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Old 11-29-2012, 09:58 AM   #57
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as I said in an earlier thread, if my equalizer had been set up properly, I would not be using brand A. My equ. was originally set up on a 30 ft AS towed by a 2500 GMC. The 30 developed cracks in the body at the point of the battery boxes and A frame. The hitch had 1K bars. When I traded for the 25 ft AS, The same set-up was used. ??????
Equalizer, 1K bars and 30 inches back. When I questioned this, I was told that one only had to change the position of the "L" bracket.
Maybe dealers should be required to have more training BEFORE selling a product such as this instead of using the "it fits" approach.
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:17 AM   #58
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as I said in an earlier thread, if my equalizer had been set up properly, I would not be using brand A. My equ. was originally set up on a 30 ft AS towed by a 2500 GMC. The 30 developed cracks in the body at the point of the battery boxes and A frame. The hitch had 1K bars. When I traded for the 25 ft AS, The same set-up was used. ??????
Equalizer, 1K bars and 30 inches back. When I questioned this, I was told that one only had to change the position of the "L" bracket.
Maybe dealers should be required to have more training BEFORE selling a product such as this instead of using the "it fits" approach.
The battle of "bigger is better" is never ending and is getting worse.

Hitch manufacturers will never offer "what to use suggestions" because of liability.

The bigger the better, also provides bigger and worse damages as well as expenses to correct those damages.

Dealers don't care either, because the "bigger the hitch" the more money they make.

One thing "NO ONE" argues is that an Airstream "MUST" have a soft ride.

Yet in spite of that, the bigger prevails.

Some folks truly believe that "PHYSICS" has nothing to do with an Airstream.

Shops also make tons of money repairing the results of 'bigger is better".

The principals of load equalizing hitches, is not difficult to understand. But most folks, just don't want to go there.

Excessive rated hitches is like putting a "'sledge hammer" to the trailer, that fights back with damages of all kinds and types.

Andy
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:39 AM   #59
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So, this becomes a case where GREED out weighs (pun) the out comes.
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:36 PM   #60
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So, this becomes a case where GREED out weighs (pun) the out comes.
Welcome to the world of RV's.

Unfortunately, it seems like greed far exceeds the desire to make RV owners happy, secure and safe, by caring for them and their needs.

Some providers of RV's, their parts and services, it seems like want them for a customer one time and then "don't care" to help them protect their investment and ability to enjoy RVing to it's fullest, with the least expense and problems.

Perhaps that's why many don't last very long in the business.

Andy
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:08 PM   #61
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Thank you again, Andy.
It was your empirical testing that led to my bar "reduction" project!
And my going with 600 lb. bars on my 25" FB....behind my DMAX.
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:41 PM   #62
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Here'e a different thought. This is the 400 lb bar setup on my little Bambi II. I figure it is still too much hitch behind my DMAX, but perhaps okay with the Touareg. So the setup for the Dmax is with very little, if any, leveling force. So about all it does is serve as an anti sway hitch and keep gear from bouncing around inside. So far with 6,000 miles on the Bambi this has worked fine. I towed the Bambi several hundred miles with just a plain ball-on-shank and had gear all over the place.

Here's the only reason I even have this hitch. I bought the trailer two years ago with the original 46 year old Equal-i-zer. I called the factory about welding a modification to the shank to fit the current TV. The factory hesitated then, instead, traded me straight across for a brand new one. They wanted the old one for a historic display. You can probably view it at their home plant.
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:00 PM   #63
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spacer for gas line

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Originally Posted by CrawfordGene View Post
Farmboy',

Someone mentioned the propane line that gets in the way of the L bracket on the curbside. It was not difficult to loosen the propane line and then run the lower bolt for the bracket in the right place. I also put vinyl tubing over the propane lines to protect them, so the line is protected from any abrasion from the bracket assembly.
Here's another solution for the gas line. I fabricated/welded up a spacer and put it over the line since I didn't want to disturb the line.

The dealer had installed L-pads over the gas line without moving it or protecting it! By the way they also put an under-capacity hitch on it as well along with the wrong drop. Bought the trailer from the original owner who simply knew no better. Fortunately he hadn't used it but for one short trip.

I sold the old setup and bought a new Equalizer and installed it per Equalizer's instructions.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:53 PM   #64
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Hi, here are a few pictures showing what I did. After this modification, my brackets have never slipped.

Note: the first set of copper tubing sleeves were cut at 2"s, this set came out about a 1/16" shorter, but still work great.
I want to do this mod, 2 questions.
1. Do I cut the copper tubing the same width as the frame, or 1/8" shorter.
2. Why not use lockwashers to prevent coming loose and slipping?
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Old 12-03-2012, 10:07 PM   #65
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I want to do this mod, 2 questions.
1. Do I cut the copper tubing the same width as the frame, or 1/8" shorter.
2. Why not use lock washers to prevent coming loose and slipping?
Hi, cut the copper tubing the same width of the frame. The copper tubing will crush a little bit if needed. [2"] Use either lock washers or lock nuts. Not shown in my pictures, but I changed all six bracket nuts to locking nuts.
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:04 PM   #66
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My "L" brackets are showing more wear on the forward edge of the horizontal surface the bar rests on. Is this just normal since the bar is tensioned to flex and therefore not be entirely level?
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:26 PM   #67
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My "L" brackets are showing more wear on the forward edge of the horizontal surface the bar rests on. Is this just normal since the bar is tensioned to flex and therefore not be entirely level?

Hi, Yes, my "L" brackets got a little wear on them too. I think mostly because of the frame brackets moving, the "L" brackets moving, and when I had my "L" brackets up one hole. I cured the frame brackets from moving with my third bolt and copper tubing modifications. I cranked down on the "L" bracket bolts [square head] until they eventually threaded into my "L" brackets. I keep my spring bars level with my trailer frame and installed the bracket jackets. [plastic pads] You could swap sides with your "L" brackets to let them wear on the other side. I bought a spare set of bracket jackets, but never needed to use them yet.
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:36 PM   #68
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Hi, cut the copper tubing the same width of the frame. The copper tubing will crush a little bit if needed. [2"] Use either lock washers or lock nuts. Not shown in my pictures, but I changed all six bracket nuts to locking nuts.
My Argosy frame is 1 1/2" thick, but because it is boxed, the welds make it 1/8 thicker at top and bottom inside frame. Is this a problem with the brackets gripping the frame, should I grind off the raised welds, or just tighten up with the copper tubes. This is an old style but new in the box hitch, and I have not used it yet on the Argosy. Your input is appreciated.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:29 PM   #69
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I've had my Equalizer for a year and I am generally happy with it in all respects now. I wasn't sure in the beginning, but I am pretty sold on it now after towing some 10,000 miles. I have a FC 25 and I use the #1000 bars.

The EQ is easy to hitch/unhitch. My wife and I have it down to a couple minutes with maybe the worst part being lifting it out of the bin in my Suburban and putting it in the receiver. It's bulky-heavy with no good grabs. But with heavy work gloves it goes ok. (We keep bars and hitch in the back of the TV at all times.)

My weight transfer is pretty close as measured by the wheel well method in the directions. There's a paucity of scales here and I haven't done that yet. I am very sensitive to how the Sub handles hitched v. unhitched, and I am happy that it is very close having made adjustments twice now after it was initially installed a year ago.

The hookup is brainless. Insert bars, raise TV, put on the locks and pins, lower the TV - roll.

The bars are stiff and they do not have the appearance of a big bow in them like some other WD hitches. The only significance of this stiffness is that when rolling up a dip like a driveway of a gas station, the TV/TT pair doesn't bend as easily at the ball/coupler, so you get some groaning. This has no negative affect on the trailer - in spite of this sound. If one had to do a LOT of slow speed maneuvering over such gullies, it might be a concern. Otherwise, insignificant. The "ride quality" (softness/harshness) of the TT is unaffected by the stiffness because the ball/coupler is a solid connection, so that whatever the rear end of the Sub body does, so does the TT through the ball/coupler connection (just like with a 'bendy' bar). My Sub is not over stiff, so the ride in both is smooth, subject to the road surface.

The last question is the anti-sway performance. I think first off my Sub has a great tire. They are very low profile 20 inchers with a stiff sidewall. It is hard to push the back end to and fro over the axle. With the trailer on, there is no sway under any of the conditions I've encountered yet. On a two lane, running at 60MPH, if a tractor trailer comes by at 60MPH, I don't even have to twitch the steering wheel - nothing. The trailer may rock slightly, but it doesn't lose track and pull my back end out.

I've driven in high wind and no trouble. I have to cross many twisty 9,000 foot passes back and forth, and the unit handles flawlessly. I don't drive over 62MPH even on open road, so I have no comments about what it might be like at speeds higher than that.

I have considered other hitches by simply getting involved in the excitement over other brands, or new designs, or more exotic ones, but now that a year - and 10,000 miles - has come and gone, I feel like the hitch is "checked off" and under control. It does everything a hitch should do. Even my brackets are still straight. It gathered a little rust, but otherwise is fine. For $650 or so, I'd say kudos to the company.
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:19 PM   #70
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I really don't want to hijack this thread ; but has anyone seen the American Family Insurance Ad? There is a single axel Airstream that needs a hitch. The back of the trailer is way lower than the front.
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