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Old 02-19-2013, 08:45 AM   #99
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Hi Robert,

What is Lincoln's Owner Manual recommendation. I don't disagree with GM's recommendation....I just think it is incomplete and it would be very easy to inadvertently get your WD all out of whack if you need to "key on" at any time during your TV or AS loading process...or before the hitching and WD application. Once you get the "neutral" point set and WD is right for the particular trip(s), providing no significant load change, you are good to go.
Using air shocks or air bags, requires considerable caution.

Back in 1970, we demonstrated and proved that any inflation over and above the minimum, will progressively defeat the purpose of a load equalizing hitch.

Leveling a tow vehicle that way, really takes that additional weight away from the bars, and redistribution.

Actually, the more weight impressed on the bars, at least to a point, the better the overall handling becomes.

Several owners here on this Forums, have already confirmed that fact.

Andy
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:57 AM   #100
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What Andy says is true, and the thrust of my comments. However, the auto leveling systems are a little different caution than manual air shocks. If you find the "neutral" position after loaded and hitched with WD, the auto suspension will not affect the rear axle load in any significant way UNLESS you change the load of the AS or TV relatively significantly. The caution about DISABLING the system permently (while on a towing trip) is that these systems are calculated into the algorythms of several other systems, like sway control, stability control, and ABS (to a lesser extent IMO), and active suspensions systems.
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:38 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by SSquared View Post
I'm considering what WD hitch to get for my new trailer. I have never seen an Equalizer and have some questions.

  • What is the total weight of the WD hitch, including the parts left attached to the tongue?
  • What is the weight of the drawbar/ball mount assembly?
  • Will there be any interference with the battery box, front storage door, or propane tanks & lines?
  • Can it be hitched up and unhitched easily (including the bars) when the TT and TV are not in a straight line?
  • What weight bars would work best with my rig? The trailer will be a 2013 flying cloud FB (837 hitch weight empty, 5503 base weight, 7300 max weight). The TV will be a 2010 GMC Yukon Denali (short wheelbase).
I did weigh the hitch head with ball once and promptly forgot the answer, but I think it was around 50 lbs., maybe less. It feels heavier because it is so unwieldy. Never weighed the rest.

No interference with anything like the propane cover or battery box. The propane line under the curbside of the tongue has to be moved below the bottom of the tongue to accommodate one of the bolts for the brackets on the tongue. This is not all that difficult. It can be installed with the bolt below the propane line, but the bracket tends to bend if you do.

When the tow vehicle and trailer are not in a straight line, I haven't had a problem hitching or unhitching, but that only means that we were only 10˚ or so off center. I don't recall ever having to be more off center. The problem with (un)hitching is when the ground is uneven and, for us, at home the front of the truck is higher than the rear and that makes getting the second bar on or off hard sometimes. Getting it on with the lever they supply is not too hard, but getting it off can be a bit of problem. On occasion I have to use a hammer, giant screwdriver and lever to remove it, but it only takes a few minutes. If the ground is fairly level, no problem.

The right bars to use is controversial. The company will tell you any weight is ok because you only use what you need. Others say the stiffer the bar (higher wt. rating) the rougher the ride for the trailer. Some say go below the tongue wt. for a really soft ride, but it seems you may sacrifice some anti-sway that way, but that's just my guess. Tongue wt. specs. from Airstream may be light and not include the spare tire, propane and anything extra in the front of the trailer, so maybe 1,000 lb. bars would be appropriate for you. When we bought the trailer, the dealer put 1,200 lb. bars when it should have been lighter—probably it was the only one on the shelf plus they didn't set it up properly. We have not suffered any obvious problems with these bars (even though some Forum members warn of dire consequences), but if I went out and bought a new one, I'd get lighter bars.

Unless you go to somewhere were you trust they know what they are doing, you will probably have to set it up yourself. This can take a while. After it breaks in, the washers tend compress, so more adjustments will be necessary.

The paint will come off and some surface rust will appear pretty quickly. I used to clean them up an repaint them annually, but found it to be of little use—the paint comes off, etc. Now I wait a couple of years. I've never paid attention to which side is up since the label has mostly worn off. It is possible the bars can bend into a semi-permanent position, so turning them each way every other time may make sense to keep them straight. I haven't seen any bend in the bars.

Gene
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:24 PM   #102
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Thanks for the answers

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
I did weigh the hitch head with ball once and promptly forgot the answer, but I think it was around 50 lbs., maybe less. It feels heavier because it is so unwieldy. Never weighed the rest.

No interference with anything like the propane cover or battery box. The propane line under the curbside of the tongue has to be moved below the bottom of the tongue to accommodate one of the bolts for the brackets on the tongue. This is not all that difficult. It can be installed with the bolt below the propane line, but the bracket tends to bend if you do.

When the tow vehicle and trailer are not in a straight line, I haven't had a problem hitching or unhitching, but that only means that we were only 10˚ or so off center. I don't recall ever having to be more off center. The problem with (un)hitching is when the ground is uneven and, for us, at home the front of the truck is higher than the rear and that makes getting the second bar on or off hard sometimes. Getting it on with the lever they supply is not too hard, but getting it off can be a bit of problem. On occasion I have to use a hammer, giant screwdriver and lever to remove it, but it only takes a few minutes. If the ground is fairly level, no problem.

The right bars to use is controversial. The company will tell you any weight is ok because you only use what you need. Others say the stiffer the bar (higher wt. rating) the rougher the ride for the trailer. Some say go below the tongue wt. for a really soft ride, but it seems you may sacrifice some anti-sway that way, but that's just my guess. Tongue wt. specs. from Airstream may be light and not include the spare tire, propane and anything extra in the front of the trailer, so maybe 1,000 lb. bars would be appropriate for you. When we bought the trailer, the dealer put 1,200 lb. bars when it should have been lighter—probably it was the only one on the shelf plus they didn't set it up properly. We have not suffered any obvious problems with these bars (even though some Forum members warn of dire consequences), but if I went out and bought a new one, I'd get lighter bars.

Unless you go to somewhere were you trust they know what they are doing, you will probably have to set it up yourself. This can take a while. After it breaks in, the washers tend compress, so more adjustments will be necessary.

The paint will come off and some surface rust will appear pretty quickly. I used to clean them up an repaint them annually, but found it to be of little use—the paint comes off, etc. Now I wait a couple of years. I've never paid attention to which side is up since the label has mostly worn off. It is possible the bars can bend into a semi-permanent position, so turning them each way every other time may make sense to keep them straight. I haven't seen any bend in the bars.

Gene
Hi Gene,
Thanks for responding.

With our current tiny trailer (and no WD hitch), my wife can easily get the trailer hooked and unhooked, and put into and out of storage, by herself. We'd like for that to continue with the Flying Cloud. That's why I asked about the weight of the pieces. I'm also keeping an eye out for total tongue weight, because we'll be towing with a half-ton SUV and won't have a lot of free payload or hitch weight.

The Equalizer doesn't seem perfect, but so far it doesn't seem any hitch is.
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:42 PM   #103
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S',

Nothing ever seems to be perfect, but some come close. You can back up with the Equalizer without removing the bars—I believe there are hitches that require removing bars to back up.

The hitch head is heavy and that can make getting it in the receiver awkward. But if your wife can't handle it and you can, that can be installed before going to storage. Just clean off the ball and apply some grease before dropping the tongue on it. You can pull it in and out of storage without the bars on and then attach them when everything is level and straight. My wife has no problem with the bars. Often we (un)hitch together with one of us on each side.

The hardest thing for me was figuring out the proper way to adjust it and then making a flat place to do the adjustments. Otherwise, towing has been easy with it.

Gene
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:35 PM   #104
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I've never used any type of WDH and I'm not engineering inclined. On the Equal-i-zer how does the hitch the TV and trailer going over a dip you can encounter come into and out of a gas station at 90 degrees and 45 degrees to the road/entrance dip.

At 90 degrees to the dip is there a lot more pressure applied to hitch receiver on the TV.

At 45 degrees is there a lot of extra twist on the receiver hitch?

How does the 4pt Equal-i-zer handle these road dips.

Thanks

Kelvin
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:28 AM   #105
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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
I've never used any type of WDH and I'm not engineering inclined. On the Equal-i-zer how does the hitch the TV and trailer going over a dip you can encounter come into and out of a gas station at 90 degrees and 45 degrees to the road/entrance dip.

At 90 degrees to the dip is there a lot more pressure applied to hitch receiver on the TV.

At 45 degrees is there a lot of extra twist on the receiver hitch?

How does the 4pt Equal-i-zer handle these road dips.

Thanks

Kelvin
As the bars have little flexibility, mine lifted the back of the truck and the front of the trailer enough to clear these dips. This was my greatest concern about using the hitch, so would approach them very slowly, if I had to drive over them.

doug k
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:58 AM   #106
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Equal-iz-er hitch

I've owned four equal-iz-er hitches over the time from 1074 to current. They have all worked fine.
My current hitch has worked for two trailers and over 50,000 miles. It continues to do it's job but has obviously gotten a little wear in it's parts.

What useage or wear justifies junking it and buying new?

LOU
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:07 PM   #107
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I've owned four equal-iz-er hitches over the time from 1074 to current. They have all worked fine.
My current hitch has worked for two trailers and over 50,000 miles. It continues to do it's job but has obviously gotten a little wear in it's parts.

What useage or wear justifies junking it and buying new?

LOU
Lou.

What did you install the load equalizing hitch on??

They didn't have motor vehicles in 1074.

Andy
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:10 PM   #108
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In praise of the Equal-i-zer

Here is a Pic of our family taken in 1963. I'm the kid on the right.

My Dad had an RV dealership. The 61 Ford was the company TV. His hitch of choice was an Equalizer. Worked great for many years.
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:20 PM   #109
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I've owned four equal-iz-er hitches over the time from 1074 to current. They have all worked fine.
So you got your first one 8 years after the Battle of Hastings. Was your family part of the Norman conquerers, or were you the Anglo-Saxons? Looks like the Equalizer lasts almost 250 years. Of course, people didn't drive as fast during the Middle Ages as we do now.

(sorry, someone has to be the smartass and I know how to do it)

Gene
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:01 PM   #110
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I recently upgraded from an Ez-lift (the kind with the chains on the bars) to an Equal-i-zer on my SOB. What an improvement! It did take me three attempts on very minor adjustments to get the weight distributed to my liking.

I don't see how a dealer can just install it for you and send you on your way. I'd do a minor change, road test, and then return to my shop to adjust some more. That is really the only way to properly set it up.

They can be a bit noisy though on big pavement breaks (like entrances) or tight turns. But nothing alarming, and I haven't noticed any noises underway on the highway.
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:53 AM   #111
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Hitch since 1074

That was a test. Many of you passed it and some did not.
Obviously I meant to say 1974. And my hitches have all been EZ-Lift with sway control not the new Equalizer.

I have enough play from the elongated hole in the ball platform bar receptacles that I've thought for some time I should replace the whole system.

My cousin has the new Equalizer and seems to like it for his 27'FC but I don't know that I see the value for the added cost.

Sorry about the typo guys but when your fingers get crooked like mine just typing is tough enough much less accurate key control.

Interesting discussion going though.

Lou
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:32 AM   #112
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First timer here so please be patient with my question...
So today I am taking my AS on the maiden voyage for the weekend. The dealer installed the EQ hitch. So when I un-hitch, do to do so at the ball or the receiver?
Meaning do you leave all the bars on and try to target the receiver when re-coupling?
OR
unhook at the ball and then do the bars?
I hope this is clear enough
Mike
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