Equal-i-zer Hitch Thread.

[KJRitchie]

I noticed on the street side of my equalizer brackets the L bracket and the back clamp bracket have a slight bow to them. They must have been tweaked during the hitch release described above. What is the best way to straighten them or should I purchase new parts? I also discovered my old SnapOn torque wrench locking ring is stuck so I can't adjust the torque settings, its a glorified breaker bar now.

Kelvin

[m.hony]

Everyone's back plate is bowed. It is a design flaw by Equal-I-zer. The metal is too thin. Equal-I-zer's solution is to turn the plate around with the bow the other direction to straighten it. When I did that, the plate bowed the other direction. I thought the simplest solution might be to get Equal-I-zer to send me a couple more of those plates and double them up (maybe weld 2 together). The bolts are long enough. These plates really should be thicker or gusseted to keep them from bowing.

[m.hony]

If those back plates were thicker and would not bow, then we would have an easier time preventing the L-brackets from moving on the a-frame. If the plate would remain straight and contact the a-frame the entire length of the plate instead of just at the top and bottom when bowed, then it would be less likely to move on the a-frame.

[m.hony]

Another thing we could do is spacers along the bolts.

[m.hony]

I've come to the conclusion that Equal-i-zer just ain't the one.
Too bad I sold my EazLift.

[KJRitchie]

OK. Sounds good. Do they get bowed when torqued to the 70lbs as shown in the user manual? My brackets didn't seem to shift the 1 1/2 years I've owned my Equalizer. I just want to make sure it doesn't impede the operation of the hitch. You wonder why they don't make the plates all the same thickness. I may purchase two back plates and put them on.

Thanks

Kelvin

[m.hony]

Yep. and they still slide back and force on the trailer frame.
Equal-i-zer is sending me new inside link plates. I'm gonna try doubling them up (the bolts are long enough) to prevent them from bending.
It is my opinion that these inside link plates should have been thicker or gusseted to prevent bowing.
My L-brackets don't appear to have moved much lately like they used to. Maybe they got the a-frame sorts roughed up so they bite better.
Also, I threw out that 70 ft. lbs. thing and just git 'em sho nuff tight. At 70 ft. lbs. they walk all up and down the trailer frame.
Actually I've thrown all of Equal-i-zer's instructions out the window. 4 washers and the bars parallel = zero weight distribution for my rig. No, my hitch ain't bent. 6 washers and the bars tapered up toward the L-brackets = weight distribution and sway control for my rig. I know everybody ain't pullin' a 30 with a Tundra. Maybe those Equal-i-zer instructions/suggestions work perfectly with some rigs, but I'm havin' to go rogue/rebel and find out on my own what works best through trial and error.
Equal-i-zer says the bent hitch head is no big deal and will not affect safety.

[Antique Pedaler]

Originally Posted by m.hony

If those back plates were thicker and would not bow, then we would have an easier time preventing the L-brackets from moving on the a-frame. If the plate would remain straight and contact the a-frame the entire length of the plate instead of just at the top and bottom when bowed, then it would be less likely to move on the a-frame.

My 'L' brackets have been bent for 12 years on 4 different trailers with no ill affects. To stop them from moving on the frame I cut pieces of dry wall sanding screen to size to fit between the brackets and the frame then tightened 'em down. They never moved again.

[m.hony]

Call them up.
They will send you new inside link plates.
Actually calling isn't necessary. An email will do.

[m.hony]

It is still my opinion that the inside link plates should have been thicker or gusseted. Bent inside link plates may not hurt a thing, but straight ones look better to me.

[KJRitchie]

Good tip. I've got some of that drywall sanding screen somewhere. My 2008 Classic 25fb is a heavy weight too. I want to add one washer but need to get a deep socket 1 1/8". I hope I can budge the bolts. Since my hitch pin incident with the head dropping to the road and dragging a few feet on the bottom of the shank that must have tweaked my head so the washers are loose on the large rivet. With the power jack broken and waiting for a replacement I've borrowed a floor jack and some jack stands to get the trailer off the TV so I can work on the head bolts. I'll attempt this on the weekend. If I can't get the shank bolts off then its off to an RV shop.

Kelvin

Kelvin

[m.hony]

Reckon I'm gonna head on down to Ace Hardware an' git some o' dat dry wall sanding stuff y'all are talkin' 'bout.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by m.hony

Reckon I'm gonna head on down to Ace Hardware an' git some o' dat dry wall sanding stuff y'all are talkin' 'bout.

It also works well on the bottom of boards used as levelers. Keeps them from sliding on each other. I have some I used for 20 years and never slipped while backing on or been replaced!

[m.hony]

Or scooting away when the tire hits them?

[KJRitchie]

I ordered extra back plates and found new WD bar pins that don't require the cotter pins. Also requested in the notes section for them to throw in a couple of hitch head angle washers.
Socket Pins w/Thumb Clips : Equal-i-zer Hitch Store

I was able to bend my back plates a little straighter by pounding on them in my vise and on garage concrete floor with a heavy hand mallet.

Got my SnapOn torque wrench working again. A little machine oil helped.

Found some plaster/drywall sandpaper. As long as everything is off might as well repaint the parts.

Got to attack the hitch head bolts next. I need to pick up a 1 1/8" deep socket. Might as well pick up a breaker bar and some steel piping so I can be self sufficient for hitch maintenance.

Kelvin

[kscherzi]

Mine have not moved. I've got a welder so would place a small spot weld if needed.

[m.hony]

I have the L-pins with the flip-over latches, the Sway Bracket Jackets, and the weight bar to hitch head pins with the flip-over bracket. When I unhook I leave the weight bars sitting in the L-brackets- easy peasy-

[gypsydad]

Guess I am missing something...why not just get a BlueOx SwayPro... :-)

[m.hony]

I have seen a Blue Ox failure in real life. The clip that holds the weight bars in the hitch head breaks and the weight bar falls out.

[Al and Missy]

If you tighten the bolts too much without the spacers it bows the plates. I made the spacers out of copper pipe as someone on here suggested. I tow a Safari 25 and have had no bowing or slipping since i put the spacers on.

Al