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Old 09-10-2016, 02:37 PM   #981
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My dealer hooked it up for me so I have no idea. It just works. I guess I should understand its operation better. One day maybe.
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Old 09-10-2016, 04:15 PM   #982
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Originally Posted by abone View Post
That is a good question, the AS dealer slapped it on so I'm not sure what they did, but pretty sure no accounting for air suspension took place in the set-up.
I have called Equal-i-zer and Joey told me what to do with the wheel well measurements, but that's all. Other than engaging tire jack mode when hooking up and unhooking, I'm not sure what else I can do to account for it.

I've towed a few trailers in my time, and never has one towed as nice as this....but that light front axle is driving me crazy!

Any suggestions?
Quote:
In addition, my wheel well measurements are, air susp engaged:
Front uncoupled - 36"
Front coupled and WD applied - 37 3/4"
Rear uncoupled 38 1/8"
Rear coupled and WD applied - 38"
What are you measurements with the trailer on the ball, without WD applied and in Jack mode?


I'm using a different WD system than yours but with regard to air suspension they are all pretty much the same. IMO, you aren't recovering nearly enough front gap with your current setup.

You may want to find some level ground and go through the steps to verify how things work out compared to the dealer setup.

Also, you may need more bar. I'm surprised you're only using 1000 pound bars (and that's what was recommended).....even with under 1K tongue weight I was and still am using 1400lb bars on my Eaz-lift system (CanAM setup) to transfer weight forward. It's a little more difficult to move weight forward on trucks and beefier bars help.


With regard to Air suspension, here is the steps RAM suggest for the 1500.

**Assuming you have your shank height set properly with ride height set to NORMAL.
1. Set to NORMAL air setting height and leave engine ON.
2. Postion truck ready to connect trailer on ball.
3. Activate JACK Mode
4. Measure Front Wheel gap
5. Attach trailer without WD engaged.
6. Measure Front Wheel gap
7. **Install WD and adjust to recover front wheel gap. Use a car JACK to engage WD bars onto brackets rather than using the trailer tongue jack to lift truck/trailer. Even in Jack mode the air suspension may dump air if you lift truck.
**RAM only recommends recovering 1/3 of the gap but other experts believe 1/2 to almost complete recovery is a better goal.
8. Cancel JACK mode and you should be ready to go.

Good luck.
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Old 09-10-2016, 04:21 PM   #983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FCStreamer View Post
My dealer hooked it up for me so I have no idea. It just works. I guess I should understand its operation better. One day maybe.

The dealer hooked mine up, too.
It didn't have enough weight distribution or sway control.
Then I had Jackson Center do it again.
It still didn't have enough weight distribution, but sway control was better.
After I adjusted everything by trial and error it finally had good weight distribution and good sway control.
All this took over 2 years.


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Old 09-11-2016, 10:36 AM   #984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cory_can View Post


Also, you may need more bar. I'm surprised you're only using 1000 pound bars (and that's what was recommended).....even with under 1K tongue weight I was and still am using 1400lb bars on my Eaz-lift system (CanAM setup) to transfer weight forward. It's a little more difficult to move weight forward on trucks and beefier bars help.


With regard to Air suspension, here is the steps RAM suggest for the 1500.

**Assuming you have your shank height set properly with ride height set to NORMAL.
1. Set to NORMAL air setting height and leave engine ON.
2. Postion truck ready to connect trailer on ball.
3. Activate JACK Mode
4. Measure Front Wheel gap
5. Attach trailer without WD engaged.
6. Measure Front Wheel gap
7. **Install WD and adjust to recover front wheel gap. Use a car JACK to engage WD bars onto brackets rather than using the trailer tongue jack to lift truck/trailer. Even in Jack mode the air suspension may dump air if you lift truck.
**RAM only recommends recovering 1/3 of the gap but other experts believe 1/2 to almost complete recovery is a better goal.
8. Cancel JACK mode and you should be ready to go.

Good luck.
Thanks for this Cory. I spoke to CanAm a few times, they recommended a 1000 lbs bar, as did the dealer, and Equal-i-zer's hitch selection guide. I suppose I could have moved one size up, 1200 lbs, but then the ride would stiffen up.

I've followed Ram's guide as per above, with the exception of the car jack method. I'll take another run at it today. I will confirm the ball height was set right at the dealership, then add another washer. I don't want to raise the bar bracket anymore as they aren't sitting level now.
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Old 09-11-2016, 12:35 PM   #985
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Originally Posted by abone View Post
Thanks for this Cory. I spoke to CanAm a few times, they recommended a 1000 lbs bar, as did the dealer, and Equal-i-zer's hitch selection guide. I suppose I could have moved one size up, 1200 lbs, but then the ride would stiffen up.

I've followed Ram's guide as per above, with the exception of the car jack method. I'll take another run at it today. I will confirm the ball height was set right at the dealership, then add another washer. I don't want to raise the bar bracket anymore as they aren't sitting level now.


With more bar it will be stiffer but the front wheels should be locked down better. The entire truck should also feel more stable. How does the weight at the front/steer wheels "feel" now, regardless of measurements? I would be curious to know your front/rear wheel measurements without trailer, with trailer and no WD applied (jack mode) and with WD applied.
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Old 09-11-2016, 12:49 PM   #986
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Originally Posted by cory_can View Post
With more bar it will be stiffer but the front wheels should be locked down better. The entire truck should also feel more stable. How does the weight at the front/steer wheels "feel" now, regardless of measurements? I would be curious to know your front/rear wheel measurements without trailer, with trailer and no WD applied (jack mode) and with WD applied.
I don't have measurements with trailer/no WD applied. Going to do that in a hour or so. This is what I have so far, air susp engaged:

Front uncoupled - 36"
Front coupled and WD applied - 37 3/4"
Rear uncoupled 38 1/8"
Rear coupled and WD applied - 38"

I will check the ball height too, maybe its a little low. Can't tell in my driveway as it's a bit of a slope.

Seems to be two strong opinions on the forum regarding too much bar, with Airstreams. There have been examples of heavier bars creating problems with rivet popping.

That's the thing, if I never took the rig across the scales I'd confidently say its the nicest towing combination I have ever experienced.

How do you like the move up to a 2500 CTD Laramie Ltd? I can see that in my future. Silver of course!
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Old 09-11-2016, 01:30 PM   #987
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^ I LOVE my 2500! Amazing truck and I'll never go back. If you're interested I recently wrote a few blurbs about my experience here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f520...ml#post1846770

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f520...ml#post1846887
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Old 09-11-2016, 07:58 PM   #988
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^ I LOVE my 2500! Amazing truck and I'll never go back. If you're interested I recently wrote a few blurbs about my experience here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f520...ml#post1846770

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f520...ml#post1846887
I knew you'd say that about the 2500, and I agree. Nothing can replace mass for towing. It's simply physics. I've committed to the wife we will try the 1500 for a few trips before I buy a 2500...heh heh heh.

So I made some adjustments today. I added one more spacer, a thinner spacer than stock, so I am at 6 1/2, plus I measured the ball height as per installed by the dealer and saw it was about 4 cm high so adjusted it down to match the hitch. Took all the measurements (and sorry about metric but my son wrote it all down in cm), all measurements in tire jack mode:

Rear wheel well:

A - TV uncoupled - 102 cm
B - TV coupled no WD - 93.5 cm
C - TV coupled c/w WD - 96 cm

Front wheel well:

A - TV uncoupled - 93 cm
B - TV coupled no WD - 94 cm
C - TV coupled c/w WD - 92 cm

I called Equal-i-zer on Friday and was told for air suspension the front wheel C measure should be slightly under the A measurement, so I am there.
Unfortunately the scales were closed today so couldn't confirm I moved more weight forward. I am heading out on a 1200 km trip tomorrow so will weigh en route somewhere.
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Old 09-11-2016, 09:41 PM   #989
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Equal-i-zer Hitch Thread.

^ those numbers look much better than what you posted earlier....I'm suspecting the shank/ball height change was a big factor.
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Old 09-11-2016, 10:03 PM   #990
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^ those numbers look much better than what you posted earlier....I'm suspecting the shank/ball height change was a big factor.
I agree, hopefully the scale will confirm.

Btw, when you priced out the 2500, did you look at the 3500 as well? In BC the 3500 is a few hundred cheaper because it qualifies as a commercial vehicle so doesn't attract the luxury tax.
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Old 09-11-2016, 11:11 PM   #991
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Equal-i-zer Hitch Thread.

^ I didn't because I wanted the coil rear suspension w/ air of the 2500 rather than leaf springs in the 3500. The 3500 w/ air is still a leaf spring rear end and I didn't need anywhere near that kind of payload/capacity and associated stiff ride when not hauling. Also, a 3500 may be too jarring for an Airstream.

If I was ever considering the 3Klb pin weight of a huge 15Klbs+ fifth wheel, the 3500 is the way to go..::but I would never do that. I've done the due diligence and I much prefer a higher end trailer (Airstream) rather than a cheap looking house
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Old 09-11-2016, 11:35 PM   #992
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^ I didn't because I wanted the coil rear suspension w/ air of the 2500 rather than leaf springs in the 3500. The 3500 w/ air is still a leaf spring rear end and I didn't need anywhere near that kind of payload/capacity and associated stiff ride when not hauling. Also, a 3500 may be too jarring for an Airstream.

If I was ever considering the 3Klb pin weight of a huge 15Klbs+ fifth wheel, the 3500 is the way to go..::but I would never do that. I've done the due diligence and I much prefer a higher end trailer (Airstream) rather than a cheap looking house
Ah right, forgot about the leaf springs. Totally agree with you on that, and your assessment of the big fivers. They look like our parents basements from the 60's.
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Old 09-14-2016, 02:47 PM   #993
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Another hitch adjustment question.
I loaded up the bed of the truck with 2 eu2000 generators, an 18 gallon eztote 2, 2 lawn chairs and a bag of dog food. Inside were me, my wife (350 lbs) and 2 80 pound dogs. I measured the front fender height - 75 inches unloaded, 85 inches with trailer connected but no bars, 80 inches with the bars so it corrected half way which is good.
Then I took the setup to the CAT scales and found my front axle weight was 3080, drive axle was 4320, and trailer axles 6020.
The sticker inside the truck door suggests max 3525 on steer axle, and 3800 on drive axle..
So even though I'm correcting half way, it looks like I'm 500 lbs too heavy on the rear drive axle and possibly 500 lbs light on the steer axle.
I'm wondering if this is tolerable since the setup is towing great - no sway and the steering feels solid. If not, I'm not sure what to do - add washers or raise the L brackets or both? I don't always load the truck bed with so much stuff and I'm afraid if I add washers I'll be overcorrected when I make my usual trip without the generators and eztote.
Any opinions will be greatly appreciated. I've heard in this thread that moving weight from rear to front on a half ton truck isn't easy. Oh, I'm driving a 2015 F150 with tow package.
Thanks in advance.

Richard
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Old 09-14-2016, 06:23 PM   #994
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Add two more washers. I think being overweight by 500 lbs on the rear axle is excessive. Adding washers will shift some weight off the truck onto the trailer.
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