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Old 09-14-2016, 08:58 PM   #995
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Just gone through this myself. The dealer set it up initially, 4 washers. My front axle was 600 lbs lighter than rear. Added 2 washers, moved 100+ lbs, then checked my ball height and it was too high. Got it level with the receiver and added another thin washer for a total of 6 1/2. Fender measurements are spot on, tows great. My axle weights are still a couple hundred off but I think that's it for me.
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Old 09-14-2016, 11:14 PM   #996
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When we upgraded to 16" wheels, we moved the hitch up one notch on the shank (1.25") and added one washer, going to 6 washers total. Someday we'll actually get around to weighing things. Until then, we used their visual measurement process and feel like we're in decent shape.
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Old 09-15-2016, 06:14 AM   #997
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When I changed to 16" wheels I didn't change anything.
Looks good.
Tows good.
Good weight distribution.
Good sway control.



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Old 09-15-2016, 07:16 AM   #998
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Changed to 16" yesterday and raised the bar one hole. Trailer/truck are setting level to eye. Will be doing a load and CAT scale weight later this month.


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Old 09-18-2016, 11:43 AM   #999
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I have the 2 1/2" extended shank and with the head it's one heavy lift even with a Hitchgrip tool. I found this 200lb rated dolly at Harbor Freight (similar to Northern Tools, another fine purveyor of Chinese tools). Now I can wheel it out to the truck and only have to lift it a foot or so into the receiver. It's lightweight and takes up little space and being a plastic base it can be left outside at the campground. One set of wheels is stationary the other tool turn. The cost was $13.

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Old 09-18-2016, 07:58 PM   #1000
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Does anyone use a pneumatic impact wrench when removing or tightening the shank bolts to get at the washers. I need to add a couple of washers an am having nightmares wondering how I'm going to manage those high torque numbers.
I do have a half inch drive breaker bar. I know people torque the bolts using a piece of pipe as an extender, but the pneumatic wrench would be so much easier.
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Old 09-18-2016, 08:25 PM   #1001
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I have used air.
I just can't get it tight enough by hand.
When I do it by hand I am tightening the hitch at every campground.
Give it a little air and it stays put.


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Old 09-18-2016, 09:53 PM   #1002
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So far a giant wrench on the bolt head to hold it in place and a half-inch breaker bar with plenty of muscle on it for the nut has done the trick. Doesn't seem to come loose...so far.
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Old 09-18-2016, 10:00 PM   #1003
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I have an old Snap On 250lb torque wrench. I get the bolts to 250lbs then use a breaker bar with a floor jack handle over the breaker bar to get the next 80lbs. I have to borrow it from my brother-in-law. So far so good. I use another socketed breaker bar on the bolt head and as I tighten the nut it rotates to the ground where it gets wedged. If I were to replace my Equalizer I would prefer a hitch that didn't require such high torque values for the mounting hardware.

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Old 09-19-2016, 05:34 AM   #1004
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My breaker bar will not fit over the handle on my old Craftsman "beam style" torque wrench.
I am only strong enough to get about 60 ft. lbs., which is plenty for most things, but when you got 6,000# and 8,000# snatching against each other on rough roads...


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Old 09-20-2016, 10:57 PM   #1005
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TQ required divided by body weight = bar length required.
I weigh 200lbs, so 320lbs torque/200 = 1.6 x 12" = 19.2 inches.
So for a 200 lb person leaning all his body weight at 19.2 inches on the bar on the horizontal (not jumping on it, just leaning) until it stops moving will generate 320 ft lbs of torque.
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:00 AM   #1006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abone View Post
TQ required divided by body weight = bar length required.
I weigh 200lbs, so 320lbs torque/200 = 1.6 x 12" = 19.2 inches.
So for a 200 lb person leaning all his body weight at 19.2 inches on the bar on the horizontal (not jumping on it, just leaning) until it stops moving will generate 320 ft lbs of torque.
Do you have to insert the hitch upside down in order to tighten the bolt using this method? Or alternatively, inserting the bolts from right to left so you can apply clockwise pressure to the nut. But then loosening later becomes a problem, no?
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:58 AM   #1007
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I don't like guessing on something as important as the hitch, so I bought a 3/4" drive 600 ft lb torque wrench on Amazon. Of course, the torque wrench weighs almost as much as the hitch! I get a good workout. I found the sockets at Lowes. The torque wrench is long enough that you don't have to use a cheater handle. I had a Craftsman breaker bar break using a cheater bar and I don't want that to happen again. People and things can get hurt when that happens.
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Old 09-21-2016, 11:12 PM   #1008
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Quote:
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Do you have to insert the hitch upside down in order to tighten the bolt using this method? Or alternatively, inserting the bolts from right to left so you can apply clockwise pressure to the nut. But then loosening later becomes a problem, no?

I didn't, but I did tighten using the nut end. I had my son hold the bolt end with a box wrench. It works well.
And it isn't a guess, it's a mathematical calculation used by master mechanics.
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