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m.hony · 07-27-2013, 01:20 PM

Here she is, ready for the road. I cannot imagine anything towing better. This setup tows so well. I would love the opportunity to trade rigs with someone for a few miles for comparison and to prove a point. I wonder what a 3/4 ton diesel and a Hensley or ProPride would feel like. I just can't imagine that it could be that much better.

KJRitchie · 08-03-2013, 11:40 AM

What are your bars rated?

How many washers did you have to use? What is your tongue weight.

Thanks

Kelvin

m.hony · 08-03-2013, 01:25 PM

4 washers...

m.hony · 08-03-2013, 01:26 PM

1,200# bars...

johnamjr · 08-20-2013, 07:50 PM

I have been doing a lot of research and have found the EQ to be my choice. One thing I am still uneasy about is what weight system should I use? the 6000Lb GTW / 600TW or the 10,000lb GTW / 1000lb TW? My TV is a 08 f150 4.6 2wd the AS 1970 25' TW. Any help with this would be appreciated. Also any pointers would be great. I have experience towing but its been 10 yrs. and we are almost ready to get this TW on the road.

Gene · 08-20-2013, 08:01 PM

The 1970 Tradewind with double bed has a dry weight of 4,250 lbs. and a tongue wt. of 445. The twin bed model is 4,290 and 455. I don't have numbers for GVWR, but the 600 lb. bars sound ok to me.

Gene

johnamjr · 08-20-2013, 08:32 PM

Yea I cant seem to find the GVWR numbers anywhere. Thats part of why I hesitate. If you look at the model year that do have them listed it seems to be a fluctuation of a 1000-2000lbs GVWR and adds 1-200 lbs to the GTW. I dont see me exceeding 1000 lbs of additional stuff.

KJRitchie · 08-27-2013, 10:36 AM

I have an old Snap On torque wrench that is rated to 250lbs but the large bolts on the head require 320ft/lbs. I guess you need a long extension to put the much torque on the nuts. I think the dealer only used a air wrench to put my Equalizer on. I could hear it going while we were inside going through the orientation. They showed me the trailer was level with the trailer hitched to the Tundra.

How many of you have added/removed washers yourself? What torque wrench did you use? It seems once you get over 250ft/lbs torque wrenches get very expensive.
Maybe I can rent one somewhere?

Or should I just take my truck with the Equalizer head to an RV repair and have them add the washer? How much change can I expect with one washer added to the 4 I have?

Thanks for any advice.

Kelvin

dznf0g · 08-27-2013, 11:11 AM

I used to use Eq and did a lot of research....If I were in your shoes, I'd go 6000/600.

dznf0g · 08-27-2013, 11:12 AM

Kelvin, I just use a box end wrench and give it all I've got. Has never let me down.....but as I age, I'm not too sure what I had is still what I got.

eheffa · 08-27-2013, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

For me to switch to the teflon bracket jackets I'd have to purchase a set of the old pins to use them. The new style pins with the spring clip doesn't work with the current bracket jackets. Equalizer should come out with a new set of jackets.

Kelvin

I recently added the Bracket Jackets.

I am able to use the new version pins by simply drilling a new hole in the pin near the tip & putting a Spring clip through that. It holds it in place & unlike the situation with the old pins, they do not fall down too low & get twisted.

I am not at home right now but can provide pics later in the week if my description is inadequate.

-evan

ROBERTSUNRUS · 08-27-2013, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

I have an old Snap On torque wrench that is rated to 250lbs but the large bolts on the head require 320ft/lbs. I guess you need a long extension to put the much torque on the nuts. I think the dealer only used a air wrench to put my Equalizer on. I could hear it going while we were inside going through the orientation. They showed me the trailer was level with the trailer hitched to the Tundra.

How many of you have added/removed washers yourself? What torque wrench did you use? It seems once you get over 250ft/lbs torque wrenches get very expensive.
Maybe I can rent one somewhere?

Or should I just take my truck with the Equalizer head to an RV repair and have them add the washer? How much change can I expect with one washer added to the 4 I have?

Thanks for any advice.

Kelvin

Hi, I have changed my washer count to 6 1/2 washers. One of the washers that I used was about half as thick as the others. I tried seven but the angle was too much and six was not quite enough. To tighten the nuts and bolts on the hitch head, I use a double ended box end wrench to hold one side and a 1/2" breaker bar with a six point socket on the other side. I put a bottle jack under the hitch and stand on the breaker bar. That should be tight enough. I replaced all of the nuts and bolts with grade eight.

johnamjr · 08-27-2013, 03:02 PM

Just ordered the 6000/600 system. Thanks. I also have been doing a lot research. It seems to be a good match with the f150.

johnamjr · 08-27-2013, 03:04 PM

I also did find the gvwr in the the new owners manual I ordered. For my 70 tw.

JimGolden · 08-27-2013, 07:30 PM

Kelvin,

The bolt that you tighten to keep the head unit tight against the washers only requires around 50 ft-lbs. It's not that big a bolt. If you went to 250 ft-lbs on it, you'd probably snap it.

Changing the washers is very easy. You just pull that bolt out, swing the head back, and you can pull out the fitting that the washers sit on. Nothing to it.

The only bolt on the EQ that gets torqued that much is the one holding the ball in place. I went to a truck shop that had the special thin wall socket that would fit, and an impact gun that could go up to 750 ft-lbs tightening (we went to 450 as per the directions). They didn't charge me anything. I can't imagine anyone wanting too much for this. It's a two minute job.

Anyway, don't fear the washers. They're a piece of cake.

Take care,

KJRitchie · 08-27-2013, 08:48 PM

So you don't have to loosen the two 3/4" bolts that mount the head onto the receiver shank to add or remove washers?

Kelvin

No. 13 · 08-27-2013, 09:35 PM

Kelvin...yes you do. It has been awhile...but you may even have to remove one bolt to pivot back far enough. If you read Bob's post above...a half washer can make a difference...but once tuned in the hitch is great.

It took me a number of fine adjustments..but between the height of the hitch, the number of washers used and the position of the L brackets on the frame, there are a lot of options to get dialed in where it just feels right.

We take lots of short weekend trips...about 30 so far since purchase. I have not adjusted in about a year...I just make sure everything is lubed and torqued every few trips. I tend to just check for looseness rather than get out the torque wrench every trip.

I have been fortunate that my L brackets don't move around like some posts I have read. My particular adjustment with a Tundra keeps the L-brackets in upper position which eliminates some of that pivot leverage.

My EQ hitch which is only 2 years old has the L bracket mount that is drilled and tapped into the frame...not sure that the newer ones are.