Equal-i-zer Hitch Thread.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Originally Posted by kscherzi

The one off your Lincoln not working?

Hi, the receiver is higher on the F-150; Due to scraping, I cut the last hole off of the one on the Lincoln.

[mefly2]

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, the receiver is higher on the F-150; Due to scraping, I cut the last hole off of the one on the Lincoln.

I did the same .... took me forever as I didn't want to torch it off.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, Due to scraping, I cut the last hole off of the one on the Lincoln.

Originally Posted by mefly2

I did the same .... took me forever as I didn't want to torch it off.

Hi, I used a pneumatic cut-off tool; It still took a long time to do. [I took my stuff to the dealership so I could use their air. My home compressor kept running out of breath] The receiver on my F-150 is about 4"s higher than the Lincoln, so even if I didn't cut the last hole off, the shank wouldn't work.

[Rich W]

I don't see how to adjust my L brackets any higher. I'm thinking maybe the link plates can be reversed to raise the L bracket.

The outer link plate has a welded box on it and the L bracket slides up. In the picture you can see that the L bracket is as high as it will go, but the trailer and SUV aren't quite level.

I'd like to raise the hitch ball so I have more clearance to avoid ground strikes and so I can unhitch easier. If I raise the ball that reduces the pressure on the spring arms, so the L bracket needs to be higher also

Advice would be appreciated.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Originally Posted by richw46

I don't see how to adjust my L brackets any higher. I'm thinking maybe the link plates can be reversed to raise the L bracket.

The outer link plate has a welded box on it and the L bracket slides up. In the picture you can see that the L bracket is as high as it will go, but the trailer and SUV aren't quite level.

I'd like to raise the hitch ball so I have more clearance to avoid ground strikes and so I can unhitch easier. If I raise the ball that reduces the pressure on the spring arms, so the L bracket needs to be higher also

Advice would be appreciated.

Hi, go back to page #1 and post #13 to see how my brackets are mounted. If everything is level, and you are still scraping, you might cut the bottom/un-used section of the shank off. That is what I did to mine.

[subfan1]

How many washers are you using?


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[Rich W]

I have 6 washers but adding a washer won't raise the hitch head. Raising the head on the shank another hole reduces the effectiveness of the spring arms. Right now, it's so low on the shank that it strikes the ground if there much of an angle, like when I back out of the driveway, even without the AS.

I think the outside link plate, the one with the welded box instead of being flat like the newer versions, is the problem. I'm just not sure if I can flip that around so the welded box is at the top instead of the bottom or not. I think that would solve the problem. The new rigs don't have that box, just a flat plate. It can be top or bottom mounted. Here's an image of the current link plates.

[mefly2]

It appears that you are not running the AS level ... what is the distance from ball to ground on the TV when you are unhitched? I don't know the specs for your specific 23' AS, but a general rule is that the TV ball to ground distance should be slightly higher than the AS coupler to ground * when the AS is level and not hitched. Set that properly first and see where you go from there with regard to the EQ settings. Six washers is a good starting point, but you might need to add one to get EQ set properly, if that won't get you to a level AS, then go ahead and reverse the bracket on the tongue and raise the "L" to the next higher position than it is now.

When all is said and done, your trailer should be (nearly) level and the spring bars parallel to the ground ... adjusted by # washers / L-bracket positioning (with proper WD on both the TV and AS). You have already figured out that there is an inverse relationship between washer# and L-bracket height. As for hitting the ground with the shank while unladen - unless you have an extra long / drop shank (usually needed on TV with high receivers like 3/4 T pickups), you should not need to chop it... also check that your suspension is adequate on the TV. Is it possible that the suspension has gone soft? You should really have no problem getting this set up properly - sometimes, it takes patience or experience ... sometimes, both !

[KJRitchie]

Ideally you need to adjust the hitch ball height with the TV and trailer on a level surface, then add washers to get enough head angle to impart weight distribution to the front axle when the bars are attached and have the L brackets set so the bars are parallel to the frame.

Raising the L brackets is a short term solution if you find you need more weight distribution out on the road.

Getting the large shank bolts off and back on with the correct torque is a grunt. I used a breaker bar with the handle of a floor jack to add leverage. My torque wrench only goes to 250ft/pds so when I tightened everything back up I applied more force using the breaker bar/floor jack handle to tighten further hoping to be around the 320ft/pds required for the shank bolts.

Kelvin

[Al and Missy]

Richw46:
To answer your original question, you can reverse the plates to put the box higher.

However, I'd strongly suggest you replace your frame mount brackets with the new version depicted in the diagram you posted last. In the picture of your hitch the L-bracket is held in place ONLY with the square head bolt. Once when I checked the hitch at a stop that bolt was loose. My original owner added a bolt and locknut in one of the other holes to increase the security of the mounting, and I think that is what kept mine from coming apart on the road. Also the new bracket set gives more flexibility of adjustment. At least it did in my case with the additional bolt. If you call equalizer they will tell you exactly what you need to make the conversion. I think I re-used my original L-brackets and inside backing plates and only had to order the new outer backing plates, but I'm not sure.

[Al and Missy]

I just thought I'd post something that I noticed on my last two trips. What I have seen on here as a justification for sway control is that the pressure wave in front of vehicles like large trucks or semis approaching from the rear pushed the rear of the trailer to the right. The trailer/truck system pivots at the hitch and pushes the front of the truck to the right. The driver counteracts that with steering to the left and when the pressure wave passes the truck steers even more to the left. Correcting back to the right can start a sway process.

With my Equalizer there is no noticeable push to the right when semis approach. Only when the pressure wave gets to the middle of the rig do I feel anything and it is a very small twitch to the left. It is about the same as I notice with just the truck and no trailer. I'll correct for it just as I do when I'm driving without the trailer.

Al

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by mefly2

It appears that you are not running the AS level ... what is the distance from ball to ground on the TV when you are unhitched?

I agree, the hitch is too low but when I raised it I couldn't get the tension on the spring arms, even with adding more washers. I've towed it a couple hundred miles on I-75 and it handles well but I want to get the distribution right. I needed to get the L bracket higher if I raise the hitch. I don't recall off hand what the ball height is, I know it's a little low.

Originally Posted by mefly2

. Set that properly first and see where you go from there with regard to the EQ settings. Six washers is a good starting point, but you might need to add one to get EQ set properly, if that won't get you to a level AS, then go ahead and reverse the bracket on the tongue and raise the "L" to the next higher position than it is now

I know the distribution right now is close, but could be better. That's all the adjustment I can get out of the washers (installation says 6 max I think) and the L Bracket is as high as it will go. Flipping the link plate is what I need to do, then raise the hitch height. I just wasn't sure if I could flip it.

Equalizer responded to my query and said it was OK to flip them so that's what I'm going to do next week. We're heading south and it will be much easier to work in 60-70 than in 10-27. We'll be down in Florida for a month. Looking forward to it.

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

Ideally you need to adjust the hitch ball height with the TV and trailer on a level surface, then add washers to get enough head angle to impart weight distribution to the front axle when the bars are attached and have the L brackets set so the bars are parallel to the frame.

Raising the L brackets is a short term solution if you find you need more weight distribution out on the road.

Getting the large shank bolts off and back on with the correct torque is a grunt. I used a breaker bar with the handle of a floor jack to add leverage. My torque wrench only goes to 250ft/pds so when I tightened everything back up I applied more force using the breaker bar/floor jack handle to tighten further hoping to be around the 320ft/pds required for the shank bolts.

Kelvin

Hi Kelvin, thanks for your response.

Those bolts are definitely a pain. Oddly enough, when I brought her home early last year, that was one of the first things I checked. I was able to remove the bolts with almost no effort at all. I went down to Harbor Freight and got a nice long (36"?) breaker bar. Every trip I check that, although I don't have a torque wrench that goes that high. I put that big breaker on it and I doubt that I'm getting 320 but it's over 200 for sure.

I've tried adjusting the hitch ball height but if I raise it, no matter how many washers, it's still not enough.

Unloaded, in the garage I get these readings:
Front - 33.5"
Rear - 36"

Put the trailer on, no WD I get these readings:
Front - 34.75"
Rear - 33.5"

Trailer on, add WD (road ready)
Front - 34.25"
Rear - 34"

Again, biggest issue is getting the A-Frame stand on or off and that it's just not sitting quite right. Raising the hitch head another rung or two will fix the problems but I don't think adding another washer is going to make the WD work out better. I think I can go to 7 washers and I have 1 left. It's been cold here in KY but I'll have some time to tinker with it next week.

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

Richw46:
To answer your original question, you can reverse the plates to put the box higher.
However, I'd strongly suggest you replace your frame mount brackets with the new version depicted in the diagram you posted last.

Hi Al, thanks for the reply and I think you're right, especially after your own experience. I'll order a replacement when we return. I want to check the box of "extras" the PO left for me. I remember a couple of brackets but I think they're the inside and not the outside.

[kscherzi]

I was wondering, have your Equalizer hitch's been loosening up over time? Seems mine has. I bought it new almost two years ago and have about 5,000 miles on it. I set up per the instructions, starting with 4, then 5, then 6 washers. The weight distribution bars are level to the ground. At 6 washers everything looked great, and CAT scales looked fine. To hitch I would attach ball then raise jack all the way up, then the bars would just barely slide neatly onto the L brackets.

Time goes by and I notice some slop in the weight distribution bars, don't have to raise jack so high and vehicle not so level anymore. So I add a 7'th washer, all is well again. More time goes by and things seem to start to revert so I add a 8'th washer. Since I only have 6 nice Equalizer gold washers I added in two plain washers, after bending and squishing probably equal 1.5 washers.

Regardless, now I raise the jack up all the way and it hitches same and when it just had 6 washers. The bar when in the hitch head sure have a lot of slop, maybe 2" up and down when just hanging there (prior to sliding onto L bracket). I've dissembled, cleaned, and re-greased the hitch head several times. There is certainly some rubbing wear internal to the hitch head and on the bolts that secure the box shaped parts to the hitch heads, but nothing outrageous.

To summarize, is what I'm experiencing just normal break-in?

[KJRitchie]

Are you sure the shank bolts are tight enough and the head isn't slipping? Also the bar pivots on the head are they torqued up, I think 45 ft/lb. If nothing is moving I can't see how anything should change over time unless the bars are loosing their tension.

Kelvin

[GCinSC2]

Kelvin,

I haven't read the whole thread so if previously mentioned just disregard.

I have an Equal I Zer and here's my issue with the bar sockets. It relies on metal to metal friction. So turn after turn big torque forces are at work on the bar sockets pivoting in the head. Greased or not the gap opens up. Torque to specs is not going to replace the worn out and lost metal in the head. Take the bar sockets out and look at the wear. At least mine has it.

Metal on metal for friction based control leaves me a bit cold to the concept.

Gary

[Al and Missy]

Others have posted that the washers compress. This is not my experience. With the understanding that compression was likely or at least possible I ordered some new washers. I then measured the new and old with a micrometer and found no difference. I think it must be socket wear or bar distortion.

Al

[mefly2]

Originally Posted by richw46

...
I've tried adjusting the hitch ball height but if I raise it, no matter how many washers, it's still not enough.

Unloaded, in the garage I get these readings:
Front - 33.5"
Rear - 36"

Put the trailer on, no WD I get these readings:
Front - 34.75"
Rear - 33.5"

Trailer on, add WD (road ready)
Front - 34.25"
Rear - 34"

Again, biggest issue is getting the A-Frame stand on or off and that it's just not sitting quite right. ..

It seems like you should be able to get your front ground to wheel well measurement less than what is posted. Otherwise, you will be blinding oncoming traffic while driving after dark arrives. It appears - to me at least - that you need to transfer more weight to the front of your truck ... what load bars do you have??
I would advise you that if you don't start with your ball at the proper height on the unladen TV, then all of the rest of the adjustment is moot.
Level your trailer by measuring the distance from the ground to the frame both front and rear ... adjust your camper jack so that the two measurements are equal; that does NOT have to be on level ground.

Then measure the distance from the ground to the inside of the coupler "socket". Add ~1" to that measurement and that should be the ~ top of your ball when the hitch is inserted in to the receiver. Adjust the position of the hitch (as much as the horizontal holes will permit) on the shank until you have that approximate measurement ... go from there with adjusting the W/D - with the goal of adding or subtracting washers until you get the load arms properly positioned so that they are parallel to the frame of the trailer tongue ... again, this does NOT have to be on level ground - just keep the TV and AS on the same plane.

The moving of the "L"-brackets / load bar positioning on the AS a-frame is for fine tuning your W/D as the loads change in the AS ... fine tuning is the important term here.

[Rich W]

I really appreciate the help from everyone. I want to get this thing right. The trailer tows quite well as is, but I want the adjustments to be correct.

Originally Posted by mefly2

It seems like you should be able to get your front ground to wheel well measurement less than what is posted. Otherwise, you will be blinding oncoming traffic while driving after dark arrives. It appears - to me at least - that you need to transfer more weight to the front of your truck ... what load bars do you have??

I agree, the nose is a little high and I want to add more weight to the front axle. The problem was that the L brackets were as high as I could get them. Trailer documentation says it has an 18" ball height. The trailer was slightly nose down as well as the rear axle carrying too much weight. I've checked all my documentation and I find the Equalizer book but there is no check mark by the particular model. Since the maximum for the trailer is 4700 lbs. I'm guessing it has 6,000 lb. bars.

Originally Posted by mefly2

I would advise you that if you don't start with your ball at the proper height on the unladen TV, then all of the rest of the adjustment is moot.
Level your trailer by measuring the distance from the ground to the frame both front and rear ... adjust your camper jack so that the two measurements are equal; that does NOT have to be on level ground.

Then measure the distance from the ground to the inside of the coupler "socket". Add ~1" to that measurement and that should be the ~ top of your ball when the hitch is inserted in to the receiver. Adjust the position of the hitch (as much as the horizontal holes will permit) on the shank until you have that approximate measurement ... go from there with adjusting the W/D - with the goal of adding or subtracting washers until you get the load arms properly positioned so that they are parallel to the frame of the trailer tongue ... again, this does NOT have to be on level ground - just keep the TV and AS on the same plane.

The moving of the "L"-brackets / load bar positioning on the AS a-frame is for fine tuning your W/D as the loads change in the AS ... fine tuning is the important term here.

I have an SUV, Equalizer manual says I should start with 4 washers, max of 8. I have 6 in there now. It says if I am nose up I should add washers or raise the L bracket. Since I had 6 I wanted to raise the L brackets. I have now flipped them so I can raise the bars. I also raised the hitch head on the shank. I'm at the top of the shank and the trailer seems to be sitting better. The nose is still up, more than before, I think. It's been raining but I can get out and measure today or tomorrow.

The trailer still handles well. We moved about 60 miles yesterday, high winds. Most tractor trailers had that air dam in front but other than a slight push, the AS tracked well and the TV did fine. I'll try to make adjustments today and we'll move again tomorrow.

Again, thanks for the help.