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Old 08-31-2015, 08:17 AM   #771
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PS - nose high or nose low configurations are supposed to increase the load on the associated trailer axles, a bad thing? A indication of higher loading is supposed to be higher heat on the tires of one set of axles.

Yes, when the weight on the two axels is different... a bad thing. And yes, increased heat would be a good indicator of higher loading... there's just no way to measure the temp differential accurately and even if there was, what would be acceptable and normal. Temp diff means tire pressure diff which could lead to a nasty chain of events which is my concern.
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Old 09-05-2015, 04:40 PM   #772
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HitchGrip

It kinda works. If you have a shank longer than mine it won't work. Despite no being able to grap ith handle at the end only between the shank an ball, it's still easier to pick up the hitch head and insert it into the receiver.

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Old 09-05-2015, 04:43 PM   #773
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On the truck.
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Old 09-05-2015, 11:20 PM   #774
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Today I disassembled and cleaned my Equal-i-zer again. It was making a lot of noise earlier this week. I've used this hitch for about 7,000 miles. Seems like I need to clean and re-grease every 500 to 1,000 miles to keep the noise down. I also added another washer. Over time the hitch seems to compress upon itself. Washers bend a little, the pin held by the washers seems to flatten against the drop bar a little. The spring bars sockets have more slop...
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Old 09-06-2015, 05:36 AM   #775
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Can the spring bar sockets be tightened?
Or is the slop/looseness due to use and wear?
Seems like I greased mine back in the spring if the year and I haven't heard a peep out of it in several months.
I was pretty OCD with the red wheel bearing grease.


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Old 09-06-2015, 07:31 AM   #776
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My spring bar sockets have a loose fit, there seems to be almost an inch of play at the end of the bar. I don't think they've expanded open as they still appear square. However I could see some wear on the retaining pins and one of them was slightly bent so I replaced them with new ones.

Kelvin
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Old 09-06-2015, 08:47 AM   #777
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They are supposed to be torqued. This is where most all of the sway resistance takes place. I believe the spec is 65lbft. When I used eq, I torqued to 75 lbft.
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Old 09-06-2015, 08:49 AM   #778
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Are you talking about the bars themselves, or the head bar pivots? Can't remember the name right now......
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Old 09-06-2015, 09:49 AM   #779
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They are supposed to be torqued. This is where most all of the sway resistance takes place. I believe the spec is 65lbft. When I used eq, I torqued to 75 lbft.
The labels on mine say "approx. 45 ft lbs."

They need to be checked periodically because they will loosen. I check mine after the return trip, but I don't stay on the road, just out and back. I'd say check them every 2,000 miles or so.
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Old 09-06-2015, 09:54 AM   #780
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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
It kinda works. If you have a shank longer than mine it won't work. Despite no being able to grap ith handle at the end only between the shank an ball, it's still easier to pick up the hitch head and insert it into the receiver.

Kelvin
I like they way they use AS trailers in their ad.

So what do you think of it?

I think I would have a hard time lifting it with one hand. It would throw me off balance it seems. Wearing cheap work gloves, I put one hand under the ball head and the other under the shank. It seems to be working and I don't have to carry or wipe down another piece of equipment.
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Old 09-06-2015, 11:00 AM   #781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
It kinda works. If you have a shank longer than mine it won't work. Despite no being able to grap ith handle at the end only between the shank an ball, it's still easier to pick up the hitch head and insert it into the receiver.

Kelvin
Thanks for this. Ordered one last night. Exactly what I need. I'm tired of bending over, grabbing that head with the new heavier shank, and awkwardly carrying it to the truck, getting my hands and pants greasy in the process.

I e-mailed them to ask if they had a taller version, but I think I ended up with my hitch head one hole higher. If not I'm going to get with a friend and machine up something to go between the claw plates and the handle to make it an inch or so higher.

Al
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Old 09-06-2015, 11:03 AM   #782
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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
My spring bar sockets have a loose fit, there seems to be almost an inch of play at the end of the bar. I don't think they've expanded open as they still appear square. However I could see some wear on the retaining pins and one of them was slightly bent so I replaced them with new ones.

Kelvin
Over several tows I could feel some very slight pressure from passing semis starting to appear. I disassembled and cleaned my hitch head and reassembled it, torquing to specs in the instructions and it got rock solid again.

Al
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Old 09-06-2015, 11:45 AM   #783
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As I've used the hitch over time I noticed that I didn't have to jack the truck/trailer up as high to slide the bars onto the L brackets. Heading home from camping it looked as if the truck was squatting in the rear more than I thought it should. During the cleaning and disassembly I noticed that the pin that's held extended by the washers had flattened some in the front, probably by a thickness of a washer. There's a lot of compression force on that small spot. Since that pin doesn't lay exactly flat against the hitch bar it has flattened itself over time and made a small divot in the hitch bar.

I also was noticing that the weight distribution bars move at least an inch or two up and down when hanging loose due to slack within the sockets. Don't recall if that's the way its always been. After adding another washer I'll see how it looks and measures when I hitch up next time.
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Old 09-06-2015, 11:50 AM   #784
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I think you have the right answer. Btw, all the hitches I have had display the same flattening of the "rivet" pin and require more washers over time.
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