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Old 08-22-2015, 02:52 PM   #757
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I think the answer is for the load capacity and the coil springs. That and everything is better when it's bigger!!

We just bought a 2015 Ram 2500 and also had to get the 2 1/2" shank with the 6" drop. We have a FC 23FB and would of liked to have more drop. The nice guy at Equal-i-zer said the 6" drop would work and my only other option was to get the 2" shank with more drop and use the sleeve that came this the Ram. I put my 2" shank and sleeve in the Ram's receiver and the slope was terrible. I put the head on the new shank today and I'm only 1/2" to high. Looks like it will work but now I have to get to a shop that can torque the bolt to the 320 ft lbs and tow the AS to a flat level parking lot to take measurements.
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Old 08-29-2015, 09:52 PM   #758
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Alright, so for some reason my trailer and truck rig up doesn't seem to be as level as it once was. The trailer seems to be tipping forward more. I'm not at all familiar with my E2's inner workings... is there something that I can do to adjust it?
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Old 08-30-2015, 06:02 AM   #759
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I'm not at all familiar with the E2, but with the regular Equal-I-zer you can add a washer (tilt the hitch head back a little more) and/or raise the L-brackets to create more lift.
A little nose down won't hurt a thing as far as safety and performance, but may not look good to you.
A little nose up is dangerous and will cause sway- too little tongue weight is bad-
A trailer can teach us about how our attitudes should be- nose up is bad-
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Old 08-30-2015, 07:07 AM   #760
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I have the opposite issue with my new Ram 2500. I have the 2 1/2"shank with the max drop that Equal-i-zer said would work. When I hitched up the AS and took measurement as outlined in the installation manual the front fender on the Ram didn't move with/without the WD bars installed. The rear fender went down 3/4" with/without the WD bars installed. The AS is 3" higher at the front then when it is unhitched and level font to back. I can't drop the ball any lower. Will this be an problem. Have others had the same issue with 3/4 ton trucks with the 2 1/2" receivers.
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Old 08-30-2015, 07:25 AM   #761
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I just bought a Ram 2500. I had to buy the 2 1/2" 12"/6" drop shank. The head is mounted on the lowest holes. The ball sits at a tad higher than the top of tongue. I use 5 washers on the head. The trailer looks pretty level and the front axle vender to ground is returned to the unladen distance which is 41". Did a short tow yesterday and it seems to tow well.

I may have to add a washer after I have my shell installed and and load up our camping gear.

I have the 1000lb bars.

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Old 08-30-2015, 07:51 AM   #762
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Higher at the front is bad news. You need more drop in the hitch shank. You may have to have one custom built at a welding shop.
Dead level is where you want to be.
A little nose down is second best but still safe.
Nose up is bad. It causes sway.
All that having been said, can you measure your tongue weight? If you still have 1,000# on the tongue you may be OK.
The reason nose up on a half ton is bad is because it does not have enough tongue weight- losing rear traction and braking-
None of this may matter on a 3/4 ton-
You could still have traction and braking even nose up if the tongue weight is there-
And that being said- seems like nose high would cause the back of the trailer to bottom out in a dip or driveway-
Dead level or slightly nose down is better-


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Old 08-30-2015, 08:17 AM   #763
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I did tow a short distance and didn't notice any sway. The only thing I noticed was when I went on some roads with lots of bumps we could feel the AS bounce more than we thought we would with a 3/4 truck. With a tongue weight of just under 600 lbs I didn't expect to have almost as must bounce as when we towed with our Jeep GC.
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Old 08-30-2015, 08:57 AM   #764
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My only real concern about my nose up or down (angle of attack?) is uneven wear on the tires or more weight on the forward axle suspension. Maybe neither are a problem and if that's the case, I'll just go on my merry way. It seems like raising the bolt in drop shank (?) thing may be too much nose high. It looks to me more like the part the ball attaches to has bent downward over time. 9 months and maybe 5000 miles. I don't see it being possible to hand tighten, or loosen for that matter, what the dealership put on there with an air wrench.
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Old 08-30-2015, 10:27 AM   #765
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Nothing the folks at Equal-i-zer said to me ever worked in reality.
Experiment. Find out first-hand what works or doesn't work.
Needless to say, mine isn't adjusted per Equal-i-zer's instructions. By their example I could not get enough weight transfer or sway control.
One more washer and one notch higher on the L-brackets did it.
Having said sll that, I'm sure you can throw it all out the window if you have. a 3/4 ton truck.
Hook it up. Tow it down the highway. See what does. Come home and adjust.


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Old 08-30-2015, 10:50 AM   #766
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The latest videos from Equalizer only focus on two items; restore the height of the steering axle and keeping the trailer level.

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Old 08-30-2015, 11:27 AM   #767
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I have to go beyond their generic example to accomplish those two goals-
When I speak with the on the phone or via email they are disbelieving.
Therefore, I experimented until I found what really works in the real world with my particular rig- one more washer in the hitch head and one hole higher on the L-brackets-
My settings may not work for others with a shorter or lighter (or heavier) trailer or a 3/4 or 1 ton truck-


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Old 08-30-2015, 12:04 PM   #768
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One of the problems with adding more washers and raising the L brackets is you have to raise the tongue higher with the truck attached. I get worried I'm putting too much strain on my 3500 Barker tongue jack. I noticed putting in just another washer I had to raise the trailer/truck higher. I also have to clear the Bracket Jacket thickness. Using the supplied tool to lift the bars on helps but can you use that tool to remove the bars?

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Old 08-30-2015, 04:26 PM   #769
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Lifting my Tundra and Classic 30 high enough isn't a problem, but you would have to lift your 2500 even higher because it is already higher-


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Old 08-30-2015, 09:48 PM   #770
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So, know nothing about 3/4ton trucks, but if the truck is too high, consider getting lower profile tires to drop it a bit. Not inexpensive, but the factory tires likely have some resale value to offset the cost and unless the rims are really narrow, they should accept a change in profile. Being lower has lots of advantages, unless you need to travel off road or through deep snow. The alternative of a custom shank as mentioned prior or a taller trailer tire configuration are also both ways to address the problem. The 23 has 14s? and 15s are supposed to fit? Adds about an inch to the trailer clearance per the AF thread on that mod. Also wonder if going to the lighter weight bars might help. Sounds counter intuitive, but it's supposed to help when the TV capacity goes up. Not an approach presented by the mfg, so proceed carefully after you have done some research. Hope you find a solution that works.

PS - nose high or nose low configurations are supposed to increase the load on the associated trailer axles, a bad thing? A indication of higher loading is supposed to be higher heat on the tires of one set of axles.
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