L-shaped so I store them in the bumper compartment along with the anti-sway bars and spare sewer hose. My main waste hose is kept in the adequate under belly tube.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by Too tall

Everything was going well until I realized that my tailgate grazes the jack.

Mine does too. So the drill is to leave the bars, uncouple, pull forward a couple feet. It's easier that way since I can walk around the bars after disconnecting.
Same when packing up. Put bars on hitch, back into position. It feels normal.
Someday I'll try that shank I bought that's 3.5" longer than the stock. Maybe if I add Rock Tamers.

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

I'm only the messenger.
I don't have a manual, although I've read online to familiar myself with the concept.
My point was that If I followed the advice by the company, I wouldn't have been able to move the arms at all.
So I tightened the bolts until I was able to move the bars with some effort, but not have to kick them. After all, the friction comes from the bars moving fore and aft, not sideways.

I was cleaning my hitch today and noticed this sticker. The owners manual .pdf says minimum of 60. I guess I should take the stickers off. I always thought they were a little low, at 45 ft-lbs.