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Old 08-08-2014, 08:53 PM   #365
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Originally Posted by Tomzstream View Post
So I measured the height of the hitch ball this morning with the truck pretty much unloaded but in its "load leveled" position and it is 23 inches to the top of the ball. Height to the top of the receiver is 18 inches. The Ball height seems a bit too high to me. I've attached a photo of the hitch showing the inverted shank.

If the specs for an 2007 AS Safari 23 ft are correct, tongue height is more like 18 inches. I believe this shank needs to be reversed and the ball lowered.

Your thoughts?
Yes you definitely need to invert the shank. Level the trailer and measure to the top of the coupler. Then you need to set the height of the top of the ball close to that height by moving the head down on the shank.

I was trying to set up the hitch on my new Ram 2500 today. Couldn't get the ball height low enough so I had to order a shank with more drop. My Airstream is a money pit. But I wouldn't trade it.
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Old 08-09-2014, 06:30 AM   #366
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Maybe I should invert the hitch head.
I don't think another washer or 2 will lift it this high-
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Old 08-10-2014, 06:14 PM   #367
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Just installed a Equalizer for my 2012 F-150 and 2014 25' FC rear twin combo. I wasn't able to get to the scales yet but I did take some measurements. Wondering what the forum feels about the setup.

I am purposely not saying what size bars I have because I would like to see the comments first.

Truck empty
front: 37 7/8"
rear: 38 5/8"

Truck and trailer without WD bar
front: 38 3/8" (up 1/2" from truck alone)
rear: 36 1/4" (down 2 3/8" from truck alone)

Truck and trailer with WD bars
front: 37 3/4" (down 1/8" from truck alone)
rear: 36 7/8" (down 1 3/4" from truck alone)

How does that look?
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Old 08-10-2014, 11:21 PM   #368
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Sounds pretty good, but based on our limited experience I'd suggest distributing a bit more weight on the front to even out the displacement of your front and rear axles. Maybe just a washer or two?

Let's see what the truly experienced EQ jockeys have to say.
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Old 08-11-2014, 10:25 AM   #369
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I would say you need another washer. The ideal is to have the front and rear of the truck compress equally, but within an inch if each other is acceptable. You're 1 5/8" apart now. Once you get that in range, make sure the trailer is parallel to the ground and then drive on a scale to get all the axle weights. Make sure you haven't exceeded the axle ratings on the truck.
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Old 08-11-2014, 10:52 AM   #370
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Would it change the equation to know that these are 600# bars? I am a bit concerned that I should go to the 1000# bars for my combination.

Also, here is a photo of the washers. Looks like three. The dealer (who I trust highly) did the install. Still want to verify the reasonableness of that trust.
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:08 AM   #371
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Did the dealer have heavier bars?
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:38 AM   #372
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Yes. But they specifically recommended the 600# bars. Since I've been home and have read about it, I am having second thoughts.
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:39 AM   #373
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I think the dealer earned some mistrust here.

Here is the hitch selector page from the Equal-I-Zer website.

Hitch Sizes
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:48 AM   #374
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My F-150 sits unloaded with the rear higher than the front. The front axle is much closer to its weight limit than the rear. I wonder about the advisability of having front and rear compress the same amount. While it depends on the spring constants of the front and rear suspension, I'd think I would want the rear to compress more than the front.

As others on this thread and other threads have pointed out, the only way to know for sure is to get it weighed. I'd think the ideal solution would be to have the TT and TV both level, with at least as much weight on the front axle as when unloaded, maybe a little more. Clearly, at least in my case, there is going to be a lot more weight added to the rear axle.

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Old 08-11-2014, 11:55 AM   #375
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In my view not putting some trailer weight on the rear axle is a mistake, especially on a pickup truck.
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:59 AM   #376
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My AS dealer set me up with a Equalizer with 1000lb bars and put 4 washers in the head. I've added an Arvika bike rack with 2 bikes. I tow with a 2010 Tundra 2wd double cab with tonneau cover. I just carry lawn chairs, O'Grill BBQ and a couple of plastic bins with leveling blocks. I also use the bracket jackets on the L brackets.
I would like to see what its like with 5 washers but don't have the tools to do the job. Hitch weight is around or close to 1200lbs. 2008 Classic 25fb.
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Old 08-11-2014, 02:38 PM   #377
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Yes. But they specifically recommended the 600# bars. Since I've been home and have read about it, I am having second thoughts.
Scott,
If you were to call AS customer service, they will tell you 1000 lb. bars.
If you call Equalizer, they will say 1000 lb. bars.

A few here will say go with light to give the trailer a light ride. I suggest one should be more concerned with front axle load, weight distribution and the general topic of vehicle dynamics and capacities vs. opinions on light ride.

Your trailer likely will push the scales to 850 or 900 lbs. on the tongue weight. You will note from Ford that the hitch receiver is rated for 1000 lbs with proper weight distribution.

So with what Airstream, Equalizer, and Ford says, I personally would go with the 1000 lb bars. BTW, I don't remember if the hitch head changes between 600 and 1000. But a call to Equalizer will answer that quickly.

Lastly follow Equalizer's installation instructions in terms of measurements and you will get it close enough to go to the scales. Measurements and scales are way better than opinions.
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Old 08-11-2014, 02:56 PM   #378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomzstream View Post
So I measured the height of the hitch ball this morning with the truck pretty much unloaded but in its "load leveled" position and it is 23 inches to the top of the ball. Height to the top of the receiver is 18 inches. The Ball height seems a bit too high to me. I've attached a photo of the hitch showing the inverted shank.

If the specs for an 2007 AS Safari 23 ft are correct, tongue height is more like 18 inches. I believe this shank needs to be reversed and the ball lowered.

Your thoughts?
I think that you are on the right track ... set your "load leveled" ball height as specified by AS for your trailer via stinger reversal / manipulation of the cross bolt mounting and then use a combination of washers and L-bracket positioning to equalize the load as much as possible. The EQ site and manual are very clear on the before and after measurements for wheel wells, but I would also check when finished the AS frame to ground measurements to make sure that it is truly parallel to the roadway - not necessarily level, however. The goal for the load bars is to also have them as parallel as possible to the trailer frame...this took me much fiddling/disassembling the the washers and L-bracket to accomplish but now, well worth the hours of effort. The best my local dealers could do was get the trailer relatively level on a flat surface...not sure that he'd ever even thoroughly read the manual!

The EQ site will suggest heavier bars than you might actually need...at least according to (IIRC Andy's) research. We started with the 1000# bars for a FC20 and have used them on both of our EB25s. However, to reduce the stress transferred to the trailer A-frame / soften the AS ride just a bit, I have systematically machined off a bit at the corners on my load bars (approximating ~800# bars) ... now just perfect for me. We thought that the 600# would be a bit light for our then TV (F150) AS combo.. If you search, I posted detailed instruction on here for the bar mods.

Of course, YMMV, but I rarely need to adjust the L-bracket positioning due to trailer load ... water, food, or baggage ... but can feel just a bit of difference (possibly needing to move the brackets down one hole) when loading the motorcycle not quite over the trailer axles.
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