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Old 12-05-2017, 09:14 AM   #1093
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E-trailer's web site has very good videos in the "shank" section. They take each shank and put a tape measure on it so you can see what a 12" shank really measures. It seems there is no standard between manufacturers.
My shank is the standard Equalizer (I think) and is about 9" between the pin and hitch holes. I'd like to go to 12" for the tailgate, but not 18". So far I can't find one with that length and the correct drop. I considered drilling a second hole, but there's a welded gusset that prevents that.
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Old 12-06-2017, 02:18 AM   #1094
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12"s was too short and 18"s was too long.

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Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
E-trailer's web site has very good videos in the "shank" section. They take each shank and put a tape measure on it so you can see what a 12" shank really measures. It seems there is no standard between manufacturers.
My shank is the standard Equalizer (I think) and is about 9" between the pin and hitch holes. I'd like to go to 12" for the tailgate, but not 18". So far I can't find one with that length and the correct drop. I considered drilling a second hole, but there's a welded gusset that prevents that.

Hi, With the standard Equal-I-zer shank, I couldn't fully open my tailgate. After lots of looking, I bought an 18" shank with the same drop. I then had a new hole drilled 2"s back and so it would completely go through my receiver, but not hit my spare tire, I had 1" cut off of the end. I also plugged the original pin hole so it couldn't be accidentally used.
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:51 AM   #1095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, With the standard Equal-I-zer shank, I couldn't fully open my tailgate. After lots of looking, I bought an 18" shank with the same drop. I then had a new hole drilled 2"s back and so it would completely go through my receiver, but not hit my spare tire, I had 1" cut off of the end. I also plugged the original pin hole so it couldn't be accidentally used.
What's wrong with just using 18"? Why are you guys drilling (or thinking about it) new holes to make it shorter. Shorter may be a little stronger, but can't be much??

Bill
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:26 AM   #1096
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^Because shorter is always better.

It comes back to wheelbase. Or specifically, wheelbase to rear overhang ratio. Using a longer stinger worsens this ratio. Such that stability, sway, and weight distribution are all negatively affected. Inches here matter.

I actually took my original stinger, and cut it down as short as possible (by ~3") for fitment on my LX570, in order to maximize stability on a relatively short wheelbase vehicle. Not that it needed it, but it's well known this is a critical dimension for enhanced stability.

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Old 12-06-2017, 10:38 AM   #1097
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Hi....I am moving from a Toyota Tundra to a Ford F-250. My AS is a 27' Flying Cloud FB. The trailer is in storage, so I am unable to get there to measure the hitch height.

I believe the F-250 receiver is higher than the Tundra. I put the Equalizer hitch into the receiver and the top of the ball is about 25" above the ground. My issue is that it looks like the hitch is set on the lowest setting, so how would I lower it? If I need to get something else, can you point me in the right direction? What height should the ball be?
The most straightforward fix is to get a stinger with more drop.

Though I went a different direction with my setup. My tow vehicle has a relatively high hitch, along with larger 33.5" tires that lift the overall rig. This would have necessitated a 3" lower drop. I decided to lift the AS 3" with dexter lift blocks. I really disliked constantly dragging the trailer tail at gas stations and uneven transitions. The lifted AS fits with profile of my tow vehicle better this way as well.

Perfectly level now.

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Old 12-06-2017, 11:46 PM   #1098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billrector View Post
What's wrong with just using 18"? Why are you guys drilling (or thinking about it) new holes to make it shorter. Shorter may be a little stronger, but can't be much??

Bill
Hi, for me, a 16" shank would work great, but I couldn't find with the other measurements that I needed.
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Old 12-07-2017, 04:37 AM   #1099
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pteck,
I agree you have to be careful when towing the trailer across dips. However, raising the trailer raises the center of gravity. Have you noticed any instability in high winds or heavy trucks passing?
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Old 12-07-2017, 09:10 AM   #1100
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I also did the 3 lify on my 23D. No difference in towing. Its an easy mod for the DYIer. And well worth it.
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Old 12-07-2017, 10:10 AM   #1101
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Hi, for me, a 16" shank would work great, but I couldn't find with the other measurements that I needed.
Same here. And it's complicated by different manufacturers measuring differently. One measures hole to hole and another measures overall. That's why e-trailers videos are so valuable. But they don't carry every shank.
I think I have the standard equal-I-zer shank. The distance between the pin hole and mounting holes is about 9".
I think a 12" shank would be perfect (between the holes) but there aren't any. There's a limit on how far you can re-drill an 18" shank, because the welded gusset will get in the way.
With my luck, the new hole would be off center and the pin wouldn't go in.
I just looked at the 18" shank video, and the pin to mount distance is 14". The gusset is 5" behind the pin hole. So if you re-drill 2" behind the original hole, you get 12" spacing and the hitch must have at least 3" from the pin hole to the receiver opening. Interesting.

For those of you who've drilled a longer shank or just used the 18", have you noticed handling problems? Now that the trailer has more leverage on the back of the truck?
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Old 12-07-2017, 12:42 PM   #1102
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I also did the 3 lify on my 23D. No difference in towing. Its an easy mod for the DYIer. And well worth it.
Okay guys, I'm now the owner of 3 shanks and you keep suggesting other alternatives.....I'm going broke here LOL!

So I like the idea of raising the AS, but the attached video does not make it sound so easy.
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Old 12-07-2017, 01:00 PM   #1103
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pteck,
I agree you have to be careful when towing the trailer across dips. However, raising the trailer raises the center of gravity. Have you noticed any instability in high winds or heavy trucks passing?
Hi. I've not noticed any differences honestly. I was likewise concerned about this prior to lifting, as 3" is not an insignificant lift. Pleasantly surprised that it really didn't effect stability whatsoever. When I pass rigs or get passed by them, I can hardly feel any wind pushing against my rig. I'll attribute this to the excellent stability afforded by the Equilizer, as well as my relatively very heavy tow rig (6150lbs curb weight).
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Old 12-07-2017, 01:03 PM   #1104
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Okay guys, I'm now the owner of 3 shanks and you keep suggesting other alternatives.....I'm going broke here LOL!

So I like the idea of raising the AS, but the attached video does not make it sound so easy.

Looks like he made customer "clips" and had to install bolts backwards, had access issues, etc. I'm a pretty handy guy, but I don't need a project where the neighbors can hear my frustration! Is this video representative of what I'd be dealing with?
I lifted my '07 27FB myself, without the need to make any custom tabs. I was ready to (after watching the vid too), but pleasantly surprised I didn't need to.

It's relatively straightforward, but given the size of the trailer/axles/job, number of heavy bolts, and suspect tool clearances, I wouldn't recommend this as a DIY to everyone.
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Old 12-07-2017, 02:30 PM   #1105
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I installed one with the "encouragement" from the owner in his 30' Classic. Didn't have ability to make any tabs to hold fasteners but I did use a 15/16" iirc stub wrench and some pretty creative wrench accessing and finagling.
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Old 12-07-2017, 02:32 PM   #1106
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Raising the coach does impact tow stability. The amount of impact is less noticable, because the Airstream is a good towing trailer by design. Raising the coach with a block lift will improve front and rear clearance for off road and driveway transitions. It does not improve axle clearance, which can be a problem for off road travel. It will degrade roll over stability, but a reduction in speed can help significantly to offset that degradation.

Think first about an upgrade in tire size. It may cost you a bit, but it's an easy upgade to implement and will lift the axle. There are also axle configurations that have more lift in the arm orientation. More complex install and more cost than the blocks, but the axle gets lifted with the front and back of the coach.

Consider your use, investigate the trade offs and make the best decision for your application. In any case, understand that the little things you do to degrade the stability of your rig will add up. Higher COG, more weight in back, longer shank for tail gate clearance and so on. Understand the impacts of your rig tuning. Pat
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