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Old 07-26-2015, 10:01 AM   #701
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Originally Posted by kscherzi View Post
I don't think you are supposed to grease the bars or L brackets at all. Mine are bone dry. I do grease the moving parts on the hitch head. The only time I might get a small mark of grease on my hands is when removing the pins that lock the bars to the hitch head.
Yes, they are supposed to be dry to add friction to prevent sway. I tried them dry and the noise was terrible. I greased the L bracket and the spring arm where it slides on the L bracket; much better. On mine I don't notice any difference in sway control. Wind, lots of trucks, turns, etc. at about the same as before. Getting grease on me was a problem, also having to grease up before each trip. I think the bracket jackets should eliminate that problem.
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Old 07-26-2015, 10:07 AM   #702
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I have never greased the bars. I thought the instructions said not to. I did get the"jackets" and they quieted the hitch down a lot. When I changed trucks I took the head apart, cleaned and greased the bar sockets. I had started getting a little push from passing semis (nothing significant, just never had any before). It turns out one of the bar sockets was pretty loose. When I torqued them to specs everything settled down again.

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Old 07-26-2015, 10:14 AM   #703
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I'm out camping this weekend. When raising the trailer to remove the bars the head was popping like crazy. What is the cause of that noise?

Adding Bracket Jackets also requires you to raise the trailer a little more for the bars to clear the thickness of the jacket.

I've noticed in some instances one bar will clear but the other is still tight in the L bracket even on what seems to be level ground.

The more I own the. Equalizer the more I think it's a clunky design. Glad it came with the purchase of my trailer and didn't have to pay extra for it.

Kelvin
On level ground, a rare event, both of mine will release. Usually I have to raise the TV then kick the bar to see if it's loose, release it, then kick the other side. In camp, rarely do both line up to be released at the same time.

I don't think I've had the head pop when raising the TV. I've had it squeal on turns when it's dry. Only the spring arms pop on mine when they slide against or from the retainer. Have you checked the torque on the socket bolts?

Other than the noise I have no complaints about the Equalizer. It's solidly built and pretty easy to hitch/unhitch once you get the hang of it. Their support team responds very quickly to inquiries.
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Old 07-26-2015, 10:18 AM   #704
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Hi, I have been using the Bracket Jackets for years now and they work great. I actually believe that the Bracket Jackets give more friction than metal to metal. [and quieter too] I replaced all of my hitch bolts to grade eight and torque my spring bar sockets to 65 lbs. I never wipe grease on the hitch head; I always take it apart, clean it, grease it, and torque it.
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Old 07-26-2015, 11:15 PM   #705
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I currently do have an Equalizer but at the International Rally the Blue Ox guy gave a very thought provoking seminar. I could not help but think that perhaps the Blue Ox might be a better setup. I am not an expert in these matters so I am easily persuaded by good salesmen.
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Old 07-26-2015, 11:17 PM   #706
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I currently do have an Equalizer but at the International Rally the Blue Ox guy gave a very thought provoking seminar. I could not help but think that perhaps the Blue Ox might be a better setup. I am not an expert in these matters so I am easily persuaded by good salesmen.
It's your money. Sure that system is fine too.
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Old 07-27-2015, 08:35 AM   #707
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Can someone with a 250/2500 (preferably a 4WD F-250) tell me which shank they are using? 90-02-4400?

Or measure the height of the inside top of the receiver tube from the ground?

Thanks.
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Old 07-27-2015, 12:20 PM   #708
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I currently have a 90-02-4700. 2-1/2' shank, 12 long x 3 max drop or 7 max rise : Equal-i-zer Hitch Store

This is the Class V version of the shank I started with.

I will go measure.

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Old 07-27-2015, 12:37 PM   #709
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Originally Posted by casarodante View Post
I currently have a 90-02-4700. 2-1/2' shank, 12 long x 3 max drop or 7 max rise : Equal-i-zer Hitch Store

This is the Class V version of the shank I started with.

I will go measure.

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Is your ball too high with that one? I would think you'd need more drop unless your truck sits lower than the newer 2500's.
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Old 07-27-2015, 12:42 PM   #710
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Initially it was too high. I have dropped the head down to a point that I feel is correct but I have not gone to the CAT scales yet.

I have a 2013 F250 4x4. The measurement from ground to the top inside of the receiver is 19".
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:10 PM   #711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casarodante View Post
I have a 2013 F250 4x4. The measurement from ground to the top inside of the receiver is 19".
Perfect! Thanks.

Based on those number the 90-02-4300 should be the one.
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Old 07-27-2015, 04:04 PM   #712
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Anyone know if this will fit the ball nut or are the walls too thick?

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Old 07-27-2015, 04:37 PM   #713
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All - We have the Equalizer Hitch (have used for a 19' Bambi and our current 24FB - both with 2013 F150). I have wanted to disassemble, paint, and reassemble, but do not have the tools to properly torque the bolts with very high torque (>100 lbs). How do others deal with this?
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Old 07-27-2015, 05:01 PM   #714
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Anyone know if this will fit the ball nut or are the walls too thick?
I don't know about the one above, but this socket definitly works.

Powerbuilt 643216 3/4-Inch Drive 12 Point 1-7/8-Inch Socket - - Amazon.com

I paired it with this breaker bar.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o07_s01

Inserted the hitch sideways into the receiver, then stood and jumped on the breaker bar. I weight about 170 lbs. At two feet that's 340 lbs of torque. Bouncing up and down a little more. So far the ball in on real tight and has not moved.
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