Equal-i-zer Hitch Thread.

[paiceman]

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, Lift your trailer with your power tongue jack and the spring bars will almost fall off. Never had any problem in over ten years.

Thanks for the idea, however, even if I lift it to the top of the jacks ability at times they will not move. And by so doing the jack is showing signs it no longer wants to participate and it's only a 2015. Yesterday I had it all the way to the top, one bar would not budge, had to use another bar to leverage it off.

[VT Wanderer]

I just traded in my 2007 Ram for a 2015 F250. This week I am bringing my AS from storage, 2 miles to a nearby RV dealer to have my Equal-i-zer hitch adjusted to the new truck. (I'm just going over side streets, not highway.) The AS specs say the hitch ball height should be 17 3/4 inch. Should I get the ball as close to the 17+ inch height as possible, and drive over without the sway bars? I know that the bar angle will be way off. Suggestions??????

[kscherzi]

Originally Posted by VT Wanderer

I just traded in my 2007 Ram for a 2015 F250. This week I am bringing my AS from storage, 2 miles to a nearby RV dealer to have my Equal-i-zer hitch adjusted to the new truck. (I'm just going over side streets, not highway.) The AS specs say the hitch ball height should be 17 3/4 inch. Should I get the ball as close to the 17+ inch height as possible, and drive over without the sway bars? I know that the bar angle will be way off. Suggestions??????

I don't see any problem hauling with the bars off for two miles with that truck. Especially if you drive slowly, say under 40.

[Rocinante]

Originally Posted by paiceman

Thanks for the idea, however, even if I lift it to the top of the jacks ability at times they will not move. And by so doing the jack is showing signs it no longer wants to participate and it's only a 2015. Yesterday I had it all the way to the top, one bar would not budge, had to use another bar to leverage it off.

Hey, Paiceman, you may want to get your hitch adjusted, as we've not had this experience with our EQ.

Separately, the jack may be uncooperative if your batteries are low, so that's worth looking at. Worst case, you should still be well under warranty for the jack.

Lastly, we sometimes shortcut the distance our jack has to raise the trailer by putting several lego blocks under it before lifting. Not an absolute necessity, but it hurries things along by saving several inches of jack raising and lowering when un-hitching and then hitching again later.

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by VT Wanderer

I just traded in my 2007 Ram for a 2015 F250. This week I am bringing my AS from storage, 2 miles to a nearby RV dealer to have my Equal-i-zer hitch adjusted to the new truck. (I'm just going over side streets, not highway.) The AS specs say the hitch ball height should be 17 3/4 inch. Should I get the ball as close to the 17+ inch height as possible, and drive over without the sway bars? I know that the bar angle will be way off. Suggestions??????

I pulled my 23' 215 miles to get it home. I just used the hitch and bars the way they were set up for the PO's rig. I had pulled boats and cargo trailers but never an AS. I didn't have a bit of trouble....well, if you don't count that low limb on some tree between there and here. It got stuck in the claw of the Zip-Dee awning.

I think you'll be just fine as long as you're not dragging something.

[mefly2]

Originally Posted by Rocinante

Lastly, we sometimes shortcut the distance our jack has to raise the trailer by putting several lego blocks under it before lifting. Not an absolute necessity, but it hurries things along by saving several inches of jack raising and lowering when un-hitching and then hitching again later.

Try the Progressive "Flip-foot" to accomplish the same thing without all the hassle of moving / carrying wooden blocks.

[m.hony]

I only put leveler pads under the tongue jack or stabilizers if I am on dirt, sand, gravel, or grass. If I am on pavement, tongue jack and stabilizers are on the pavement.
It is not truly stabilized if it is sitting on wood blocks, logs, concrete blocks, etc.
It isn't that hard to crank the stabilizers all the way down. The Airstream is already low to the ground.


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[KJRitchie]

Originally Posted by m.hony

Parallel is recommended, but I couldn't get enough lift/weight transfer or sway control until I raised the L-brackets. They are no longer parallel, but the whole towing experience is better- les bounce in the ride snd less sway when vehicles pass-


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If I raised my L brackets I don't think I could easily put the bars on them without raising the Tundra off the ground. I suppose I could use the lever that is supplied. Can the lever be used to remove the bars?

Kelvin

[m.hony]

Use your electric tongue jack to lift the truck and trailer as high as you need to in order to slip the bars in by hand. All I do is slide the bars back and leave them sitting in the L-brackets, but I still have to lift the truck 'n' trailer to slide the bars into the hitch head. I have never used the supplied lever.





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[pappy19]

I also use my Firestone air bags to lift and level, they are very handy at only $300+.

Pap

[m.hony]

I ain't got no airbags- unless it is me and a buddy talking too much-
That won't lift no truck 'n' trailer-


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[Rich W]

Originally Posted by interstateflyer

I store them in an ABS pipe placed in back of the truck.
It keeps them clean and secure.
I'd hate for them to disappear while on the road.

I copied your creation, but I made mine a little longer so I could also have a "minnie me" for the retainers and pins, fits inside the big one. Thanks for the good idea, hopefully I won't get grease on everything now. My toolbox holder worked but this is much better. I think I'll incorporate Evan's idea of strapping them next to the Slinky for when we're on the road, use the tube to store them at the house when the AS is in the storage lot.

[mefly2]

Originally Posted by richw46

I copied your creation, but I made mine a little longer so I could also have a "minnie me" for the retainers and pins, fits inside the big one. Thanks for the good idea, hopefully I won't get grease on everything now. My toolbox holder worked but this is much better. I think I'll incorporate Evan's idea of strapping them next to the Slinky for when we're on the road, use the tube to store them at the house when the AS is in the storage lot.

Very nice addition to my system posted some time ago in this thread. I have my "tubes" tied / linked together so that they do not roll around ... they are quite heavy as it is; so, I opted to not increase the weight or length.

[interstateflyer]

Originally Posted by richw46

I copied your creation, but I made mine a little longer so I could also have a "minnie me" for the retainers and pins, fits inside the big one. Thanks for the good idea, hopefully I won't get grease on everything now. My toolbox holder worked but this is much better. I think I'll incorporate Evan's idea of strapping them next to the Slinky for when we're on the road, use the tube to store them at the house when the AS is in the storage lot.

Minnie me is a very nice addition.

[VT Wanderer]

We started with a 2007 25' Safari, 2007 Diesel Ram and Equal-i-zer. Did 55,000 miles USA & Canada = beautiful driving. Traded in 25' for 2014 27' FC. No major changes made by dealer as height etc. were basically the same. Did 15,000 miles = perfect towing. Now just got new F250 = big changes in truck height. No AS dealer in area. I didn't want to take any chances as we will be doing 15,000 miles this year. Went to an RV dealer who deals with EQL. Glad that I went there. The fine tuning was beyond me. Drove 40 miles home on the Interstate, and it was a beautiful thing. Here's to many years of safe driving.

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by mefly2

Very nice addition to my system posted some time ago in this thread. I have my "tubes" tied / linked together so that they do not roll around ... they are quite heavy as it is; so, I opted to not increase the weight or length.

I thought about strapping them together but I wanted to be able to take the mini-me to the hitch and just tumble out the clips and pins, trying to keep the grease off me as much as possible. I've thought about the rolling around but I think I can secure in the back of the 4Runner with other junk. I carry two soft sided bags of tools, grease, hand cleaner etc. They should keep it in place.

Since you are the originator, thanks for a really good idea . Did you (or Interstateflyer) consider putting some sort of handle on the caps to help getting them off or a carrying handle on the big tube?

[m.hony]

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[mefly2]

Originally Posted by richw46

I thought about strapping them together but I wanted to be able to take the mini-me to the hitch and just tumble out the clips and pins, trying to keep the grease off me as much as possible. I've thought about the rolling around but I think I can secure in the back of the 4Runner with other junk. I carry two soft sided bags of tools, grease, hand cleaner etc. They should keep it in place.

Since you are the originator, thanks for a really good idea . Did you (or Interstateflyer) consider putting some sort of handle on the caps to help getting them off or a carrying handle on the big tube?

I used two smaller tubes each holding one bar ... they are connected together near each end with a bit of HD nylon cord which provides a "handle" for each end ... very easy carry and no rolling around! I originally had them capped on both ends - with only one cemented in place. As it turns out, I have simply left off the other cap as the bars stay neatly in place inside the PVC tubes with only one end cap..

[paiceman]

Originally Posted by m.hony

Attachment 240647
Attachment 240648


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I like the idea, but what about security and the bars along with the clips being stolen?

Thanks

Bud

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by m.hony

Attachment 240647
Attachment 240648

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Ever think about putting a cable lock through the "eye" of each and locking to the chain? That just seems too tempting to me, I'm not that trustworthy, especially when she's in storage.