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Old 07-24-2015, 09:16 AM   #687
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Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
Are the sockets torqued to the recommended 45 ft. lbs. of torque?
A couple of days without lube and the Edmund Fitzgerald breaks deep and takes on water again.


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I've got the hitch head sockets torqued to 45lbs. Seems when you lube up the parts then assemble the sockets and torque them down after a few swings of the sockets the grease scraps off. I'll try a different grease.

Looks like I need to do what Robert did earlier in this tread and get my grinding wheel to grind smooth the head to socket facings a bit. I also need to paint the parts. Not sure why one of my L brackets is showing rust on a face that doesn't have any bar contact.

I'm going to order new socket pins and get another set of L bracket pins.

Kelvin
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Old 07-24-2015, 09:27 AM   #688
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Eeeee
Rrrrrrrrrr
Weeeeee
Pop pop pop
Mine is quiet for now.


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Old 07-24-2015, 08:07 PM   #689
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Hi, on this trip, I made it from Oregon to Illinois before I decided it was time to re-grease my hitch assembly. That was a approximately 3,500 miles. No real heat nor heavy rains, so it lasted longer.
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Old 07-24-2015, 10:36 PM   #690
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I just re greased my hitch assembly after 4000 miles and heavy rains. It was over due, I'm leaving for Yosemite NP on Weds.


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Old 07-24-2015, 11:37 PM   #691
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I can't believe how noisy these things are. Creaking cracking popping groaning. Best fix I've found is to roll the windows up and turn on some music. Works every time. Grease helps too.
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Old 07-25-2015, 06:26 AM   #692
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Has anyone tried these?

Equal-i-zer 95015150 Spring Arm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HRJNIE..._bj3SvbVT94Q9H


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Old 07-25-2015, 06:43 AM   #693
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Yes. Those are the Sway Bracket Jackets.
I bought mine off Amazon.
They quiet things down at the L-bracket end, but the hitch head/ball still has to be greased to get the hitch head to pipe down.
Let those groanin' zombies out yo trailah!


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Old 07-25-2015, 08:26 AM   #694
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i recently got the bracket jackets and they definitely improve things. As the previous poster mentioned, greasing all the right places is a requirement on any hitch system.
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Old 07-25-2015, 08:43 AM   #695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnamjr View Post
Has anyone tried these?

Equal-i-zer 95015150 Spring Arm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HRJNIE..._bj3SvbVT94Q9H


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Just got a set of those and the new spring clips too. Haven't taken a trip yet but it's getting close. I can't wait to try them. I'm tired of the grease on the spring arms, don't mind the dabs at the hitch head. Now, if we could just do something about that WACK noise on the turns, especially in the grocery parking lots. It scares the heck out of the little woman.
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Old 07-25-2015, 09:03 AM   #696
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Well yea you must grease the essentials.

"The wack " is that from the bars shifting side to side?


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Old 07-25-2015, 09:32 AM   #697
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Well yea you must grease the essentials.

"The wack " is that from the bars shifting side to side?

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It's the spring arm (bar) moving between the L bracket and the retainer pin. I don't mind greasing, I hate removing the arms and getting grease all over my hands and clothes, especially when getting ready to head out.
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Old 07-25-2015, 10:04 AM   #698
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I don't think you are supposed to grease the bars or L brackets at all. Mine are bone dry. I do grease the moving parts on the hitch head. The only time I might get a small mark of grease on my hands is when removing the pins that lock the bars to the hitch head.
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Old 07-25-2015, 10:10 AM   #699
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I'm out camping this weekend. When raising the trailer to remove the bars the head was popping like crazy. What is the cause of that noise?

Adding Bracket Jackets also requires you to raise the trailer a little more for the bars to clear the thickness of the jacket.

I've noticed in some instances one bar will clear but the other is still tight in the L bracket even on what seems to be level ground.

The more I own the. Equalizer the more I think it's a clunky design. Glad it came with the purchase of my trailer and didn't have to pay extra for it.

Kelvin
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Old 07-25-2015, 12:05 PM   #700
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They're all "clunky" designs. Something strong enough to lift 10,000# can't have the precision of a Swiss watch.
If one weight bar is free, but the other is still firmly in the L-bracket, either the L- brackets aren't adjusted the same or the trailer and tow vehicle are not level in relation to each other.


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