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ROBERTSUNRUS · 02-27-2015, 11:24 PM

Hi, My truck and trailer were on my RV pad and it has a very slight slope to it. I believe that when on totally level ground That 1/4" up in front might become zero, or back to unloaded height. Also during this test my trailer frame was 15 1/2"s high in front and 15 1/2"s high in rear. I believe this is as close as it gets on a RV pad set-up.

(1.) Front of frame.

(2.) Front of frame at 15 1/2"s high.

(3.) Rear of frame.

(4.) Rear of frame at 15 1/2"s high.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 02-27-2015, 11:34 PM

Hi, I also wanted to mention that during this test set-up, I used the same 6 1/2 washers adjustment that I used with my Lincoln.

mefly2 · 02-28-2015, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

I just traded my 2006 F150 for a 2013 Ram 2500. As has been stated here, the ride is somewhat stiffer and I'm considering machining the bars on my hitch. My trailer came from the PO with a 10000/1000 hitch. Since the trailer GVWR is only 6300#, one could argue that the 6000/600 hitch might have been a better choice for him (and for me). I am concerned about the shock being transmitted to the trailer, and am thinking about machining the bars to be equivalent to the 600# bars. I am assuming that I will still need/want some weight distribution, but i can't hook it up to measure yet because my hitch has a Class IV shank and the new truck has a Class V receiver. While i address that problem, I'd like to get ready to machine my bars.

Questions:
1. If you are towing with a recent (2007-2015) Ram 2500, how much weight are you shifting to the front axle?

2. Can anyone provide me with the height and width of the 6000/600 bars?

Thanks,

Al

Do a search as I detailed the process you are describing for using the 1,000 EQ hitch with a 25 AS ... much smoother ride for the AS after I tapered the bars - when we went from an F150 to a Ram 2500.

Al and Missy · 02-28-2015, 03:59 PM

mefly2 - Thanks. I found a post that explained how to do the taper based on moment of inertia calculations but it didn't have the dimensions for the 600# bars. I don't think it was yours. Sounds like you did exactly what I want to do.

SCOTTinNJ · 02-28-2015, 04:01 PM

What dimensions do you want from the 600# bars. I have them and can measure.

Edit - Oh. I see now. Will measure.

SCOTTinNJ · 02-28-2015, 04:07 PM

1-1/4" x 1-1/4"

Al and Missy · 02-28-2015, 04:20 PM

Thanks Scott. I was away searching for mefly2's post. I came back to report that I found it and the answer was 1.25x1.25 but you had already posted it.

Now I gotta go see my friend with the bridgeport.

Al

chaseav · 03-14-2015, 08:08 PM

I have an Equalizer 1000b hitch hooked up to my Chevy Avalanche. No complaints, tow's like a dream... with one head scratcher. When I turn sharply at slow speed (aka maneuvering) I'll hear a mildly loud thud. It also tends to make slight creaking sounds whenever I'm driving slow enough to hear it. Is this normal? This is a dealer installed hitch on a brand new International 25FB I just got in December so yes, I'm a newbie. Thanks!

m.hony · 03-14-2015, 10:10 PM

The squealing, creaking, thumping, ticking is normal. It is the anti-sway doing what it is designed to do.

mefly2 · 03-14-2015, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chaseav

I have an Equalizer 1000b hitch hooked up to my Chevy Avalanche. No complaints, tow's like a dream... with one head scratcher. When I turn sharply at slow speed (aka maneuvering) I'll hear a mildly loud thud. It also tends to make slight creaking sounds whenever I'm driving slow enough to hear it. Is this normal? This is a dealer installed hitch on a brand new International 25FB I just got in December so yes, I'm a newbie. Thanks!

EQ sells pads to sip on the L-brackets (bracket jackets) which will greatly reduce the noises from the tension bars rubbing against the L-brackets ... still enough friction for anti sway. It is an excellent design with engineering proven over the years... mostly bullet proof once you have it dialed in for your configuration.

graysailor · 03-15-2015, 07:26 AM

I installed these Equal-i-zer 95015150 Spring Arm and much of the snap crackle and pop noises go away. I also have had no problems with my Equal-i-zer. Very easy to hook up and take down.

kscherzi · 03-15-2015, 07:31 AM

The other source of noise is the head unit. You'll need to have a regular maintenance routine to clean and grease it. Periodically remove the two rotating square tubes from the head for cleaning. Freshly greased combined with the Teflon pads for the L brackets should result in a silent hitch.

mefly2 · 03-15-2015, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by graysailor

I installed these Equal-i-zer 95015150 Spring Arm and much of the snap crackle and pop noises go away. I also have had no problems with my Equal-i-zer. Very easy to hook up and take down.

He is talking about the "bracket jackets."

I have found no need to disassemble the head for cleaning.
It is highly unlikely - if the spring arm socket pivot bolts are properly torqued- that any amount of contaminant will work into the surfaces that bear on each other. Keeping the socket pivots lubed: yes; cleaning ... nope, haven't seen the need over the past 15 years. It does make me wonder, however, just why they didn't drill and put in a grease zerk on the socket pivots...

m.hony · 03-15-2015, 04:29 PM

I have Bracket Jackets. They do cut down the noise significantly, but do not entirely eliminate the noise.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 03-15-2015, 07:21 PM

[QUOTE=mefly2;1593681]He is talking about the "bracket jackets."

I have found no need to disassemble the head for cleaning.
It is highly unlikely - if the spring arm socket pivot bolts are properly torqued- that any amount of contaminant will work into the surfaces that bear on each other. Keeping the socket pivots lubed: yes; cleaning ... nope, haven't seen the need over the past 15 years. It does make me wonder, however, just why they didn't drill and put in a grease zerk on the socket pivots...[/QUOTE]

Hi, I always remove, clean, and grease my spring bar sockets. I have also thought about drilling into the hitch head to install zerk fittings. I believe that if the zerks were centered with the top of the sockets in their operational position, It would save from taking the hitch apart so often.

chaseav · 03-15-2015, 10:09 PM

Okay cool. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't somehow doing something wrong. I did two trips without a greased ball (hey, nobody told me to!) and after hearing the hitch "talk" enough I did grease it up. It seemed to like that as we all do from time to time.

. It worked well so I greased the brackets which did absolutely nothing except get grease everywhere. Any need to grease the stabilizer arms where they lock into the hitch?

Final question and its a biggie philosophically: is it best to avoid sharp maneuvering at all with a WD hitch? Seems like if it's making noise that's a lot of stress on something that will eventually break or bend.

Thanks All!

kscherzi · 03-16-2015, 07:27 AM

Remove the grease from the rear located L brackets. Those are supposed to be dry for proper operation. My hitch head when new had to wear in quite a bit. In the process most the grease was squeezed out and it sounded like an old battleship coming around the bend. A complete take apart cleaning and regreasing fixed the noise.

kstewart23 · 03-16-2015, 06:30 PM

We have had our Equalizer hitch for several weeks, along with our AS. We have driven in a snow storm, and loads of rain. We were to return home to Texas yesterday and ran into a bit of an issue with the spring bar sockets, they were basically frozen. With the help of some WD40 we were able push the bars over just enough to get them on the L brackets and come home, but just barely. I am taking in the truck side of the hitch and the bars on Thursday to Airstream service. Just wondering if anyone else had this kind of issue and what the cause ended up being. I think with all the rain, it's just not greased enough or maybe it self tightened if that is possible.

Zeitlupe · 05-07-2015, 08:23 PM

Last week I traded my 2013 F250 two wheel drive TV for a 2015 F250 four wheel drive. The receiver height is 5" taller. Wanting to get away from needing to use a sleeve on the shank with the F250 receiver, I bought the Equal-i-zer 2 1/2" 6" drop shank. This setup dropped the ball 4". Will gaining an extra inch in hitch height be a concern?

Zeitlupe · 05-09-2015, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeitlupe

Last week I traded my 2013 F250 two wheel drive TV for a 2015 F250 four wheel drive. The receiver height is 5" taller. Wanting to get away from needing to use a sleeve on the shank with the F250 receiver, I bought the Equal-i-zer 2 1/2" 6" drop shank. This setup dropped the ball 4". Will gaining an extra inch in hitch height be a concern?

Zeitlupe, be sure to check the entire Equal-i-zer Hitch Thread. More than likely you will find your answer. And then some.