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Old 05-09-2015, 04:19 PM   #561
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Looking forward to using the Equalizer on my not yet delivered 25ft Flying Cloud. My last TT was 36ft, I replaced the Reese with an Equalizer & was thrilled with the ease of use( no chains). I sold the Trailer before really putting the Equalizer to the test but I liked it enough to buy another one.
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Old 05-10-2015, 01:36 PM   #562
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Last week I traded my 2013 F250 two wheel drive TV for a 2015 F250 four wheel drive. The receiver height is 5" taller. Wanting to get away from needing to use a sleeve on the shank with the F250 receiver, I bought the Equal-i-zer 2 1/2" 6" drop shank. This setup dropped the ball 4". Will gaining an extra inch in hitch height be a concern?
...sounds like you are in the ballpark ...now - after you get the weight distribution set up properly - check your AS for level: front to back. I think you will find that you are very close. If anything, the 3/4 T will likely provide a stiffer ride for the AS and you will not need much in terms of WD and you may see enough rear suspension sag to take you to the proper coupler / hitch height; the other benefits of the EQ anti sway will still be there. If you can't get the trailer level ... just come as close as you can in lieu of visiting a welding shop to get lower. Incidentally, there are other vendors who also sell drop shanks that work well with the EQ brand hitch- should you decide to go that route for perfection.
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Old 05-11-2015, 10:09 AM   #563
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geez buy a new vehicle the get to buy new shank seeing as the new one is 4 inches taller at the receiver than the old one was, oh well.
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Old 05-17-2015, 09:44 PM   #564
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As I was unhitching my trailer in my yard today I noticed the ball wasn't snug on the hitch. Using a wrench I found it to be loose, actually pretty sloppy. A real scare. I had just pulled it home from storage, about 10 miles. It was torqued tight when new about three years ago. Taking it to a shop to have it done again.
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:51 AM   #565
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As I was unhitching my trailer in my yard today I noticed the ball wasn't snug on the hitch. Using a wrench I found it to be loose, actually pretty sloppy. A real scare. I had just pulled it home from storage, about 10 miles. It was torqued tight when new about three years ago. Taking it to a shop to have it done again.
I suspect many, if not most never get the hitch ball torqued correctly. Further, my opinion is that tightening them with just a air impact is at best, just a "guess" at how tight you are getting it.
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Old 05-19-2015, 08:14 AM   #566
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I suspect many, if not most never get the hitch ball torqued correctly. Further, my opinion is that tightening them with just a air impact is at best, just a "guess" at how tight you are getting it.
Agree totally on the air impact. The nut on the ball requires 430 ft-lbs. If it is on the higher capacity hitch, it also requires the $83 thin walled socket that Equalizer sells to get to it due to clearance issues. By the way, the socket is 3/4" drive. So if you take it to a shop, they need the right tools.

There are a couple of photos of the issue in this thread:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...tch-94976.html
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Old 05-19-2015, 06:15 PM   #567
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Big Rig Shop To The Rescue

I addressed this issue about seven years ago in another thread.

Go and find a place that works on diesel trucks. Big rigs. They will have a thin walled socket that will fit, and an air ratchet/impact gun that will go to 1200 ft-lbs of torque. Tell them to set it at 450 ft-lbs, give them $20, and you're good.

After seven years and 25,000 miles, mine is still tight as a drum.

See ya on the road,
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Old 05-20-2015, 11:42 AM   #568
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I have a 3/4" drive socket, not an impact one. I tapered it at the end on a good bench grinder so it fits nicely.

Works for my EQ and yes it was tightened with a torque wrench.
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Old 05-20-2015, 08:56 PM   #569
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Fourth time out and my new Equalizer has gotten really noisey. Should I lube it or is it best to leave it alone? Would a lube like silicone spray lessen it's effectiveness?
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Old 05-20-2015, 09:44 PM   #570
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We operate on the theory that spray lubes aren't up to the challenge. On our hitch's pivot points and on the hitch ball we use Equal-i-zer High Performance Lubricant that comes in a squeeze tube, though many similar products probably work as well. We also use Equal-i-zer sway bracket jackets. This combination keeps the groaning zombies quiet and the hitch is a pleasant product to use.

Before we started this regime, we once had our Equal-i-zer squealing so badly that people could hear us from one end of the campground to the other, and we thought the darn thing was broken. Now we can sneak in after dark.

Feel free to PM if you have more questions.
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Old 05-20-2015, 10:10 PM   #571
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Do lubes detract from the effectiveness of the friction based system?
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Old 05-20-2015, 10:21 PM   #572
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Your Equal-i-zer manual specifies that it's fine to lubricate the hitch head's pivot points. Initially, we also lubed the bars on the sway brackets out of desperation, but stopped doing that once we added the sway bracket jackets. Bonus: the hitch bars and sway brackets aren't greasy anymore!
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Old 05-21-2015, 10:17 AM   #573
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Quote:
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Fourth time out and my new Equalizer has gotten really noisey. Should I lube it or is it best to leave it alone? Would a lube like silicone spray lessen it's effectiveness?
Short of drilling and installing a grease zirk, it is very difficult to get any lubrication into (and keep it there) the socket pivots. However, some light lube (even if not grease) is better than none. With the bracket jackets, no lube is needed (nor would it provide any sound reduction) on the arms.
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Old 05-21-2015, 10:31 AM   #574
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I just talked to the factory. they said to lube the pivots with red bearing grease. OPen them to 180 degrees and lube, then to the opposite position and lube
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