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Old 01-18-2015, 03:38 PM   #519
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Originally Posted by richw46 View Post
...
I've tried adjusting the hitch ball height but if I raise it, no matter how many washers, it's still not enough.

Unloaded, in the garage I get these readings:
Front - 33.5"
Rear - 36"

Put the trailer on, no WD I get these readings:
Front - 34.75"
Rear - 33.5"

Trailer on, add WD (road ready)
Front - 34.25"
Rear - 34"

Again, biggest issue is getting the A-Frame stand on or off and that it's just not sitting quite right. ..

It seems like you should be able to get your front ground to wheel well measurement less than what is posted. Otherwise, you will be blinding oncoming traffic while driving after dark arrives. It appears - to me at least - that you need to transfer more weight to the front of your truck ... what load bars do you have??
I would advise you that if you don't start with your ball at the proper height on the unladen TV, then all of the rest of the adjustment is moot.
Level your trailer by measuring the distance from the ground to the frame both front and rear ... adjust your camper jack so that the two measurements are equal; that does NOT have to be on level ground.

Then measure the distance from the ground to the inside of the coupler "socket". Add ~1" to that measurement and that should be the ~ top of your ball when the hitch is inserted in to the receiver. Adjust the position of the hitch (as much as the horizontal holes will permit) on the shank until you have that approximate measurement ... go from there with adjusting the W/D - with the goal of adding or subtracting washers until you get the load arms properly positioned so that they are parallel to the frame of the trailer tongue ... again, this does NOT have to be on level ground - just keep the TV and AS on the same plane.

The moving of the "L"-brackets / load bar positioning on the AS a-frame is for fine tuning your W/D as the loads change in the AS ... fine tuning is the important term here.
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Old 01-24-2015, 10:16 AM   #520
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I really appreciate the help from everyone. I want to get this thing right. The trailer tows quite well as is, but I want the adjustments to be correct.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mefly2 View Post
It seems like you should be able to get your front ground to wheel well measurement less than what is posted. Otherwise, you will be blinding oncoming traffic while driving after dark arrives. It appears - to me at least - that you need to transfer more weight to the front of your truck ... what load bars do you have??
I agree, the nose is a little high and I want to add more weight to the front axle. The problem was that the L brackets were as high as I could get them. Trailer documentation says it has an 18" ball height. The trailer was slightly nose down as well as the rear axle carrying too much weight. I've checked all my documentation and I find the Equalizer book but there is no check mark by the particular model. Since the maximum for the trailer is 4700 lbs. I'm guessing it has 6,000 lb. bars.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mefly2 View Post
I would advise you that if you don't start with your ball at the proper height on the unladen TV, then all of the rest of the adjustment is moot.
Level your trailer by measuring the distance from the ground to the frame both front and rear ... adjust your camper jack so that the two measurements are equal; that does NOT have to be on level ground.

Then measure the distance from the ground to the inside of the coupler "socket". Add ~1" to that measurement and that should be the ~ top of your ball when the hitch is inserted in to the receiver. Adjust the position of the hitch (as much as the horizontal holes will permit) on the shank until you have that approximate measurement ... go from there with adjusting the W/D - with the goal of adding or subtracting washers until you get the load arms properly positioned so that they are parallel to the frame of the trailer tongue ... again, this does NOT have to be on level ground - just keep the TV and AS on the same plane.

The moving of the "L"-brackets / load bar positioning on the AS a-frame is for fine tuning your W/D as the loads change in the AS ... fine tuning is the important term here.
I have an SUV, Equalizer manual says I should start with 4 washers, max of 8. I have 6 in there now. It says if I am nose up I should add washers or raise the L bracket. Since I had 6 I wanted to raise the L brackets. I have now flipped them so I can raise the bars. I also raised the hitch head on the shank. I'm at the top of the shank and the trailer seems to be sitting better. The nose is still up, more than before, I think. It's been raining but I can get out and measure today or tomorrow.

The trailer still handles well. We moved about 60 miles yesterday, high winds. Most tractor trailers had that air dam in front but other than a slight push, the AS tracked well and the TV did fine. I'll try to make adjustments today and we'll move again tomorrow.

Again, thanks for the help.
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Old 01-24-2015, 10:28 AM   #521
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Looks better and sounds like you have the plan in place ... even with the 600 bars I would think that you are fine. Suggest to add one more washer - I know, what a pain to disassemble and add, but once you get it dialed in, you are set!
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Old 01-24-2015, 10:36 AM   #522
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If it were me, I would add the two remaining washers and then drop a hole when reinstalling the hitch head. The reason is the washers will raise the rear end of your SUV and would then raise the front end of your trailer as well. Cant really tell by the picture provided due to possble uneven terrain. Good luck, I'm sure you'll get it dialed in.
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Old 01-24-2015, 09:12 PM   #523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mefly2 View Post
Looks better and sounds like you have the plan in place ... even with the 600 bars I would think that you are fine. Suggest to add one more washer - I know, what a pain to disassemble and add, but once you get it dialed in, you are set!
I am SOOO good at taking this thing apart now I can do it blindfolded in under 2 minutes; kind of like disassembling an M-14 in the army.

I measured the hitch ball height this morning and I had to drop down to the next shank hole. I'll go ahead and add the one washer I have left. We have to hook up in the morning so I'll have the opportunity to check wheel well height again. Then a 60 mile relocation trip for good measure.
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Old 01-24-2015, 09:19 PM   #524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subfan1 View Post
If it were me, I would add the two remaining washers and then drop a hole when reinstalling the hitch head. The reason is the washers will raise the rear end of your SUV and would then raise the front end of your trailer as well. Cant really tell by the picture provided due to possble uneven terrain. Good luck, I'm sure you'll get it dialed in.
Since I have it stored away from the house and since the weather back home was so cold, I've postponed making more adjustments. Now that we're down here in Florida for a month, I've got some time to tinker.

I'll add the one washer I have in the morning. I measured the hitch ball height and came down one notch. I'll recheck the wheel well height in the morning before we head out.

Thanks
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Old 01-25-2015, 06:57 PM   #525
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Measurements now are
Front - 33.75
Rear - 33.125

So the front is now 1/2" higher than it is unloaded but the rear is almost 3" lower. I'll try the last washer and see what that will get me. At 1/2" I don't think I'm blinding anyone anymore, but I don't understand why adding a washer and putting more tension on the spring arms (raising the L brackets) increases the pressure on the rear axle.

Still learning
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Old 01-26-2015, 12:34 PM   #526
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All else being kept the same (not changing the ball position), adding a washer or raising the L-brackets increases the WD and should raise the rear of your TV, raise the front of the AS, and lower the front of the TV.

Something else must be going on here. Is the TV suspension in order? City, county, and highway law enforcement officers will let you know at night if your headlights are still too high ......hopefully without a valentine! Around here, failure to dim or elevated beams are a reason for a traffic stop (pc implies impaired) and a magnet for citations.
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:13 AM   #527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mefly2 View Post
All else being kept the same (not changing the ball position), adding a washer or raising the L-brackets increases the WD and should raise the rear of your TV, raise the front of the AS, and lower the front of the TV.

Something else must be going on here. Is the TV suspension in order? City, county, and highway law enforcement officers will let you know at night if your headlights are still too high ......hopefully without a valentine! Around here, failure to dim or elevated beams are a reason for a traffic stop (pc implies impaired) and a magnet for citations.
I wish we would have some of your area's police officers in Alabama. Most native drivers here go out of their way to blind drivers in oncoming cars. The same applies to following too close and having high beaon onms AND driving lights on at the same time.....
For whatever it's worth...

Larry
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Old 01-27-2015, 05:20 PM   #528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mefly2 View Post
Something else must be going on here. Is the TV suspension in order? City, county, and highway law enforcement officers will let you know at night if your headlights are still too high ......hopefully without a valentine! Around here, failure to dim or elevated beams are a reason for a traffic stop (pc implies impaired) and a magnet for citations.
The 4Runner has less than 75K miles on it, never had a problem with it. Really seems odd but I'll add that washer and see what it does. I usually pull in someplace by dark anyway. Since the front is nearly what it is unloaded I don't think it's impacting the headlights much. We'll see what the next tweak brings.
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Old 01-27-2015, 05:32 PM   #529
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I finally remembered to get a few images of the Air Safe - Equalizer combination. That's a heavy beast.
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Old 02-08-2015, 08:49 PM   #530
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I've been towing my '98 Classic 30' with an F-250 and a PullRite hitch for 16 years. No better hitch in my opinion (pivot point is at rear axle), but they do not make one to fit my new truck, a Ram 1500. I've decided to order an Equalizer.

My Airstream is currently parked on uneven ground and can't be moved, so I can't accurately measure the height to the inside top of my coupler. My original owners book says it is 18 3/4", and I still have the 15" wheels on it and my axle is good, so I'm assuming this is correct. Can anyone confirm that this is correct?

My inside top of receiver height is 20". The Equalizer on-line shank selector tool indicates the I should use the 90-02-4300 shank which has a 6" drop. Because it is 11 1/4" tall, I'm concerned road dips could cause ground impacts, as others have described here. Is anyone with similar receiver heights finding they have to use a shank with this much drop?

Lastly, my measurements indicate I might not be able to lower my tailgate while hitched up. Is this common? If so, has anyone tried the 18" long shank (vs. the standard 12")? It seems that it would somewhat impact the effectiveness of the sway reduction and weight transfer. I don't know if its worth it just to be able to lower my tailgate.
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Old 02-08-2015, 09:53 PM   #531
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Of further note, on the Equalizer on-line shank selector tool, when I increased the coupler ground height by just 3/4", it recommended a shank with just a 4" drop vs. the earlier mentioned 6" drop.
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Old 02-08-2015, 10:53 PM   #532
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Quote:
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I've been towing my '98 Classic 30' with an F-250 and a PullRite hitch for 16 years. No better hitch in my opinion (pivot point is at rear axle), but they do not make one to fit my new truck, a Ram 1500. I've decided to order an Equalizer.

My Airstream is currently parked on uneven ground and can't be moved, so I can't accurately measure the height to the inside top of my coupler. My original owners book says it is 18 3/4", and I still have the 15" wheels on it and my axle is good, so I'm assuming this is correct. Can anyone confirm that this is correct?

My inside top of receiver height is 20". The Equalizer on-line shank selector tool indicates the I should use the 90-02-4300 shank which has a 6" drop. Because it is 11 1/4" tall, I'm concerned road dips could cause ground impacts, as others have described here. Is anyone with similar receiver heights finding they have to use a shank with this much drop?

Lastly, my measurements indicate I might not be able to lower my tailgate while hitched up. Is this common? If so, has anyone tried the 18" long shank (vs. the standard 12")? It seems that it would somewhat impact the effectiveness of the sway reduction and weight transfer. I don't know if its worth it just to be able to lower my tailgate.
The bottom of my shank would sometimes hit; so I used a cut off wheel in a 4" grinder and cut it off. Be prepared as it takes some time!
The longer 18" shank may cause a bit of instability... so, we stayed with the standard "extension" and got used to not being able to open the tailgate all the way when hitched... just padded it between the tailgate and the camper jack when not disconnected. Suggest checking "in hand" with a local dealer to make sure of the proper shank as they are spendy to ship back and forth. I needed one exchanged and the dealer still charged me $30 !
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