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Old 04-24-2014, 10:05 PM   #337
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Originally Posted by kscherzi View Post
Your tow vehicle will squat at least one inch in the rear after you get it all dialed in. Maybe up to two inches. I'll give you the same advise I got when I had the same question for my new trailer; don't over think it.
But isn't that defeating the purpose, I mean from what I have watched online and read here, the goal is to do the measurements without Sag. Starting with the shank too high is throwing the whole word distribution out of weight distribution. I know I am not expert but without a new shank I don't think I can fix the issue and utilize the product fully.
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Old 04-24-2014, 10:20 PM   #338
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Originally Posted by shaggy1970AS View Post
But isn't that defeating the purpose, I mean from what I have watched online and read here, the goal is to do the measurements without Sag. Starting with the shank too high is throwing the whole word distribution out of weight distribution. I know I am not expert but without a new shank I don't think I can fix the issue and utilize the product fully.
Not sure about all those videos. I think my 4x4 Ford holds the ball close to 19" high at the lowest setting of the regular, I think 4" drop, Equal-i-zer hitch. Hitched up I am able to return front axle back to unloaded height, the rear sags about a inch and an half or so which gets my Airstream pretty close to level.
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Old 04-27-2014, 05:44 PM   #339
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I also am not an expert shaggy. But the guys at Progress (manufacturer of the Equalizer) should be. Give them a call. They will help you through the whole thing.

I tend to overthink these things, but sometimes it just can't be perfect for every tow vehicle. I seem to recall the instructions being unclear where you measure the 17.75" from—top or base of the ball.

Gene
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Old 04-27-2014, 06:14 PM   #340
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If I remember correctly, the dimension is to the top of the ball. But the truck will, and should, squat when loaded. My truck has 1200# of payload but the front axle is way closer to its limit than the rear. So when that 1200# is put in the truck, mostly in the bed, the rear suspension will squat more. You just don't want it to squat so much as to take any load off the front.

The equalizer manual on line has a rule for estimating squat. Check that out, but I'll bet your truck will squat 1-2 inches in the rear and you will be fine.

Al
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:46 PM   #341
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I also am not an expert shaggy. But the guys at Progress (manufacturer of the Equalizer) should be. Give them a call. They will help you through the whole thing.

I tend to overthink these things, but sometimes it just can't be perfect for every tow vehicle. I seem to recall the instructions being unclear where you measure the 17.75" from—top or base of the ball.

Gene
Gene,
Did call t Jason at equalizer and we talked four times between yesterday and today and I think I have got the perfect setting for a 2013 F150 with a 27FB. Ended up using the bottom two holes in the shank with 5 Washers. To test and make sure its the optimum setting I went to a CAT truck scale and weighed the entire setup to verify.

Front Truck Axel 3460#'s
Back Truck Axel 3360#'s
Trailer both axels 5860#'s or 2930#'s on each axel.

The weight is pretty evenly distributed and I don't think its going to get much better than that, I guess if your a purest I can drop the L brackets one notch and try to get 50 pounds off the front.
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Old 05-03-2014, 03:09 PM   #342
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Shaggy, if the trailer is level, you are in good shape. That's the most important thing. Next, did you measure the height of front and rear wheel cutouts on the truck when unhitched? That's your reference point. The truck may not be level unloaded—that's often about style. You want to preserve that difference between cutouts once hitched and that's why you have to measure each wheel cutout height, Once you are hitched, they will both drop and they should drop equally, but if you are within an inch, you are ok. Third, are the bars level? This is the least important thing, but the more level the better.

Looks like you've shifted a lot to the front and that's ok if the axle is rated for it. You also need to check on tire pressure for the extra load. More air will raise the truck a little, but this shouldn't be significant. If you change the tires on the trailer to 16", you may have to adjust the hitch again, but I didn't when I changed tires because it made little difference. The Equalizer is pretty forgiving.

After you put some miles on this setup, you may find you need to add a washer or two. Even though they are pretty hard washers, they can compress slightly. If you don't have extra ones, buy grade 8 washers to add—they are the hardest ones you can easily find.

Gene
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Old 05-03-2014, 04:39 PM   #343
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Gene,
I measured the front and back before I started, the front 38.5 and back 39. All hitched up I am 38 and 38. The bars are not level though, in order to be level I would need to drop the L bracket one hole as I am already in the bottom hole on the shank and can't drop that any further.

Thoughts?
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Old 05-03-2014, 04:53 PM   #344
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You're fine shaggy. I couldn't get my bars very close to level, but so long as the trailer was level and the truck pretty much ok (around 1/2" off perfect), that was the best I could do. I spent hours in the sun on a 90˚ day trying all sorts of combinations and settled the last one. After a couple of hours taking the hitch head on and off repeatedly, it felt liked it weighed 100 lbs.

Now go camping.

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Old 05-13-2014, 11:15 PM   #345
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Ok ... I am sure there are hundreds of posts in this thread on this ... but can't find a specific one. So ...

My Equal-i-zer connectors to the frame rotate 5 or 6 degrees forward (slip) almost every trip now. I re-align and re-tighten them each time with a torque wrench, but they still move. It appears to happen when I back the trailer off of a level surface up a slight incline (like into a campsite). Or when leaving a gas station going across a deep curb depression. My rig is a newer Toyota Tundra with the small 16 Bambi.

Should I weld them to the frame? Would that create more stress on the AS frame then I should? If so, should I just deal with the slip? Or do some sort of drilled anchor point(s) that I read a few of you do? Would prefer not to weld them if I ever switch hitches or get a bigger trailer. But wondering your thoughts.

Thanks!
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Old 05-14-2014, 03:10 PM   #346
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I believe Progress Mfr. told me to tighten them to 50 lbs. I made them a little tighter and they haven't slipped. But if you haven't lowered the propane line on one side, the plates will surely bend, so lower the line before you go any further (if you haven't).

If they still slip, try the solutions discussed in the 300+ posts for that.

I would not weld them—you may want a different hitch someday, or may need to replace them if something breaks, or, as you said, buy a heavier trailer.

Gene
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Old 05-23-2014, 10:53 AM   #347
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adjust

Well, two days to read this thread. Information overload, Head still spinning (counter-clockwise).
Picking up a new International 28' Monday, trading in the S.O.B, but keeping my Equalizer.
I have the 1000# bars so I think it maybe OK with the 28'. Its quite a bit heavier than my S.O.B (EW 4200) and the 28'International is (EW 5923).
Going from 23' long up to the 28' long trailer. That, I will have to get use to.

So the propane line runs along the bottom of the frame and you have to be careful putting on the L-Brackets that you can pinch or the propane line could be nicked?
I'll watch that carefully. I wonder if I will have to install it since I'm not buying the hitch from the Airstream dealer? That's ok, I'll have my tools with me.
I have a good 12 hours to get back home, so I can adjust on the hitch all day long, on the way back, to see if I can get it set right. I think the only thing I had to do is lower the L brackets on the trailer when I went from a 1500 to 2500 D-Ram. This ought to be interesting.
Wish me luck
Thanks !
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Old 05-23-2014, 12:24 PM   #348
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I recently switched from a Dodge Ram half ton to a Jeep Commander. I always thought the Ram sat a little high in the rear. Turns out the Commander hitch height is about 23.5 inches (about 4 inches higher than the Ram). So..., I just ordered a 7" drop shank to level it out with my equalizer hitch.
It is so important to check things out well before your trip. I will never assume anything about hitch heights again! On my last trip, the trunnion bars were basicly useless.
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Old 08-06-2014, 10:56 AM   #349
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Great Info here. Had not really checked my WD since my initial setup by Safford in VA, but now that I have checked axle weights, I have real concerns.

First of all, my TV is a 2008 Escalade EXT which has auto level suspension. Best I can tell the receiver height is 17 inches. I have a 2007 23 ft Safari and the trailer weight is coming in at 4600 lbs with WD connected.

Here are my axle weights (loaded) before and after (unhitched and hitched with WD on):

Unhitched, but with hitch and bars in bed.
FRT: 3340
REAR: 3440

Hitched
FRT: 3080
REAR: 4340

My big concern is that I am probably a couple hundred over the rear axle weight restriction.

Obviously I am light in the front. This is after I moved the L bracket up a notch which got me 140 lbs up front. The L brackets have more room to go but right now are a bit tight coming off (even with trailer jack extended). I have 600lb bars and they look to be parallel with the frame.

My real concern though is that I am not sure why the tech installed the shank upside down. It sticks up to about the height of the ball (mounted in the bottom holes as seen inverted), and although it is mounted toward the bottom (inverted top), it appears to be incorrect per the manufacturer's shank selection tool. If installed as they suggest per the 17 inch receiver height and the 18 inch tongue height (per Airstream), I believe it would lower the ball somewhat.

BTW I have 7 washers (!) which gives plenty of angle. Before we get off on an air suspension tangent, I will say everything in the truck seems to be level with heights of fender wells OK. I am concerned that the air level compressor may be a bit overworked though. No real way to turn it off easily so I'd rather not disable.

Your thoughts?
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:03 AM   #350
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Originally Posted by Tomzstream View Post
Great Info here. Had not really checked my WD since my initial setup by Safford in VA, but now that I have checked axle weights, I have real concerns.

First of all, my TV is a 2008 Escalade EXT which has auto level suspension. Best I can tell the receiver height is 17 inches. I have a 2007 23 ft Safari and the trailer weight is coming in at 4600 lbs with WD connected.

Here are my axle weights (loaded) before and after (unhitched and hitched with WD on):

Unhitched, but with hitched and bars in bed.
FRT: 3340
REAR: 3440

Hitched
FRT: 3080
REAR: 4340

My big concern is that I am probably a couple hundred over the rear axle weight restriction.

Obviously I am light in the front. This is after I moved the L bracket up a notch which got me 140 lbs up front. The L brackets have more room to go but right now are a bit tight coming off (even with trailer jack extended). I have 600lb bars and they look to be parallel with the frame.

My real concern though is that I am not sure why the tech installed the shank upside down. It sticks up to about the height of the ball (mounted in the bottom holes as seen inverted), and although it is mounted toward the bottom (inverted top), it appears to be incorrect per the manufacturer's shank selection tool. If installed as they suggest per the 17 inch receiver height and the 18 inch tongue height (per Airstream), I believe it would lower the ball somewhat.

BTW I have 7 washers (!) which gives plenty of angle. Before we get off on an air suspension tangent, I will say everything in the truck seems to be level with heights of fender wells OK. I am concerned that the air level compressor may be a bit overworked though. No real way to turn it off easily so I'd rather not disable.

Your thoughts?
Your problem is your tow vehicle, which is defeating the purpose of the load equalizing hitch.

To correct the issue, you MUST defeat the automatic air adjusting. To do so, drop the air pressure to absolute minimum, so that the bags do not get pinched.

Then, and only then, can you PROPERLY shift weight.

Any automatic leveling system, progressively defeats the purpose of the torsion bars.

Andy
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