Equal-i-zer Hitch Thread.

[abone]

I just spoke to Andy at CanAmRv, the bars are not interchangeable according to him. He suggested as a last resort drilling another hole in the shank to move the hitch closer to the truck in order to shift some weight.
I've got a call into Progress Mfg to confirm the interchangeability of the bars but it makes sense they are not, as the hole is sized for the bar. A bigger bar wouldn't fit.

[m.hony]

Originally Posted by m.hony

The bars are interchangeable in the Equal-I-zer Original 4-point Sway Control hitch.


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I am wrong about this.
From Equal-i-zer's website:
Single (1) replacement spring arm for the 12,000 lb. model of the Equal-i-zer® hitch. This arm is only compatible with the matching weight rating hitch head.

[mefly2]

Originally Posted by avionstream

I was always told that the heavier the tv, the lighter the WD bars.

I "shaved" our 1000# bars (see previous detailed post) with our F150 and use the same "machined" bars and head on our 2500. The beauty of the Equalizer hitch is the almost infinite adjustability ... no need to buy a different hitch when we went from 20-25' or from F150 to Ram 2500 to GM 2500. The same can not be said, however, for the drop on the shank/stinger ... we are now on the second stinger and had to drill (took quite some time even with a drill press and $$$ drill bit) another hole in the previous shank as well as chop some off of the shank when we went from 20-25' and 150 to 2500. Thankfully, the AS dealer allowed a trade-in value on the old shank.

[ATownTX]

Hi all, any advice is definitely appreciated.

My setup:
TV: Chevy Colorado Z71 4x4
TT: 2016 FC 19'
10K lb Equalizer hitch

So far I have mounted the hitch ball to the head and installed the hitch head on the stock shank (3" max drop). I've installed 5 washers for my first go.

The ball height, installed at the max drop possible on the shank, is 19.5" to the top of ball. The ball height spec for the trailer is 17.75". I have not yet leveled the trailer and measured the actual height to the top of the coupler. I plan on completing the setup tomorrow morning and I'm hoping I don't have to buy another shank with a larger drop... fingers crossed.

Does anyone have any last minute advice before I begin the setup?

[ATownTX]

I've finished the install of the Equal-i-Zer hitch. Setting up per the instructions (2 holes showing on the "L" bracket), I wound up with 2 washers on the head rivet after adjusting the weight distribution. When i took it to my AS dealer to get their assistance in torquing the shank bolts, the shop foreman suggested using four washers, and to readjust the "L" bracket to get the proper distribution. The "L" bracket now has one hole showing at the top. With his impact wrench, we made the final adjustments and torqued down the bolts in about 10 minutes. No charge.

Final Comments:
1. 3/4" deep-socket needed for the link-plate bolts (for torque wrench)
2. 1-1/8" deep-socket needed for shank bolts (for torque wrench or breaker bar, in my case)
3. Bottom link-plate bolt on the roadside bracket should be placed directly against the frame. pull the gas line down and slide it through.

Originally Posted by ATownTX

Hi all, any advice is definitely appreciated.

My setup:
TV: Chevy Colorado Z71 4x4
TT: 2016 FC 19'
10K lb Equalizer hitch

So far I have mounted the hitch ball to the head and installed the hitch head on the stock shank (3" max drop). I've installed 5 washers for my first go.

The ball height, installed at the max drop possible on the shank, is 19.5" (19" actual)to the top of ball. The ball height spec for the trailer is 17.75". I have not yet leveled the trailer and measured the actual height to the top of the coupler. I plan on completing the setup tomorrow morning and I'm hoping I don't have to buy another shank with a larger drop... fingers crossed.

Does anyone have any last minute advice before I begin the setup?

[Mollysdad]

One expert says to make the bars thinner for a better ride, while another says to use heavier bars to make the ride better. Progress says to use the correct bars. What's a person to do?

I think I won today, I've been watching Craigslist for a while and scored a lightly used 10,000 pound equ-i-lizer hitch with the ball and all the nuts and bolts for $150. Now all I need is the AS! (The decals on the bars are undamaged, the head has the Progress stamp, and there's almost no rust, even on the stinger.) Tomorrow I'm giving it a scrub and a coat of black paint.
The seller did some work on an AS for sale and traded the hitch for his work, then sold it to me since he had no plan to use it.
I downloaded the installation manual, and I think I have a good grasp of the concept.

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

One expert says to make the bars thinner for a better ride, while another says to use heavier bars to make the ride better. Progress says to use the correct bars. What's a person to do?

I think I won today, I've been watching Craigslist for a while and scored a lightly used 10,000 pound equ-i-lizer hitch with the ball and all the nuts and bolts for $150. Now all I need is the AS! (The decals on the bars are undamaged, the head has the Progress stamp, and there's almost no rust, even on the stinger.) Tomorrow I'm giving it a scrub and a coat of black paint.
The seller did some work on an AS for sale and traded the hitch for his work, then sold it to me since he had no plan to use it.
I downloaded the installation manual, and I think I have a good grasp of the concept.

A used hitch is no bargain. No warranty for one thing. And no knowledge of abuse that'll show up at the wrong time. You don't run re-cap tires do you? Same problems. Worse consequences.

[m.hony]

I bet Equal-I-zer would still guarantee a used/second owner hitch.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by slowmover

A used hitch is no bargain. No warranty for one thing. And no knowledge of abuse that'll show up at the wrong time. You don't run re-cap tires do you? Same problems. Worse consequences.

I knew someone would opine that.
Okay, I've heard the stories of people who paid $750 for exactly the same hitch but installed at a dealer and later had to re-adjust it because the dealer just slapped it on.
Warranty a hitch? Does it have a serial number? I'll check.

And no knowledge of abuse

So the previous owner abused the hitch without wearing the paint off? What? He yelled at it?

[Rocinante]

Equal-i-zer hitches are pretty simple. My bet would be that it if the hitch and its components look like they're in good shape, it's probably fine. Best wishes for happy hitching.

[slowmover]

Not all stress problems can be eyeballed. The pro's use tools such as MagnaFlux on metal parts, and it's not cost effective to do so in this case. Caveat emptor.

[Mollysdad]

In the interest of full disclosure, I looked up the Equal-i-zer's warranty.
It's pretty simple.
1. Warrantied for the life of the hitch to the original owner.
2. The hitch will be repaired or replaced if it is sent with shipping prepaid both ways!

So, essentially, I have no warranty, and since all the parts are available separately, I can't imagine shipping the part back, paying to ship (twice) and instead just buying the broken part.

If a lot of broken Equalizer hitches were showing up, I'd have read about it here!

Same reason I bought a Toyota! Research, plan, execute.

[ATownTX]

Just thinking out loud here - I'm not anywhere near an expert - what should you look for when evaluating a used WD hitch? My understanding is that the head friction surfaces do have a life span, therefore I would look for excessive wear on the friction surfaces of the head. Also look for any obvious fatigue to the head and shank. For the spring bars, I would look for any permanent deformation by laying the bar on a flat surface and look for any unevenness and then consult with the manufacturer to ask how much deformation is tolerable before you have to order new ones. Look for deformation in the brackets too. And I'm wondering if the washers or other hardware would need replacing?

[m.hony]

Equal-I-zer has sent me new parts and didn't ask for the old parts and didn't charge me shipping.
I am the original owner, though.
Equa-I-zer honestly treats you better than that warranty implies.
Call them.
Ask them.
Worst case scenario:
You buy a brand new Equal-I-zer hitch on sale at Camping World for $450...

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by ATownTX

Just thinking out loud here - I'm not anywhere near an expert - what should you look for when evaluating a used WD hitch? My understanding is that the head friction surfaces do have a life span, therefore I would look for excessive wear on the friction surfaces of the head. Also look for any obvious fatigue to the head and shank. For the spring bars, I would look for any permanent deformation by laying the bar on a flat surface and look for any unevenness and then consult with the manufacturer to ask how much deformation is tolerable before you have to order new ones. Look for deformation in the brackets too. And I'm wondering if the washers or other hardware would need replacing?

The PO of my AS gave me the Equalizer he had. He was getting out of the game, spent a good part of his life in TT and 5W. I contacted the folks at Equalizer a couple of times, they were very nice. I think I got a few washers and new decals for free. I've purchased the L-Bracket nylon pads (you want those, BTW) and the L-bracket/spring arm retainers with the spring clips. Those are nice, keep a lot of grease off of your hands.

I think you got a good deal and you can buy replacements/spares from Equalizer. Now go find a nice AS to hook it to.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by richw46

I've purchased the L-Bracket nylon pads (you want those, BTW) and the L-bracket/spring arm retainers with the spring clips. Those are nice, keep a lot of grease off of your hands.

I think you got a good deal and you can buy replacements/spares from Equalizer. Now go find a nice AS to hook it to.

Indeed! The pads are sold on Amazon for $20, they're on my list. I take it the "L brackets with spring clips" are those with a square loop rather than a cotter clip? Thanks for the tip.

Originally Posted by m.hony

Equa-I-zer honestly treats you better than that warranty implies.

Sign of a good company!

Originally Posted by ATownTX

I would look for excessive wear on the friction surfaces of the head. Also look for any obvious fatigue to the head and shank. For the spring bars, I would look for any permanent deformation by laying the bar on a flat surface and look for any unevenness and then consult with the manufacturer to ask how much deformation is tolerable before you have to order new ones. Look for deformation in the brackets too. And I'm wondering if the washers or other hardware would need replacing?

Most of the paint is still in place (and it has not been repainted!) The ball still has 95% of the chrome on it. The grade 8 bolts look perfect as do the head and bars.
The biggest flaw is some sand on the hitch where it looks to have been laid on the ground. Getting a scrub tomorrow.

[Rocinante]

Its easy enough, so I recommend you disassemble the two pivot points in the hitch head, clean them, grease them appropriately, put them back together and torque them to spec, which I believe is 30 Pounds. Super easy, and worth doing from time to time.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by richw46

I've purchased the L-Bracket nylon pads (you want those, BTW) and the L-bracket/spring arm retainers with the spring clips. Those are nice, keep a lot of grease off of your hands.

Help me out here, you seem knowledgeable about the parts.
The reviews on Amazon says you can't use the nylon pads AND the spring clip retainers at the same time. Have you found this to be true?

Also you say the new spring clip retainers help keep grease off your hands. I didn't think one was to grease any parts on the trailer end of the hitch. What say you?

[majorairhead]

If you're referencing the sway bracket jackets......I use them with the stock snap L pins, no problem.

And no grease on that end.....only grease I use is socket pivot points, inside of socket, and ball. When putting the retainer pin through the socket to secure the sway bar....that's when I can get a bit of grease on my hands.

[ATownTX]

Do the sway bracket jackets add weight distribution and did you have to adjust your number of washers?

Also, what grease are you using? The Equalizer brand or just a good bearing grease?