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Old 05-26-2015, 11:31 PM   #617
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Now take a hammer and a center punch and punch the threads on the ball threads just where the nut meets it to keep it from backing off.


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Old 05-26-2015, 11:47 PM   #618
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My bars, when removed, slide right back into the cardboard box they arrived in- with some duct tape reinforcement on the ends. They have lasted several years with judicious and careful use, sliding in and out carefully and store easily in the back of our Sube.

The hitch/head I simply remove, put into a card-board lined (for padding and to keep the grease from the carpet) "milk crate" that lifts easily, and fits it handily - I remove the hitch from the receiver, put it in the crate, then lift the crate into the back of the Sube. Works great, simple, handy, and if we leave the campsite, the hitch leaves with us. I like, and have seen, MeFly's well-fitted plastic conduit solution. When my cardboard box falls apart, I'll probably do what he did!
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:53 AM   #619
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I used to fret over how to store bars and head when camping. I gave it up and now store them like this. Obviously I have given up worries about theft of the bars. Also yields big benefit when hooking back up, it's all right there.
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Old 05-27-2015, 11:21 AM   #620
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Does any know how much lower the bars go down in relation to the L brackets when you add another washer on the head? The lower the bars go down the higher you have to raise the trailer connected to the truck. I also have to clear the thickness of the bracket jacket I have on the L bars.

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Old 05-27-2015, 01:48 PM   #621
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I used to fret over how to store bars and head when camping. I gave it up and now store them like this. Obviously I have given up worries about theft of the bars. Also yields big benefit when hooking back up, it's all right there.

That's exactly what I do.
I camped in 2012 and 2013 and part of 2014 before it occurred to me to store them that way.


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Old 05-27-2015, 11:30 PM   #622
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I used to fret over how to store bars and head when camping. I gave it up and now store them like this. Obviously I have given up worries about theft of the bars. Also yields big benefit when hooking back up, it's all right there.
I'd chop off those cross bolts before you get buggered / ouched ...takes a while, but worth the effort.
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Old 05-28-2015, 06:21 AM   #623
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I'd chop off those cross bolts before you get buggered / ouched ...takes a while, but worth the effort.
Thought about it but I have another hitch that I'll likely use soon and simply didn't want to spend the time on it.
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Old 05-28-2015, 08:31 AM   #624
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Finally ordered the sway jackets. This week I will add 2 washers to the hitch and move the brackets to make the bars more parallel with the frame..

I love how easy this hitch is to use.
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:00 AM   #625
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Does any know how much lower the bars go down in relation to the L brackets when you add another washer on the head? The lower the bars go down the higher you have to raise the trailer connected to the truck. I also have to clear the thickness of the bracket jacket I have on the L bars.

Kelvin
I thinkered with my hitch earlier this year. As I recall, adding the washers transferred more weight to the front axle and didn't have much of an impact on how high I had to raise the TV to slide the bars on. I added two washers and went up one hole on the "L" bracket. Raise that "L" bracket a notch and that makes a big difference in how high the TV rear end has to go. I tried two notches initially, came back down one. The TV was almost off the ground and the bars had a definite bend in them.
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:23 AM   #626
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I don't want to raise the L brackets as they are parallel to the frame which I believe is the recommended position. Adding a washer pivots the head down a bit and the angle of the bar sockets on the head. My Tundra sits level with the AS attached, 37" from ground to vendor on all wheels. The front clearance is about 50% returned from the unloaded position. Just wondering what would one more washer would do to the front and if it would require the power jack to work a lot harder especially at campsites with a bit of a hill so the hitch head is angled further down in relation with the trailer. Guess I can pull it to level ground then put the bars on.

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Old 05-28-2015, 01:57 PM   #627
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Parallel is recommended, but I couldn't get enough lift/weight transfer or sway control until I raised the L-brackets. They are no longer parallel, but the whole towing experience is better- les bounce in the ride snd less sway when vehicles pass-


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Old 05-28-2015, 04:40 PM   #628
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I used to fret over how to store bars and head when camping. I gave it up and now store them like this. Obviously I have given up worries about theft of the bars. Also yields big benefit when hooking back up, it's all right there.
It looks like you drilled and pinned your L Bracket retainers and abandoned the stock wire bales. Is that what I'm seeing in your photo?

Did you have a stock one with the wire bale fail?
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Old 05-28-2015, 06:04 PM   #629
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That is to reduce slop and play in the L-pins, I think-
I have the ones with the flip-over wire bail at the L-pins and where the bars attach to the hitch head- much easier- the original ones with the cotter keys are in my rear bumper storage just in case I lose or break one.


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Old 05-28-2015, 06:27 PM   #630
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It looks like you drilled and pinned your L Bracket retainers and abandoned the stock wire bales. Is that what I'm seeing in your photo?

Did you have a stock one with the wire bale fail?
No failure, that's how it came from Equalizer about 3 years ago.
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