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Old 07-23-2016, 12:38 AM   #939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAWBC View Post
I have the 1000 lb. bars on my 27 FB for 3 years using the same truck and just lately am experiencing a shift in the L brackets on the frame approx.. 1/2" shift forward.
I went to a RV shop the other day and had them realigned and tighten. That night I left the truck hitched while staying one night with the bars hooked up . Lifted the truck approx. 6" to level . This morning I see the damn brackets had shifted again.
Could it be leaving the rig hitched and elevated made the brackets to shift ?
Should I have freed the bars before leveling the trailer ?
I have lifted the rig in the past on one night stay overs without any problems , and carry the same loads .
Hi, go back to page one and post thirteen. My extra bolt and copper pipe modification has never slipped.
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Old 07-23-2016, 12:43 AM   #940
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Originally Posted by FCStreamer View Post
I did the jackets on mine and it did nothing for the noise I was getting. See the attached video for the noise WITH the brackets. I was told I had to grease the pivot points. Will test that next time.

https://youtu.be/jQMiwgWOFjY
Hi, remove the spring bar sockets, clean everything, and re-grease. Trying to get grease in there without taking the hitch apart is almost useless.
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Old 07-23-2016, 12:47 AM   #941
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I was experiencing the same problem. I added the sway bracket jackets, the copper tube and extra bolt, but what ultimately solved it for me was drilling a hole in each L-pin and press-fitting a roll pin into it. The roll pin prevents the L-pin from binding on the sway bar. The brackets have not moved at all since I added the roll pins 3 years ago. You will find this solution somewhere earlier in this thread.


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Old 07-23-2016, 12:56 AM   #942
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steverino View Post
I was experiencing the same problem. I added the sway bracket jackets, the copper tube and extra bolt, but what ultimately solved it for me was drilling a hole in each L-pin and press-fitting a roll pin into it. The roll pin prevents the L-pin from binding on the sway bar. The brackets have not moved at all since I added the roll pins 3 years ago. You will find this solution somewhere earlier in this thread.


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Hi, on page three, post twenty nine, you will see my roll pin modification in the "L" pins. I also use the Bracket Jackets.

Pictures are dated 4-2-2011
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Old 07-23-2016, 08:10 AM   #943
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LAWBC,

Your 1000lbs bars may be too light for your tongue weight, so you have to adjust the L brackets up to level your rig. Your bars should be parallel with the frame, if they are at an angle they put a side load on the brackets causing them to move.

I also have an FB and have to use 1200 bars to compensate for tongue weight.

If you want more information, PM me and I will share with what I did with my rig.

Henry
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Old 07-23-2016, 09:06 AM   #944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheriff1 View Post
Try a Kirkland water bottle from I think it's the 48 pack. Properly cut there is a ridge that will hold it on the ball when not towing. I stick it in with the propane tanks for travel.

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Thanks for the idea
I think Kirkland comes from Costco and that (I think) requires a membership. We have other bottled water brands, I'll try some of those.

Good idea because the paper cups don't fit well and can blow off when I'm not pulling the AS. I usually take the hitch off except between home and the storage lot. In the garage I need some kind of cover for the ball, this might be a better solution.
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Old 07-23-2016, 09:38 AM   #945
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Thanks for the idea
I think Kirkland comes from Costco and that (I think) requires a membership. We have other bottled water brands, I'll try some of those.

Good idea because the paper cups don't fit well and can blow off when I'm not pulling the AS. I usually take the hitch off except between home and the storage lot. In the garage I need some kind of cover for the ball, this might be a better solution.
Wal-Mart Great Value 16.9 oz (48 pack) fits pretty good. If you cut it off just under the label and use the bottom part, it's snug enough for the narrow portion of the bottle to squeeze over the ball. It's loose but I don't think the wind can take it off. Great in the garage, for sure
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Old 07-23-2016, 10:01 AM   #946
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I bought a box of 100 nitrile gloves from Amazon for $10 and I just use of one those stretched over the ball. I can get a couple of uses at least out of one glove. I also use the gloves while dumping the tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 07-23-2016, 11:49 PM   #947
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I think I got it at campingworld a rubber ball cover. Works quite well. I also got a rubberized sleeve to fit over my electrical connection. Keeps the rain out of the TV plug.
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Old 07-25-2016, 06:53 PM   #948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAWBC View Post
I have the 1000 lb. bars on my 27 FB for 3 years using the same truck and just lately am experiencing a shift in the L brackets on the frame approx.. 1/2" shift forward.
I went to a RV shop the other day and had them realigned and tighten. That night I left the truck hitched while staying one night with the bars hooked up . Lifted the truck approx. 6" to level . This morning I see the damn brackets had shifted again.
Could it be leaving the rig hitched and elevated made the brackets to shift ?
Should I have freed the bars before leveling the trailer ?
I have lifted the rig in the past on one night stay overs without any problems , and carry the same loads .

😱I can't imagine staying hitched and raising 6" that would be a hell of a lot of stress as the bars are pushing down on the brackets.😱


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Old 07-25-2016, 07:58 PM   #949
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We have a flying cloud 25a with an equalizer hitch. My hitch bars were terribly difficult to move off the j brackets, couldn't budge 'em, had to kick 'em to move em in, and yank like crazy to pull em out, and I'm 6'1" and 192 pounds, not young, but ain't worn out yet either......and the hitch was creaking and banging and just raising a ruckus on our last trip. I had the socket bolts torqued to 60 lbs.

I say we have around 2,500 miles on the hitch setup. I think the paint rubbing off, the grease, road grime, you name it, all gunked up in there, was causing issues.

So, I removed the sockets from the hitch head, cleaned everything up, put a little grease on the surfaces, pounded the sockets back in with a rubber mallet, and torqued the bolts to 45 lbs.

Then we towed 30 miles or so to a local state park, and she was quiet as a mouse.......not a squeak, bang, clunk, or creak.....amazing.

While at the state park, I ran the torque on the socket bolts up to 50 lbs, and the bars were able to be moved up on the j brackets with ease, using the lift tool. Yep, the bars are now able to move back and forth with relative ease, and with the bracket jackets on there, the whole setup was quiet.

On a side note, a good ole boy pulled in while we were leaving with a 6,000 lb. dry weight camper, being towed by a new chevy colorado, hitched up right to ball, no sway control, weight distribution, or any other such nonsense, straight towing that puppy
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:42 PM   #950
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Bay Area Airstream installed ours. Perfectly quiet and very easy to hitch/unhitch. No regrets!
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Old 07-25-2016, 09:47 PM   #951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, go back to page one and post thirteen. My extra bolt and copper pipe modification has never slipped.

I second that. After seeing the copper pipe mod. I did use a small piece of PVC pipe instead of copper but the concert works for me.


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Old 07-25-2016, 11:08 PM   #952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, go back to page one and post thirteen. My extra bolt and copper pipe modification has never slipped.
The brackets on my 25 slipped no matter what I did until I did Bob's copper pipe mod. Solid as a rock afterwards. Be sure not to overtighten the bolts and to tighten them evenly. If the bracket bows out due to one or both bolts being overtightened it reduces the contact are with the frame and actually increases the probability of slippage.

Al
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